I'm heading to Italy soon and would like to read a few books to give me some local flavour. I tend to read fiction, but don't mind a good memoir. I can do non-ficiton if it's pacy and has a good narrative thread.
I'd prefer to avoid self-indulgent 'I moved to Italy for a year' types of things like Under the Tuscan Sun. I read My Brilliant Friend (first one only) and wasn't keen, so no Elena Ferrante please.
What do you recommend?