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AIBU?

Share your dilemmas and get honest opinions from other Mumsnetters.

Travelling in India?

66 replies

FirstVisit · 22/08/2018 00:17

Hi all, I've occasionally considered doing some solo travelling in India. Am in my 50s. Just interested in the culture, etc. Am fairly happy travelling and being on my own, though I would consider group travelling as long as not too scheduled, and as long as it wasn't too expensive.

Have other people travelled to India alone/in a group and enjoyed the experience? Or was it stressful?

OP posts:
sulflower · 23/08/2018 15:54

Have a look at Trailfinders too OP they have various options and very good to work with.

SweetLathyrus · 23/08/2018 16:36

I took a group of students to India (Delhi), we had minders/guides, and two wonderful drivers. I loved it mostly, and so did they. But as protected as we were, the female students and I did have a very different experience from the male students, despite dressing modestly. The girls in particular experienced groping, insults and even had stones thrown at them. On the other hand, at the Taj Mahal, we had lots of Indian families asking if they could have pictures taken with them!

Go, OP, but ere on the side of caution, I would go with a group.

Todamhottoday · 24/08/2018 02:05

Urbanbeetler, do you have experience of this phenomenal healthcare?

If so I would be very interested in hearing about it.

The very opposite of what I, my family and many of my friends have experienced.

AlexaShutUp · 24/08/2018 09:28

Urbanbeetler, do you have experience of this phenomenal healthcare?

The question wasn't addressed to me, but actually, I do have some experience of this. My husband required urgent keyhole surgery on one occasion while we were in India, and the care that he received in a provincial Indian city was absolutely fantastic. The quality of care is certainly there if you have good insurance and/or you're able to pay for it.

Of course, I'm well aware that it's a very different picture for those who can't pay.

It probably helped too that we had local friends who were able to guide us on which hospitals to use and which to avoid.

Todamhottoday · 24/08/2018 10:09

Alexa, as an ex-pat here we have the best healthcare provision, but unfortunately having to use the hospitals on more than one occasion (in a fairly major city) it was far from satisfactory, Im talking about private providers

My local friends also have had dreadful situations with hospitals, and sadly money is king and every little thing is on that bill if its needed or not. I know some who have had unnecessary surgery and have had to have things rectified in another country such is the distrust.

I have been here long enough to know quite a bit of what goes on, and sadly one the service provided in a lot of Indian hospitals (private, not public) is not what it once was and thats just not my view but of many I know.

Most of us will not let a needle near us unless in a desperate situation.

Im glad your husband had a good experience and made a good recovery.

Hilltoptea · 24/08/2018 10:43

Don't go solo there.. It's just such an intimidating place. Have just spent a few months travelling all over India with my dp. Wouldn't do it again.

South is definitely nicer though. They are more accepting of foreigners. You'd be fine in Goa, lots of foreigners there. But very touristy. Although you might still be approached/followed by men. Alleppey is friendly. Munnar is a gorgeous area, the landscape is stunning. Darjeeling and Sikkim are much nicer areas, although North, as they are more Tibetan/Nepalese than Indian. The Toy Train to Darjeeling was our favourite thing India. Any area in the far North West I'd avoid, as they are very 'traditional' and women are raped/killed there regularly.

The landscape and wildlife in India is absolutely beautiful, probably some of the most beautiful nature on Earth. But the people (men) ruin it really.

Men will constantly try to grope you in any crowd/train station.
Anywhere you walk you will be stared at constantly.

One started staring and touching himself about five feet away from me and didn't even stop when I was shouting at him to go away!

I'd say if you do go, just do the tour operator thing. Don't go out at night and avoid crowds (which is almost impossible in India!)

Librarybooksandacoconut · 24/08/2018 10:51

In terms of operators, I’ve used intrepid both in India and other countries and they’ve always been good. They mainly use local transport, very focused on getting to know a place, groups are quite small and the tour guide is also usually local. My dm who is in her 60s has travelled lots with exodus and explore which are slightly more upmarket and an older demographic, but still similar ethos.

latika · 26/08/2018 03:12

I know I’m coming into this late but just wanted to add my experiences. I’ve travelled to India at least twice a year since 2009 with work based mostly in Delhi and Mumbai. I’ve also had a few holidays there too. It does take time to adjust to the noise and the constant requests for money but after a few days the noise fades and you learn to be firm and ignore the people that will follow you with their hand out. You will quickly see who is need and those that aren’t - a beautiful little girl used to catch me on the way to work every day begging with gold earrings and dressed well. I used to bring her the fruit and water from the hotel room but she would refuse and ask for money.

Personally I wouldn’t recommend going to Delhi alone, it’s the only place I’ve experienced groping and it was scary. Like a previous poster I was also in a market area with small shops and was caught totally unaware by the shop owner. You will also be constantly photographed and stared at in Delhi and even for the most experienced solo traveller it can be intimidating. Public transport there as a lone female traveller is not recommended.

Mumbai I love and unlike some other’s experiences I have never had any issues there. I will happily take a tuc tuc or wander round on my own. People are friendly and I’ve used the same driver there since my first visit and he is a gent. I love the night life in Mumbai and juhu beach is great for people watching if you don’t mind everyone trying to sell you all kinds of tat! I met lots of tourists and the occasional ex pat in Mumbai and found it much easier to chat to people.

My first trip to Goa was awful! It was in sept so just outside ‘tourist season’ and we were hassled constantly - I was with an English female friend. On the beach we were in t shirts and baggy trousers so no inappropriate clothing and still men were constantly taking photos and videoing us. We did not feel safe at night and getting a taxi was impossible. I went back later that year with some Indian friends and had a completely different experience. No hassle on the beach, guys stayed away. We were in the same area but felt so different.

I’ve been to Kerala twice on holiday and loved it, one thing to mention though and it may have been my choice of hotels is that other tourists there didn’t really socialise or interact much with other guests. Again I had a driver that was amazing, he helped us plan what we wanted to do and also made sure we were in safe areas. I loved Kerala the people were so friendly and it’s beautiful. The days we spent on the houseboat were amazing and the experience is one I’ll always cherish.

I spent 3 days in Jaipur and 3 days in jodhpur and loved it. I stayed in a family run hotel both times and they really looked after me and organised great guides to take me sight seeing so I was never really out in public alone. Agra was scary, so many hawkers trying to sell to you and crowding you, but worth it to see the Taj.

I also spent a few days in Udaipur and stayed in the hotel where the filmed the best exotic marigold hotel. It’s in a small village and we arrived in the middle of a festival and the atmosphere was fantastic. The hotel itself wasnt great but I have never laughed so much. The reviews look like it’s improved a lot so might be worth a visit www.ravlakhempur.com/

Planning is key for travelling in India. You can now do your tourist visa online with no need to send your passport off, so much easier. Do your research and look for recommendations online from recent travellers - the India Mike forums are full of info. I think 3 months in India alone could get lonely unless you find accommodation for similar travellers and make some travel buddies along the way.

If you need a trusted driver in Mumbai or Kerala please message me.

DinosApple · 26/08/2018 07:37

My DM would like to go back to India, specifically Chennai and Bengaluru to visit as that's where's she's from. We had a loose plan that I would go as well. She's not been back in 60 years, so reading this it may be best for my brother to go too.

listsandbudgets · 26/08/2018 08:43

Yes to sorting out travel insurance and making sure you have every vaccination going. My poor DS was travelling solo and managed to get typhoid in an ofc the track area. Since she was nearly unconscious when the lady running the bwd and brealfast she was stayig in finally took her to hospital tbere was no discussion about insurance. She came round in a small local hospital.. she said very little abkut it except jt was traumatic and NOT an experience to be recommended. They probably saved her life but she was very releived when insurance kicked in and she was moved somewhere better

listsandbudgets · 26/08/2018 08:45

thats my sister not my son... hes sjx abd much as some mornings shipping him off to distant climes seems appealing it would be vastly irresponsible!!

By the way apart from the typhoid she loved India though she too mentioned groping men!

NameChangedAgain18 · 26/08/2018 08:57

I've been on my own twice now (as well as other trips with my husband). I avoid public transport and stay in highly-rated hotels or homestays (and, when travelling between accommodation make sure I'm picked up by the hotel's driver). It has generally been enjoyable, but I did have a scary moment in a corner of a Hindu temple when a priest was trying to get money off me and had grabbed hold of my arm. A friend of mine who travelled solo was abducted by a tuktuk driver in Delhi and, later in the same trip, wanked at by a group of boys in a beach in the south.

BrightYellowDaffodil · 26/08/2018 09:05

I've travelled in India, both as part of a group and as a lone female. I think what helps is having a bit of experience under your belt, in India and as a solo traveller. I'd been to a few other countries and travelled around alone (Egypt and Morocco) but when I went to India I started off as part of a group. When our group trip ended, they all went home and I went off on my own. I'd 'found my feet' a bit by then and understood more of the Indian way of doing things, which made it a lot easier. India is quite a full-on experience and it can be overwhelming.

I've travelled in Kerala and Mumbai alone, and I've travelled around Delhi and Jaipur alone too. I am absolutely not saying it doesn't happen, but not once did I get any hassle or trouble, but you will get stared at and photographed. There is no sense of "Don't stare/point; it's rude" in India, if someone wants a look at you they will, and they'll point you out to their entire family! It's not done to be aggressive or intimidate, it's just how it is. Agree to having your photo taken, it makes life easier and saves being followed around by people taking a "selfie" that's more you than them. It's a nice way of meeting people too - particularly in places like Delhi, a lot of Indian people there will also be tourists from more far-flung corners of the country and Westerners are sometimes seen as a bit exotic!

It helps to stay off public transport though, I travelled by tuktuk or taxi (in Mumbai, if you get a cab from the airport, they'll give you a receipt which has your allocated car's license plate on it, which I thought was a really good idea). It also helps to dress modestly, plan your routes (arranging transfers etc in advance where possible) and have back up plans so you aren't stranded if your hotel turns out to be awful or overbooked. Always have a Plan B! That said, when I did have something wrong (a driver didn't arrive to collect me from the airport) I found nothing but kindness from all the men - the security guard, several other drivers etc - they were all determined to look after me, and were calling the hotel, the driver, another car for me...! Yes, there are problems but by and large the kindness and generosity of Indian people is staggering.

I'd go back to India in a heartbeat, and I'd travel alone happily, but a bit of experience first goes a long way :)

OliviaStabler · 26/08/2018 09:19

If you visit Chennai, I highly recommend The Leela Palace hotel. Try and get a water view, it is quite a sight to eat breakfast and watch the water buffalo. Not something you usually see over your morning toast.

CherryPavlova · 26/08/2018 10:12

Second Leela Palace group. We stayed in Bengaluru Leela Palace. It was a very comfortable hotel and staff were very helpful.

NameChanger22 · 26/08/2018 10:18

I travelled India alone in my 20s. I travelled the whole of the country, north, south, east and west and had an amazing time. I always felt safe, although I did have a toiletry bag stolen once and got followed a few times. I really enjoyed travelling alone, I think you meet more people this way. India is a great place to meet people.

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