Stitch and bitch thread #3 Sewing is harder than it seams

[NutellaEllaElla]

And i'm very glad to have you clever sewists to selvedge what's left of my dignity .

It's so strange to me that Burda don't include seam allowances, how are you supposed to cut it out properly without spending loads of time measuring and re drawing?

The only patterns I have that don't have seam allowances are in Sew Your Own Activewear - so I'm a whole lot less precise about the process, just trace off the pieces as is and add a 1/4 inch allowance by eye as I cut out. Wouldn't go for that loosey goosey approach on a woven fabric, if I go a bit wrong with a pair of leggings the stretch will save me.

i have to have NSA!!! written in big letters on my pattern pieces so I remember though, otherwise I'll sleepwalk into cutting out without...

All the patterns I’ve used including the burda paper patterns have seam allowances. I’ve downloaded a couple that don’t but I’ve saved them in a NSA folder.

I intended to sew myself a couple of simple tops this weekend but ended up being creative in cutting down FILs trousers to shorts for DH and adding cargo pockets. Patch pockets are a lot easier before the seams have been sewn so I had to dig out the best weapon in my armoury - the double sided wash away tape.

Has anyone else had problems with sewing children’s clothes in cotton jersey and then the colours wash out , the seams and knees are full of holes? Leggings mostly obvs, but I’m so fed up with how quickly they look like rags.

I have to come up with a plan to alter my husband's triathlon suit. The problem is that he's a bit too tall for it, so it basically catches around his arms. It's basically a vest shaped upper, with a long zip down the front, joined to some cycle shorts.

My options are

a) reshape the arm holes so they are deeper cut, and then bind with fold over elastic

or

b) open at the shoulder seams and insert a piece of lycra into the shoulders to make it a bit more relaxed.

It was only an Aldi special, so if it goes wrong it's not the end of the world.

I would go for deeper armholes and foe as that’s as easy fix.

I'd go with opening the shoulder seams 😂

It’s likely to allow more shoulder movement (and just the mention of FOE gives me shivers)

I'm tempted to go shoulder seams, because what happens if the armscrye is holding the suit a bit lower, and if I release that tension it gives him a giant wedgie? This is the problem with a 6ft3/75kg husband, his clothes only ever fit him in one dimension!

My DH is 6’4” and about 85kg. It’s rare to get anything to fit particularly well but sportswear is another problem entirely. Shoulder adjustment would be the safest if it fits everywhere else

Work is really getting in the way of sewing for me at the moment 🤣
Now I've managed to brave cutting the pretty fabric, I'm chomping at the bit to get going more. I still have more cutting to do and I told my mum I'd make one for her as well so I need to cut out her fabric too. She's really similar measurements to me but very different shape at the same time so I don't know how that's going to work out but I said I'd give it a go!

Tentatively dipping back into this thread as I'm inspired by you all. I haven't touched my sewing machine in many months following a bereavement but have at last been tempted by rediscovering a couple of Tessuti patterns I bought a few years ago and never did anything with (the Eva dress and Helga shirt ).

I sent the PDFs off to The Foldline to get them printed out properly so I don't have to stick dozens of A4 sheets together. Not the cheapest option in the world but so easy and really fast delivery. I'm delighted with the results and itching to get started now.

Oh lovely, have you got fabric for your projects?

Yes, I sent off for some linen/cotton mix from Minerva for the dress - this one. I've already got far too much in the stash for the shirt

Ooh lovely colour and design. My mum cost a linen-viscose fabric for the dress I'm making her and it's gorgeous. Washed really nicely, super soft and the creases drop out.

Dipping my toe back in too, been too busy with work but fitting in sewing wherever I can.

Lovely to see what everyone is up to, I’ve made a couple of Sagebrush tops (Friday Pattern Co), one in v dark grey linen and one in a floral double gauze. The floral one is sleeveless because I tried to add long sleeves from a different pattern and totally bodged it. The sleeves are in the bin

I’m planning to try and make the Helena Wrap dress that’s just been released by Just Patterns although a bit wary of the fact that it says suitable for those with more experience... ! have some lovely pink linen/viscose for it but definitely doing a toile first

Welcome back @BirdsInTheAttic, may I ask, how did you finish the armholes once you decided to make the top sleeveless?

Love that band around the middle of the Helena dress, so flattering. I wonder what's the tricky bit about that dress, it looks simple enough

Ha! I’m not sure what is meant to be tricky about it, maybe it’s just a disclaimer they add I’ll report back.

With the armholes, I used a narrow bias binding that I also used to bind the neck (and act as the tie at the back).

The armholes were way too open too (ie boobs flapping out the sides) so I freestyled narrowing moving the side hems in a bit where they met the armhole.

I’m sure there would be a better way to make it sleeveless if that’s what you planned from the beginning

Well, best of luck with it! Hope you'll show us a pic when you're done.

Hope you don’t mind me popping on as I’ve looked up a few of the patterns mentioned on here for inspiration as I’m a dabbler with limited time. I’m hoping with the school holidays and a shorter working week I can squeeze some sewing hours in over the next month. My eldest DD said I was turning into Granny (my mum) as I have several boxes of unsewn fabrics now so she’s banned me from buying more unless I make some more stuff so
I’m looking for a shirt dress pattern for a curvy 16/18 has anyone got one they have tried? If just inherited a new to me sewing machine that actually does automatic button holes which I find fascinating as my machine is a 50yrs old but I love it the new one is 20yrs old but all electronic another novelty. So I’m thinking I could actually tackle a shirt dress now as I normally avoid button holes!

Welcome @Biking0077. I can't recommend a pattern yet as I am in the process of making my very first shirt dress! I'm using this New Look pattern and there are reviews on that link, and on Instagram if you search for it. I'm also intrigued by this free shirt dress pattern. It's free which is a plus, you have to print and sellotape it which is a minus and i've also found fewer reviews, however the ones I have found have been positive.

Thanks @NutellaEllaElla I like the new look one you linked too. I also like the Simplicity 8014 I’ll have a closer look later at the construction as I have narrow shoulders but big boobs so always have to make adjustments to tops or look way too baggy. I have a habit of making stuff without a pattern by drafting off things I like already, fitting as I go along but I don’t own any shirts and think this maybe too complex for that approach

Not a classic shirt dress but I’ve made this one - M8030.

It was part of my return to dressmaking and I’m not keen on it as it’s far too generous around the bust for me

Shame cos that's a super cute dress Jins

Now I know more about fitting and choosing the right fabric I’ll make it again. I made it in a thin cotton, not quite lawn but close. If I go for something more drapey with less structure it will fall better. The only thing putting me off is all the interfacing I’ll need to do.

That’s a nice one @jins I should raid my mums boxes really as she normally has every pattern going and enjoys showing me them but then I get “told off” if they aren’t bought back in pristine folded condition so I just buy my own now. I think I’ll order the new look one as it’s cheaper than the Simplicity one but very similar construction. I did buy some teal cotton that feel drapes like linen to make some dungarees but I didn’t like my tester make so I may use that. I’ve got Friday off work so hope to get cutting if the pattern arrives ok & the kids leave me alone for a couple of hours.