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AIBU?

Share your dilemmas and get honest opinions from other Mumsnetters.

To think retinol aged my skin?

55 replies

SweetLoveOfCod · 20/12/2020 13:38

Hello. I’ve been familiar with retinol for probably about the last 20 years, know it’s one if the few things clinically evidenced to improve skin ageing, etc. etc. I know a little about how it’s said to work – thickens the dermis, thins the epidermis, etc.

I was prescribed some about 14 years ago (in my 20s) for acne and tolerated it well.

Last year, after finally sorting both an SPF 50 I was happy wearing every day and a good, plain, soothing cica moisturiser that would not react or trigger acne, I got myself some retinol serum to start with over the winter.

As I’m familiar with the product I know to expect a transitional phase and the product of course warns of potential irritation such as dry skin, peeling & flaking, etc. I started at once a week and progressed up to twice a week, never using consecutive nights in a row. Didn’t experience any dryness or flaking just a slight redness.

I noticed very quickly that my skin seemed to take on a crepey quality that I’d never seen before, however I found reports that this is just a phase and not to worry etc. Eventually I stopped, as I felt uncomfortable with how my skin was suddenly looking. It’s hard to describe, but the skin took on a slippery quality and it looked as though the top layer was sort of sliding over lower layers of the skin. Overall my face now looks more gaunt and less plump, and my skin feels slacker and more delicate. The structure of the skin seems to have softened and gone sort of ‘mushy’. I’ve got little pouches under my eyes that weren’t there before.

I’ve compared pictures from when I started using it with when I stopped using it, and can see a clear difference.

Needless to say I’ve stopped using it, however it’s driving me a bit mad – there is no warning of this sort of reaction anywhere, although there are anecdotal reports online. Clearly the way retinol works on the skin is complex and I’m also curious about what might have happened.

OP posts:
SweetLoveOfCod · 21/12/2020 02:25

Thanks also @Photographsandsand for the night cream recommendations! Smile

OP posts:
Annoymou5e · 21/12/2020 17:48

@SweetLoveOfCod

Hi *@Annoymou5e* I'm reasonably familiar with retinols myself (as a layperson) and am actually quite concerned by all the unqualified advice thrown about casually in discussion groups. I have to admit I've done it myself in the past, likewise based on my own "research" and individual experience.

Obviously you can pick up lots of useful information that way (along with lots of misinformation), however I don't think reading forums qualifies anyone to say definitively what reactions may or may not be possible with retinoids. Lots about retinoids is still not fully understood at an academic level, so I think claiming ultimate authority on the basis of reading online forums is a bit of a reach.

I was addressing my question @Photographsandsand because I'm interested in the take on this from within the beauty/cosmeceuticals industry.

Yet here we are on an online forum asking questions from random people... then being an arse when they suggest or ask something and say they aren’t qualified to give advice.

if you want professional advice, go ask your derm.

curiouscat1987 · 21/12/2020 18:05

Interested to know what product you used as I didnt think The Ordinary did a Rosehip/Retinol combi??

From what you've said it sounds like less of a reaction to the product and more that the strength was just too high for you and you've damaged your skin's mositure barrier. Even if you're used to other acids, with retinol you really have to introduce it super slowly and work you way up - what % strength was it?

I'm no doctor, but as a skincare buff you might find ceramide containing products and a good occlusive helpful in restoring your skin - good luck!

SweetLoveOfCod · 21/12/2020 19:49

Thanks @curiouscat1987! Yes, I realised after that I’d got that detail wrong – it was the retinol in squalane I used. If I were to use it again I would start with the lowest concentration (and a different brand entirely given what @Photographsandsand has shared).

May I ask what makes you think it relates to the skin’s moisture barrier? There was no mention of this in the product literature – is this a common issue with retinol??

Thanks for the ceramide suggestion, a few other people have recommended ceramides for supporting the skin so will look into this and ask the derm when I see them. Flowers

OP posts:
curiouscat1987 · 21/12/2020 20:14

Its a common issue with any actives, including retinol! It wouldntt do any harm to ere on the safe side and use some skin barrier friendly products either way :)

Ive had good experiences with the ordinary personally but everyone is different. Retinol is too harsh for me so i use retinoids, specifically the granactive retinoid!

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