I hate to go against the grain, but I do think you're being unfair.
The thing about hosting is that it's essentially a gift. So when you buy in nice food, etc, you can't make a person appreciate it, although it's nice if they do. No one owes you anything because you got a house with a guest room. Also, it's not fair to turn your nose up at what someone else gives you, which is kind of what you're doing by telling her you aren't happy to visit her, because the hosting isn't adequate.
I stay in hotels close to friends when they can't provide what I want (a night unbroken by baby crying, a cleaner bathroom, a room with blackout curtains). I don't think that's an unreasonable cost. It shows I'm willing to travel, and that I want to be part of their life, not have them only be part of mine. It's a way of accepting my friends for who they are.
I haven't ever paid a friend's expenses for visiting me, though. I've only accepted that sort of thing once, and that was, well, a gentleman of independent means. I think that saying you're happy to visit her, but she must pay her own way to visit you, would be more than fair.
Also, could you not do some cheaper activities? I've had long periods when money was tight, and really appreciated my friends suggesting free art gallery trips, home cooked food, etc, which was much more pleasant than having others pay for what I can't afford.
I think it's worth making an effort, because she's your friend!