The easiest way I find to think about it is that the cup size is the difference between your ribcage and your boobs
So you measure below your boobs snug but not tight and then this is the size band you need
You then measure around your boobs at the widest part and subtract the band measurement from this and that’s how much your boobs stick out from your body =cup size
1’’ A
2’’ B
Etc
Example
34 below your boobs and 38 across them
Your boobs stick out 4 inches
So you need a 34 band and a D cup
That’s simple enough. The issue is that as the cups and the band are joined together (duh) then they interact and bigger cups make band length longer as well as bigger bands making cups larger. If you think about the construction of a bra you have essentially a long rectangle of fabric - the band and two cones/circles - the cups (plus some shoulder straps).
_
OO
The strap is cut up to add the cups so it goes strap - cup- strap- cup - strap
—o-o—
—O-O— this one is bigger though the band is the same size
so the bigger the size of the cup/circle the bigger the overall length of the band will get!
It works the other way round as well
—o-o—
—-o-o—- this one is bigger as the band is longer although they cups are the same size
Which means that
—O-O—
—-o-o—-
These too are roughly the same size in actual length (though not exactly as I’m doing this with o/- not actual material)