Boiled down to its basics, positive reinforcement balanced with negative punishment, works for everything capable of percieving reward.
To date that is: dogs, cats, horses, elephants, rhinos, gorillas, various smaller aps and monkeys, dolphins, seals, sea lions, big cats, giraffes... butterflies even.
What varies is how you apply it, what reinforcer you use, how it is delivered, how you manage the environment you work in, how small your training criteria and how rapidly you broaden them or refine them.
Teaching a dog who likes food not to jump up as someone walks in the room, I may well scatter moderate value food on the floor in the other direction.
Teaching a gorilla to present to the enclosure bars to take a shot, I won't be scattering kibble now will I.
Teaching a butterfly to fly to a mark on a cue... I'll be pairing the presentation of food with the cue, on the mark, and then gradually increasing the distance that mark, that the butterflies are released at.
Teaching a dog who loves balls or tugs more than cheese - I'll be using balls and tugs, not cheese (though I may also use Pre-Macks principle, to increase the value of cheese, because using toys as your only reinforcer is somewhat limiting).
I choose this pairing of the quadrants of learning theory not particularly because they're 'nice' and 'kind' although, properly used, they are.
I choose them because they are effective, and the risk of things going wrong in a way that is hard to reverse, or in a way that causes harm, is incredibly low and for the most part I can figure out what the risky points are and mitigate that risk easily.
The other pair - positive punishment and negative reinforcement - the risks are high and whilst I may be aware of them (I am, but a lot of trainers using these methods are not, and most owners using them are not!) I cannot easily avoid those risks. With these options, you only tend to find out you've done harm after you've done harm, at which point it is very difficult to undo.
For example - choosing the intensity level of a shock collar.
- Start with the collar on low, increase the setting over several sessions until the results are what you want - however this runs the risk of desensitizing the dog to the collar settings, so in an emergency situation when you really need it to work it doesn't - and the time you find that out is... the emergency situation.
- Start with the collar high - its a gamble as to how high that should be. Not high enough, see the first bullet point. Too high, dog experiences a 'single event learning' situation where they pair the extreme pain with whatever they were looking at/thinking about at the time. EG dog was thinking about running in the yard. Dog is now terrified to go into the yard. Dog was looking at the delivery person as some of them bring biscuits - dog now links delivery people with extreme pain. Dog first experiences the high shock on seeing a child with a dog - owners intent is to stop their dog running over to other dogs. Dog actually learns 'small children and dogs = extreme pain, better attack them before they can hurt you'... (nb. All of these are real life examples. The latter two caused the dogs to lose their lives.)
I do understand why people go for the quick fix aversive option - they're desperate for a solution to a problem, and in their desperation either they do not understand the risks they are taking at all or, they have some idea but feel it is justified.