Stitch and bitch thread #6. What a yoke!

[NutellaEllaElla]

The other thread is so painfully slow so lets hope a shiny new one will run a smoothly as a well behaved sewing machine. Pin your places here my lovely stitchers

Marnie had that lovely stitch detail even if, IMO, the garment itself is hideous

I'm glad it's not just me who thought that. Way too much going on, as a whole it looked like a hot mess, but the stitch details are beautiful.

Well, i have never really rated TATB stuff. Ive helped a friend who thought the patterns would be simple enough to learn on and I wasn’t impressed with details instructions cut or fit. I was told I was sneering in another sewing thread but really I’m not. I just don’t like them and I don’t think they’re particularly well-drafted. In my experience obviously. I had to reconstruct a skirt for this friend, when actually a good old fashioned Simplicity pattern would have done the trick.

But I remember my supposed “expert” sewing teacher at school (yes old enough to have been in sex-segregated classes - the boys did woodwork) didn’t know about matching patterns or ensuring the nap on velvet and corduroy all went the same way. She had us sewing a skirt with the corduroy going at angles. It was not a design feature just lack of knowledge.

But I guess it’s just what you’re used to - I learned to sew as a teenager doing complicated Vogue patterns because the explanations are so good.

I have never bought any TATBs patterns. Just not my thing. The patterns that I would recommend for learning to sew are the Oliver+S patterns for children clothes. I remember sewing this pattern 15 years ago, I was a beginner seamstress but got a great result due to the thorough instructions: https://oliverands.com/shop/digital-sunday-brunch-jacket-a-line-skirt-sewing-pattern.html

Working through a few of these patterns helps you learn good technique.

Now I sew a lot out of Burda magazine and some Vogue patterns. I used to like Hot Patterns, but they are expensive.

I think in general - if you 'speak' vogue patterns and have taken your lumps early, you can manage with any of the big pattern companies. I struggle with some of the big pattern companies as I find their instructions a little terse, a bit like the technical challenges in great british bake off, as they assume a bit more sewing knowledge than I have. We got one term of sewing at school, and with only 3 machines to a class, not a lot of time on the machines. I don't find the instructions on TatB too bad to follow, but I did find some mistakes in one where it didn't ask you to cut out enough pieces. I reported it back to them and they did send me a free pattern as a thank you. So maybe their quality control/testing isn't great.

My favourite patterns are Jalie because they seem to balance the terse/detailed quite well.

I'm making up a deer and die pattern and the instructions aren't always that great. I'm working on attaching the lining and the instruction for attaching the sleeve ends has the bottom of the lining partially attached, both in the illustration and in writing but attaching the lining at the bottom is actually the next step.

The order is correct in the sewalong on their blog but they've used dark fabric for that and it's impossible to see what is going on, in places.

I did find a blogger who had made a live video sewalong but she made such a hash of it that I really hope that no one tries to follow her along.

Deer and doe.

Inept blogger also used dark fabric.

Oh god I hate sew alongs that use dark fabrics or fabrics that look exactly the same right/wrong side. I love a sewalong that is done in cheap printed material where it's really obvious which side they are working on.

I find lots of interesting tips and hacks on Pinterest

My mother made all her and our clothes throughout my childhood and teens. The although I loooonged for a pair of bought jeans I realise what a useful and ENJOYABLE skill I sort-of absorbed without realising.

Sp I learnt how to prepare fabric for cutting, what the grain is, how to do various seams, how to cut out a fabric with a nap how to measure up, put in a zi and so on.

It seems to me there’s a need for that sort of basic guidance for people learning to sew, and also then proper guidance (not amateur bloggers) for moving from basic sewing to more advanced stuff I’d class myself as retry advanced but I don’t have the patience for couture style stuff that ClaireSchaffer does, for example. Maybe when I’m retired.

Although I love reading blogs - mostly US based sewers who makeChanel style jackets. One day I’ll try!

i had sewing lessons at school but by then (from 1st form, so age 11 - junior school was all hand sewn felt things and cross-stitch samplers- boys and girls could do it if they wanted which was progressive for the early-mid 70s. But only boys could do woodwork - so my dad taught me that)

The first thing we were to sew was a elasticated skirt which was 2 rectangles sewn at the side, fold over the top for the elastic and hemmed. At that stage i was making, at home, a bishop sleeved shirt with a large rounded-point collar and that thing where the buttons are behind a flap of fabric (what is that called?) and i didn't hide my disdain for the skirt enough so the teacher always gave me a failing grade and complained to my mum. Who sent me to school on the next uniform free day in the shirt and a pair of jeans (with complicated pockets and tool holders etc) that she'd made. But by then I'd changed to cookery. which i hated.

I find the Sew Over It instructions generally very good. Unfortunately the fit clearly isn't designed for me which adds complexity.

I like the Waves and Wild patterns for making things for DS for easy to follow instructions. I haven't made anything of theirs for myself yet. Young boys are much easier to fit on that adult women

I really rate waves and wild for clear instructions. Also twig and tale, they’re incredibly thorough.

One Waves and Wild pattern did have me scratching my head though when I was instructed to turn something over “by a scant 10mm then by a further generous 10mm” 😂

I was at senior school in the 00s, sewing was for everyone but sadly was universally useless. We did some tie dye and made a tote bag. To be fair cookery was also useless, our first project was make a sandwich. Woodwork was ok though, I still have a piece of furniture I made.

I used to love reading sewing blogs, I think Instagram somewhat killed that off.

It's just a covered button placket, @Brefugee !

I grew up in the 70s wearing home made clothes - and getting shouted at for finding a nice fresh bit of tarmac to ruin them with😶😶Making things was just a normal part of family life.

There are some excellent resources online, among all the dross, for people taking up sewing who don't have the benefit of it being a normal thing to do that they have grown up with but I think the thing that is most overlooked is pressing. Not far behind that are the hand finishing skills that make a garment look more professional. I see so many hanging threads, even in supposedly professional shoots. My Pfaff has a thread cutter but I'm not inclined to use it for anything likely to show because I'd rather tidy off the ends, myself.

thanks @PickAChew (great name - I'll have one of the Milk Chews we used to have in my school tuck shop) my brain went completely blank there.

i never use the thread cutter unless it's a seam that is going to be right inside something. Not least because when i start a seam i hold onto the threads coming out of the bobbin/needle to help stop the birds-nest forming underneath. If you use the thread cutter you can't do that.

Yes, that's one of the things I dislike about it, @Brefugee !

I think the thing that is most overlooked is pressing

Yes, @PickAChew ! My iron & ironing board are set up right next to my machine & overlocker, so I just swing around on my chair from one to the other.

I think that's why I like working with linen and wool, because they are so satisfying to press out with steam and an old tea towel.

I learned on big 4 patterns (lots of them vintage) so indie patterns with their extensive instructions and sewalong videos are a revelation! Though Style Arc are pretty sparse.

I don't recall doing much if any sewing at school. We did home economics which definitely involved tie dye. I did learn how to make multiple types of pastry though, a skill I still use today!

I find that the more expensive Vogue Designer patterns have really detailed instructions. Butterick or Burda not so much.

Sewing lessons at my school were pretty good. The only issue I had was that the first project was making a denim A line skirt which wasn’t a great choice of fabric or design for us fashion conscious 14 year olds

I’d learned most of my basic sewing from Mum. I still remember her trying to get me to choose Butterick or Simplicity patterns rather than New Look or even worse, Maudella 🤣

I prefer indie patterns nowadays as they are closer to modern proportions. Speaking of which I’ve made the dart alterations and toiled for the 4th time 😡. Pattern pieces are all cut out ready to go tomorrow and hopefully wear on Saturday

Has anyone here used Merchant & Mills patterns? I’ve had my head turned by these trousers, but am just wondering what their patterns are like.

I really appreciate the insanity of photographing black trousers against a black background. I’m sure it was intentional and supposed to look super artsy...😂

Although actually, it did make me look twice, so may be they’re on to something 🤔

I've made a few, @CrimsonAlligator and have a few more on my to do list.

They go together pretty well and the instructions are on the brief side but I've never found them ambiguous. Tops tend to have lots of ease but the measurements are there without you having to hunt for them.

And they usually have plenty if photos and a video on their website!

Sewing lessons at school almost managed to put me off for life!

In the Juniors we had to embroider a tea cloth, spent most of the year queuing to get my needle threaded. When took it home to be ironed and my mother completely redid it before the exhibition. Meanwhile th boys got to do art!

Then at Secondary we had old Singers to sew on, but no explanation or manuals. We also had to sew a wrap over skirt, again with no instruction!

Motherhood got me sewing properly. I prefer Indie patterns, Waves and Wild got me sewing when they were still Made By Jack’s Mum, a Beachcomber Tee-shirt. 5 years on I’m still a W&W devotee, not convinced by their latest pattern release today, the only pattern of theirs that I was less successful with was joggers for me.

As for TATB, I’m not that keen, I don’t think they’re properly designed for curvy women. (More that they’re scaled up and so not the most flattering.)

Just discovered the free patterns at Fabrics Store - not sure where they’re based but they have pretty good size inclusivity and a great selection. Ignore the $45 ones - the majority are free, you just need to sign up your email address for access.

https://fabrics-store.com/sewing-patterns

@jins you must have the patience of a saint! I can't picture myself toiling away 4 times!

I did a tiny bit of hand sewing at Saturday school. I think I spent a whole term chatting making a small guinea pig teddy. I wasn't remotely interested in hand sewing and I still have a strong aversion to this day. Shame cos I obviously love machine sewing now and surely lots of tween girls' interest could have been captured by creating their own clothes.

I'm not a fan of the current boxy clothing fashion to be honest, none of the TATB patterns appeal to me. I like the big 4, they're definitely a puzzle and you learn a lot doing them.