Stitch and bitch thread #2. Sewing aficionados gather here!

[IDontMindMarmite]

The previous thread is coming up to capacity and as ever your wisdom, screw ups and accomplishments are appreciated!

My next project is a TatB Romy - I might have just enough material to make 2 short sleeved tops, but I might have to get creative on my cutting layout. I've signed up for a subscription box from Little Miss Sew and Sew, so every month I'll be making something. Not the cheapest way to acquire clothes (since it's £40 a month) but it means I'll try lots of new patterns.

The silk kimono is like a shrug. I'd wear it over black tshirt and leggings as it's long at the back to glam them up a bit when I actually get to go somewhere. The hardest bit with silk is cutting it out. I have found a cutting board and rotary cutter make it easier, and if fine silk tissue paper under the material helps stop it moving too. I have special silk pins and use a blue tipped needle to sew with

Sounds lovely. Good tips too, thanks!

@NutellaEllaElla Sorry only just seen this. I have the Singer 5511 Heavy Duty. Had it since xmas and it’s great! Just what I wanted really, manual stitches, nothing computerised to go wrong, very sturdy and reassuringly robust as it has a metal frame. Sews VERY quickly and smoothly. An absolute joy. Not as clunky as my previous 20 year old (and twice repaired) Toyota RS2000. I’ve lined a few pairs of curtains today and it was great. The drop in bobbin takes a bit of getting used to, but it’s great being able to see how much is left without opening the machine. I still have my elderly and much loved Toyota 4433 overlocker too, which is coming into it’s own now sewing baby clothes for my little one in lockdown (see pics). I’d definitely recommend the Singer. I hope i’ll get at least 20 years out of this one too

Hallo - I’m also a sewer and would love to join you on this thread! I’ve been a bit sporadic in my garment over the last few years, but after a load of quilt sewing, I’ve recently started making for myself again.

I am fairly spherical (a RTW 20) and lots of the indie patterns don’t work for me without loads of grading and redrafting so I’m quite picky about which I use. But I’ve just discovered Muna and Broad who draft brilliantly for a plus-size body, and have made my first collared shirt which I’m thrilled with.

To answer @NutellaEllaElla’s machine question, I have a mid-range Husqvarna sewing machine and a Babylock over locker, both about 13 or 14 years old and going strong (well going strong now they’ve been serviced!). I remember paying about £700 for my Husqvarna and being a bit stressed by how much I was spending, but it’s a brilliantly solid machine with all the stuff I need (like one-step buttonholes) and none of the embroidery stuff I don’t. I do dream about a Bernina but have no real reason to upgrade.

Hello @Tangelo!

I've got a cheapish Brother Innovis 15 and it's been fairly decent but I've never used, say, denim fabric and I think that's where it would struggle. I've got a brother overlocker too again pretty basic for the stuff I do. If I was going to upgrade one of them it would be my overlocker. Not sure if there's a quieter one out there but mine's sounds like a jet taking off! Not great for early morning sewing as DD is asleep in the room above.

That's cool that you've got a new one on the way @NutellaEllaElla. Sewing really is addictive!

@Baypony I have a Toyota RS2000 and I’m considering a Singer heavy duty so your post stood out.

My Toyota has been faultless throughout and still is so I’m not quite ready to make the change. I did look at a fancy computerised machine with loads of stitches but I don’t think I’d use most of them but I do think I need something that copes with curtains and denim.

Still pondering. If the Toyota started playing up the decision would be easy

Welcome @Tangelo. It's amazing how long some people have their machines, I do wonder if the new fangled computerised ones will have the same mettle.

I'm definitely on the bargain basement end of the sewing machines. For the past 3 years I have had a Husquvarna E20 which is fine. No computer controls, just about enough stitches for most jobs and a doohickey to help you thread the needle. It can sew 2-3 layers of denim with the correct needles, so I can take up jeans or patch my husbands jeans. I wouldn't want to make 'proper' jeans on it, as that requires so much more effort on the machine (maybe would give jeggings a go as they are lighter weight). Prior to that I had a Toyota that I bought 2nd hand from Ebay, that was with me for 15 years of taking up trousers and small projects. It probably was fixable, but it was getting so unreliable on doing zig zags (it was all zag no zig) and the quoted cost of service and repair was more than a new machine.

My serger is a Janome 8002d - bottom of the line again. It does most of what I need, but by god, next time I'm going to get one that threads itself. I cry hot angry tears if one of the looper threads snap, and even re-threading the needles is a battle some days.

YouTube was a godsend for threading my overlocker

I've had a flashback the I broke about 6 needles sewing my T&TB Billie jumper on the overlocker. Very much a time when I could have thrown it out of the window.

I think it might have been said on this thread, but I'm sure I read someone say that regular machine needles could be used on an overlocker and I would advise that this wasn't the case for me.

I've just googled the price of air threading Overlockers and don't think I'll be upgrading anytime soon unfortunately.

Minor annoyance today. I’ve just discovered that a store I’ve been buying online from and paying postage is actually about 100m from DS2 workplace and does click and collect. That’ll teach me to check store locations in the future.

But what a treat when shops reopen!

I have made 3 pairs of proper jeans using the basic Toyota from Argos and my overlocker from Lidl.

While that is annoying, how fabulous that of all the websites in the world where you could've ordered from, you liked a place that is so close! I like The Cloth House (London) and Merchant Mills (Rye), both a fecking miles from me.

@CaptainMyCaptain ooooh that is extremely interesting to me! How did you use your overlocker on the jeans? I've heard people say you can finish the raw edges before attaching any of the fabric and i've heard people say to do Flat Felled seams as is traditional for jeans. Did you use the blade to trim as you went as well?

Jeans usually have one seam finished (outer I think) and one flat felled (inner).

Ah I didn't know that, thank you spouse.

@NutellaEllaElla

While that is annoying, how fabulous that of all the websites in the world where you could've ordered from, you liked a place that is so close! I like The Cloth House (London) and Merchant Mills (Rye), both a fecking miles from me.

@CaptainMyCaptain ooooh that is extremely interesting to me! How did you use your overlocker on the jeans? I've heard people say you can finish the raw edges before attaching any of the fabric and i've heard people say to do Flat Felled seams as is traditional for jeans. Did you use the blade to trim as you went as well?

I made the Closet Core patterns Ginger jeans, there are plenty of easy to follow instructions plus step by step photos online. I finished the seams after sewing so they were pressed to one side and the flat felled seams are on the outer leg. Yes, I used the blade. I really need to make another pair but my overlocker is playing up now, I'm hoping it's just the thread I've been using it doesn't like.

My pattern has arrived ready to put together several pairs of lightweight trousers. I have many already but they are ‘festival’ wear and I need something more muted.

So I’m starting with charcoal polycotton as a wearable toile then I have various navy and black fabrics for the final ones.

I’m making view B. The pleat on view A to add volume for movement isn’t my thing at all and will add volume in a location that doesn’t need it

There was mention earlier that Burda don’t include seam allowances. This one certainly does as does a blouse pattern I used last year. Definitely worth checking

I have a Burda pattern that clearly states that it includes seam allowances as well.

My new machine arrived today! I threaded it incorrectly and spent plenty of time on the phone to the company. They were exceptionally helpful for which I am grateful.

Older patterns from Burda don't, and the magazines don't.

Thanks @drspouse. It’s really useful to know that and in fact I’m glad the issue was mentioned as it made me check. I tend to skip a lot of the important info after all these years and just get stuck in.

Wearable toile complete and it’s great. I need to grade the pattern a little at waist and hips and i need to lengthen the legs but it’s a really straightforward project that can be done in a day. I’m going to make loads of these

You're so productive Jins! It's very impressive.

While i'm yet to finish my dress, i'm hoping to get a move on with the buttons this weekend and I have time off work next week. It's still a major pain in the arse that I can't visit fabric stores.

I have a problem with expensive fabrics. When buying online i'm wary of cheap material. The only thing stopping me from buying this beautiful knit fabric (for the Audrey top where I got the PDF pattern for free) is the price and the slooow dispatch and delivery times.

I bet the buttons will be a dream on your new machine! I've used both Mind The Maker fabric and Sew Me Sunshine before. I had no problems with Sew Me Sunshine at all but can't remember the timescales.

The Mind The Maker fabric was a Viscose print and to be honest it was dark print onto white fabric and for the cost would have expected it to be on a dyed background or a bit cheaper since it was viscose. The one you've linked to is gorgeous though and clearly that wouldn't be the same issue.

I've bought some white cotton voile for another Fibremood Norma blouse. I'm making a white lawn cotton Ogden Cami for underneath as it's fairly lightweight but has a beautiful stripe and dotty texture to it.

My productivity is driven by huge gaps in my wardrobe and the shops being shut. I’m hoping to have a me made summer this year.

That fabric is gorgeous but the price is a bit strong for me. I’m buying from the cheaper outlets at the moment but I’m saving jersey patterns until I can buy in store. I’ve been very happy with my pound fabrics viscose and polycottons but I’ve had less luck with the jerseys

Oh I finished something yesterday! A hoody for DS made out of a hoody that was too big for me. He won't wear it (yet) but it looks good. I used an Ottobre pattern.