I wouldn't have visitors for the few two weeks as this is your first rodeo, for one main reason:
Training a lab should be a walk in a park. They are food motivated and they are smart. Within two weeks, with consistency and effort, by the time you do receive visitors they should have a good grasp on basic commands (sit, stay, recall, down, settle and mostly toilet trained) and this should help introduce them to people without them getting over-excited.
Introducing your pup to new people is great - but the last thing you want is to ingrain 'jumping' is good in a young puppy (and young puppies will jump and people will say 'oh it doesn't matter' and it 100% does. Correcting bad behaviour is a million times harder than instilling good behaviour). Your lab will still be excited by new people, but they will also know by then that obeying your commands = food and food = more exciting than people.
Lots of people talk about 'socialisation'. But they act like socialisation means getting your dog used to everything and everyone and greeting every person and dog who comes across their path and not being fearful. And to an extent that is correct. But it's also not: socialisation is, in my view, getting your dog robust enough that it is used to ignoring other things and focussing on you. A well trained dog is a dog that is always looking for it's owner and wants to be with it's owner - and the best way to install that behaviour, is to build that bond (usually with food - but in some breeds, it'll be toys) and fast. Most of the issues you see with retrievers (Labs/Goldies/Flatties) is, quite frankly, because of poor socialisation, lack of training and a lack of understanding from owners about how socialisation works.
And, being frank, people are bloody stupid around puppies that aren't their own. They wind them up. They encourage them to mouth (inadvertently). They encourage them to jump. They also, very often, damage the training that is already in place (i.e. effort going into not teaching the dog to jump up, or mouth). That's because they don't have to deal with the fallout.
I'd also not let the puppy explore the house. Labs can be very prone to joint issues. That means limiting opportunities to jump onto furniture (and most importantly off it), not letting it climb stairs, not letting it skid on stone or wooden floors. Also, just for hygiene reasons (alongside puppy training reasons - because no matter how much you think you've cleaned, your puppy will still smell the wee and that makes house training harder), I wouldn't have a puppy that isn't house trained anywhere except one room. House training is a lot easier if the puppy can't escape your eyes.
In case helpful, I do the following when I have a new puppy:
Week 8/9: Training. Socialisation in the car. Occasional outings in arms (something that straps him in, not literally just in your arms).
Week 10: Second vaccination. More training. Slightly more socialisation in the car. Occasional outings in the arms.
Week 11: By this time, if you have been rigorously training, puppy should be house trained, have basic recall (inside and in the garden) and pretty much love you and food. But, still, more training. Slightly more socialisation in the car, more outings. Visitors (1-2 at a time)
Week 12: First time in the ground. Careful interactions with other dogs (1-2 a walk, max), and other people (1-2 people a walk, max). Get your dog used to being outside and in the wider world - which is obviously very exciting - but still maintain their focus on you. Yes, your pup should be excited to see the world and it should sniff and greet other dogs...but it should still want you.
Remember, a good breeder should have socialised the puppy with relatives etc before this. So they should be used to people. You just need to reinforce this - not create it.
Good breeders will also have a puppy pack for you that details this in more detail - or they should explain it to you when you collect your new addition.