Feminist artist Judy Chicago “Working with Dior has been the greatest creative opportunity of my life”

[Catsfriend]

www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2020/jan/21/dior-judy-chicago-feminist-banners

news.artnet.com/art-world/judy-chicago-dior-couture-paris-1758699

I don’t know what stone I’ve been living under but until the Dior show I had no idea who Judy Chicago was. I do however keep up with what goes on in fashion, because I’m interested in it and because I like fashion.

When the head designer at Dior trotted out those Breton shirts with the words “we should all be feminists” in a reference to Ngozi Adichie’s manifesto I thought it was interesting but didn’t think much of it. Then there was the Leonor Fini tribute.

But after this collab for the S/S 2020 collection with Chicago, I really sat up and took notice of what Maria Grazia Chiuri is doing: placing women front and centre, starting with the womb-like structure at the Musee Rodin in which the Dior show was held.

I was really interested to read what Judy Chicago has done so far and how she works to advance women, often donating her cut to organisations that benefit women. She also skilfully countered the critique of her work “The Dinner Party”.

Interestingly her former design partner at Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli is also putting women in the spotlight, celebrating the many women in his atelier and their couture skills in everything he does - even bringing them out on the catwalk.

I know couture is unaffordable for 90 pct of the population but I cannot help but be fascinated by the art and technique. Perhaps it’s due to the fact that both my mum and nan had a dressmaker who made everything they wore using patterns and fabrics from Paris.

Clicky links

news.artnet.com/art-world/judy-chicago-dior-couture-paris-1758699

www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2020/jan/21/dior-judy-chicago-feminist-banners

Thanks for the links. I think couture's amazing. Of course I can only afford to look at pics but I see it as being up there with any other art form, and the skills of the people who produce it are unbelievable.

Of course couture is an art form- there should be no question about that.

I follow PP on Instagram and agree it’s really nice to see him celebrate his atelier.

I’m really impressed with Virginie G at Chanel too, she had a big act to follow but her designs are delicate and beautiful.

Absolutely it can be art, but I’m not seeing much that’s massively feminist or ‘empowering’ in things like the “editioned goddess plates designed by the artist, soon to be available for purchase through Dior”.

I'm pretty sure it's mostly women who make the garments: immensely skilled, talented women whose names we never hear. If that's not about feminism then I don't know what is.

53rdway
Yes, I also noticed that. Will be interesting to see whether she was able to impose requirements about proceeds of the sale of the plates going to charities or NGOs.

Marshabradyo
Virginie Viard is still getting a lot of pushback though. Ultimately it all boils down to profit. If sales are down after a few seasons, she will be replaced.
Wonder what Jean Paul Gaultier is up to... (by the way, that catwalk show last night was quite something. Wonderful to see such a diverse group of women, of every age and size).

Floisme
There are a few men among Valentino’s petites mains but for the most part, all women.
Lesage employs male embroiderers in India. Traditionally a man’s job, although I never bothered to look into why that is. Only realised this after watching the documentary on Dries van Noten.

It does matter yes, I don’t know what the figures are, hopefully it will pick up for her. It may take time as she was a next in line rather than an established name.

Thanks Cat! It's on the long list of things I'm planning to read up on when I retire or get kicked out of work.

I've seen her 'Dinner Party'. It was absolutely amazing. One of the most beautiful and evocative works of art I have seen. Also, I saw it way before the internet was invented, and before many of the women she celebrated were widely known. In its day it was almost spiritual in terms of its impact.

Is couture just clothing for women or do men have their version too?

If you like Chicago's 'Dinner Party', you might find Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant's dinner service interesting:

www.anothermag.com/art-photography/10601/crockery-painted-with-portraits-of-famous-women-from-history

I've seen her 'Dinner Party'. It was absolutely amazing. One of the most beautiful and evocative works of art I have seen. Also, I saw it way before the internet was invented, and before many of the women she celebrated were widely known. In its day it was almost spiritual in terms of its impact.

Did you see the real thing? I'm so jealous. I've only ever seen it in art books or I guess online later on.

I too love couture and view it as a form of art. Articles which go on about how such and such a thing is unwearable are missing the point of fashion as art; as it filters down it becomes wearable (like inspiration from couture with a flowing sleeve becoming a more manageable sleeve on a blouse).

There are many issues within the garment industry which are very pertinent to feminism and Chicago has long been considered a feminist artist.

Yes, I saw the real thing :). I almost got a sense of what the world would be like if women had equality of representation in religious (as in goddesses), historical and simply visible terms as men, or, indeed if men were the invisible or inferior ones. The room resonated with women’s power. It gave a sense of what could be. I remember looking at many of the names and thinking ‘who?’. There was also anger that so much had been hidden. Of course, there was no real dispute re what a woman was in those days so there was no compromise.

Thanks for the link Scrimshaw! Quite liked the dinner set and loved the discussion of Woolf.

Oh that's wonderful YetAnotherSpartacus I am very envious - what an experience.

I also enjoyed the link Scrimshaw - thanks for posting it.

Thanks so much for sharing the link, Scrimshaw. I suppose you’ve been to Firle to Vanessa Bell’s house?

Everyone seems to know about Judy Chicago/have seen her work. My education seems like a total waste of money now 🤪 (we had women’s studies but I was not allowed to make the crossover at the time for my dissertation). Will read up on her. Any other suggestions?

Glad to find some other couture lovers here.

Ah, no, it's the other side of the country from me! Maybe one day.

Suggestions for feminist artists?

Anna Mendiata, who died from a fall from her 34th floor flat after an argument with her husband, Carl Andre, is a fabulous artist and someone whose name I'm always happy to share.

Barbara Krueger. Jenny Holzer. Jenny Saville.

I love Leonora Carrington, both her art and short stories.

Barbara Krueger and Anna Mendiata are new to me. Thanks.

Love Leonora Carrington. And Jenny Holzer (just saw one of her benches at the Guggenheim in Venice last week). The paintings of Jenny Saville that I have seen blew me away. So much to see, so little time.

Leonora Carrington is wonderful!

Also, Cindy Sherman, Marina Abramovic's early works, Hannah Wilke ... the Guerrilla Girls.