Stitch and bitch thread #8. It’s all starting to unravel

[NutellaEllaElla]

Welcome back and welcome for the first time to any newbies. As we go back into autumn/winter mode, sewing days are more and more appealing as the wind gales outside. I enjoyed looking back over the last thread, there were so many beautiful patterns (so little time), such beautiful makes, that thread is an absolute goldmine for inspiration. Also such wisdom from you lovely lot! Thank you. I couldn't do it without you actually as no one around me sews and you have imparted such great advice, hints and tips.

@PickAChew
@kittykarate
@TragicMuse
@SBAM
@pastabest
@Jins
@Blackamericanonosugar
@CrimsonAlligator
@SleepingisanArt
@dubyalass
@Brefugee
@InMySpareTime
@Rosenspants
@rivercobbler
@Karatema
@bookbook
@Sewingdufus
@FletchingStraight
@SideWonder
@CarolynKnappShappy
@Chewbecca
@eldorado02
@PrincessofWellies
@123ZYX
@Storynanny1
@Tinuviel
@Wildernesstips
@Dellabob123
@florentini
@longpathtohappiness
@twobluechickens

There's no way you can compete on price with the likes of Primark, but I agree you can compete on quality.

However, my main reason for starting sewing was that I like particular shapes of clothes that aren't always in fashion - I'm short with a defined waist so when boxy clothes are in fashion, I can only find things in the shops that make me look like I'm wearing my mums clothes. With sewing I can make things in the shapes that suit me, in the colours and fabrics I choose - I'm sure I'm influenced by what's in fashion, but I'm not limited by it

It's quality and fit for me. No more baggy backsides and thigh wings because something that fits me round my waist is at least a size too big, elsewhere and still cuts in painfully because it's not high waisted enough for me. Room for my not even ample, any more, bust without being too big across the shoulders and back. And, if the stitching is shoddy, I've only go myself to blame and not someone in a factory expected to run up that seam dozens of times per hour.

Yes, quality, fit and choosing my own styles. Also, I do like a challenge and learning something new. I can't see the challenge ending with this, there's SO much to learn every time.

I have more hobbies than I have time and sewing is the most expensive by far! If I spend £15 on some sock yarn, that will keep me entertained for weeks. £15 of fabric on the other hand is gone in no time at all.

It is possible for sewing to be reasonably cost effective though. For example, I found this top a couple of weeks ago, which reminded me of the Olivia blouse. That pattern takes only 1.3 metres of fabric in my size, so even if I splash out and pay, say £15/metre, it comes to about £20. The original cost £50!

That gorgeous fabric could almost tempt me to buy instead of make, @CrimsonAlligator . Exactly my colours. Bonus points for not being polyester.

Obviously, I would have to send it back for only fitting me where it touches.

You should try photography 😁

By the way, celebrity sewing bee is back next month. I started a fred in telly addicts. BBC1 21st of December @ 9pm.
Kiell Smith-Bynoe will be presenting and the celebs taking part are: "punk icon Toyah Willcox, actor Kerry Godliman, comedian Jessica Knappett and actor Hammed Animashaun"

Ha, very true @NutellaEllaElla 😁

I know what you mean @PickAChew . I wish it was easier to find fabrics like that - patterned, but nothing too crazy and nice colours. Instead I’ve settled for some pretty wild fabric choices (for me) for my next Olivia blouses - one is an orange zig-zag, the other pink flowers on a black background. I’ve got my fingers crossed that they won’t look too garish in real life 😬

That sounds like in ideal group. I'm looking forward to it.

I love re-watching the Christmas special sewing bee did after the first series - just some of the contestants back to do some relaxed sewing with Patrick and May. It's got a lovely cosy feel to it

Well I’ve managed to find a presser foot and needle combo for this weird jersey and the patch pockets are on the back. Not my neatest work but they are on. I’ll hand sew them at the edges to keep them down. Front pockets complete so it’s long seams and waistband next. I’m not looking forward to stitching the elastic but I’ll manage somehow. I’m tempted to dig out the vintage singer

Finished!!!
Broke two sewing and one overlocker needle. Buttonholes were a disaster so put eyelets in which have disappeared into the waistband when I threaded the tie belt through. Managed to do some buttonholes by hand eventually.

However - the fit is perfect, they are comfortable and warm and DH says they look good so I’m classing it as a win. We’re off to York tomorrow for an event so they’ll see some good use round the town afterwards

3 broken needles? That really is the fabric from hell 😬

I’ve had a go at redrafting the popover placket on the Olivia blouse, but can’t quite get it to work. The original pattern has just two strips of fabric, completely interfaced which doesn’t give a particularly nice finish. Why add that much bulk to the seams?!

I’ve done a trial of my redrafted placket, but the sides don’t quite match. The difference is a bit too big to be down entirely to my shoddy sewing, but I can’t find a problem with the drafting itself. I guess that means I’ll have to do another test run and be ultra accurate, press everything multiple times etc etc. I must be on the right track though because even with the obvious error, it looks way better than the original “placket”.

Back from snowy, icy York and the trousers were a huge success in terms of warmth so I’m forgiving the fabric. I have no idea what it is or where it came from though

Trousers sound like a great success @Jins .

I've just finished making curtains and cushions for our sitting room. Nothing exotic, eyelet top. The sewing is easy it's the cutting out which is a pain.

Next job is to make a couple of floor cushions using up remnants from the curtain and cushion fabrics.

Another parcel of fabric arrived from Dalston Mills. Going to make a dress for DD2 and a shirt for DM. I must stop ordering fabric!

Today I've been making a Christmas hat for DD's flatmate. It just needs a name embroidering on it tomorrow once I've confirmed spelling.

@GnomeDePlume, I’m going to make it my new year resolution to reel in my spending on crafts, but have been making plenty of purchases in the meantime to prepare myself for that 😂

@InMySpareTime are you using a machine to embroider? Or are you planning to do it by hand?

I'll embroider the name by hand to match the family ones. It's just chain stitch, not too tricky.

@CrimsonAlligator I like your thinking!

I sew because I love the fabric that is available. There is no two ways about it, I'm fat. Making my own clothes gives me so much more choice in pattern and fabric.

I have an ongoing resolution to cut down on purchases but I really love a bargain which makes it harder. I’m working on destashing but it’s not gone too well this year. In fact my sewing output has been pretty dire.

Not sewn anything for ages, but just wanted to let you know that there are some great offers on the Foldline website with their 12 days of Christmas if you are a newsletter subscriber. There have been two free patterns so far: the Merchant & Mills Sunday Robe, and today is Paper Theory LB Pullover.

Great tip. Thanks @Wildernesstips. I’ve just signed up and counting my blessings that I haven’t missed a pattern I would have liked

I finished my Frida blouse and am really pleased with it, it's nice and cosy too ((did it in a cotton twill that has a slightly brushed feel). Am wearing entirely handmade apart from underwear today which feels great.

I just interface the inside layers, @CrimsonAlligator as I agree it gives a nicer, less bulky finish and looks better after repeated washing if the interfacing isn't attached to the public facing side.

The Atlas blouse I made had quite a complex half placket with lots of folds and I'm glad I gave that a dry run, too, as despite careful measuring, folding over a straight edge and everything, that one also didn't quite fit. I just added 5mm extra seam allowance to the topmost later and that gave me the wiggle room I needed to make sure that nothing was peaking out. The dry run also meant I had something to refer to as I did the real thing (I hadn't stitched it down, obviously)

I'm going to need a dry run of the neck binding for this blouse I'm making as the instructions are sparse (Merchant & Mills sparse rather than Style Arc sparse) and would be no clearer in English than French and the diagrams are terrible. 😵‍💫 I think I understand what it wants me to do (basically trapping the ends within the button bands) but my brain isn't having any of it. I will end up dreaming about this until I do it.

I dropped off the thread for a bit, mostly because I've done so little sewing recently.

There's a post gone up on social media by one of the big indie pattern companies seeking plus size models for their women's wear.

Interestingly they have included transwomen in that.

I'm happy for anyone to dress how they like but as a woman on the curvier side I'm not sure drafting for plus size women is compatible within the same pattern with drafting for transwomen who are probably going to have narrower hips etc.

Surely they would be better off specifically drafting a block for transwomen if that is an option they want to look at?

A surprising decision from a company that has previously championed sewing patterns for plus sized female bodies in their full bottomed, wide hipped bosomly glory!

I think there is probably a huge market out there for womens clothing for a natal male body, but feels a bit insulting to lump that in with plus size patterns designed for women!

I think the boxy clothes trend serves a similar purpose but I hate it, I absolutely do not sew for poorly fitting, unflattering garments. (That might happen anyway but it's not my intention!).

I see A LOT of men posting photos of themselves wearing awful women's clothes on some Facebook sewing groups too.