Help needed with a rescue greyhound.

[SDTGisAnEvilWolefGenius]

Ds1 has a rescue greyhound, who up to now has been an absolutely lovely dog, but has just started food-guarding - he stole food from the toddler and snapped at ds1 and dil when they tried to take it back. He didn't break the skin, but even so, they can't risk him being around the toddler, or the babies (they are expecting twins) when they arrive.

For the moment he is in a muzzle (he's an ex racer, so he is very well used to it and perfectly happy in it) but that isn't a long term solution.

We would have him up here in a heartbeat, but he chases cats, and we have CatBastard - and even though he is a bit of a git, we don't want him chased and caught by a greyhound. He's over 17 too, so even if we were prepared to rehome him (which we aren't - he is a git, but he is our git and we do love him), he wouldn't easily find a home or settle into a new home.

We've asked around amongst the dog people in the village, and there's no-one who has offered to take him - he'd need a cat free home with no children.

They got him from the Greyhound Trust, who can't take him back because they are full to bursting, and say he would be PTS. They are going to talk to an expert from the GT, to see if they can suggest anything - apparently he is underweight - racing/ex racing greyhounds need to be bigger and better fed than other greyhounds, so while the vet says he is a good weight, the Trust say he needs to put on several kilos, so he could be food guarding because he's starving/hungry - but even if feeding him up is the answer, could they ever trust him again?

I am posting this here to see if any of the wise Doghouse MNers have any suggestions. We can't see the wood for the trees at the moment.

I've seen so many fat greyhounds, I'd be cautious about people saying they need to put on more weight if the vet says they're OK! Too many people think you can get a greyhound and then just give it walks on a short lead and no running ever, and pile the pounds on too... sighthounds are meant to be skinny, and seeing two or three ribs quite clearly is a good weight (I'm cutting down my lurcher's food to get him back to that! - he's just put on a bit too much weight for the winter over recent weeks).

In terms of food I would suggest that they're very strict with food - if the toddler has food (or anyone else has food) the dog needs to be in another room, or at least separated from them with a dog gate. I found this essential when my toddler started feeding himself as our (part greyhound) dog would otherwise sit next to him and he'd feed her which wasn't ideal! When the dog is being fed make sure everyone is clear and leave it alone to eat. If more volume of food is beneficial, but you don't want to add much in terms of calories, things like carrots and cabbage are good - my previous lurcher loved both well-cooked and they helped to fill her up so that she was satisfied at the end of her meal and not searching for additional food. You could also consider feeding from a slow-feeder, or using some dry kibble in a sniffy mat for added interest in searching for food - but of course make sure that the dog is left alone and not approached when doing this sort of activity.

In terms of trying to take something back, this is often not a good idea. Some dogs won't have a problem with it - but many will . The best option is to get them used to 'swap' what they have for something else - ideally that they will like a lot. Again, making the 'swap for' item something that might have some food or treat in can be a good idea - perhaps a treat ball, a kong with something in etc.

That is all very good advice, @mistlethrush - thank you. I will pass it on to ds1.

Your comments on weight are interesting - ds1 has the Trust on one side saying the dog is underweight, and the vet disagreeing. Adding veg to his food would be a good option, to fill him up.

If the dog manages to take some food I would leave it, there's no benefit to taking it back. I'd just say 'ah' (so they know they shouldn't be doing it) and leave it. The dog just needs to be separated when the child is eating, it's not that big a deal I don't think. Avoiding the situation arising is probably the best option.

I personally wouldn't try to swap stolen food with a treat - all you're teaching the dog is that if they steal food they'll get an even better reward for it. Give them the kong or whatever while the toddler is eating, not after the dog has stolen food from the toddler.

Ime once the cold weather starts my sight hounds need a jumper /pj's. Easy for them to lose a bit of weight trying to keep warm. Gave up trying to fatten one of ours.. Ddog needs to be in another room from feeding families... Please don't give up on him!! Snatching food isn't an aggressive ddog imo.
Or mine would be long gone..

Aren’t all greyhounds ex racers to some extent?
On the weight thing, we’ve always been told that you’re aiming for three visible ribs.
There are some good Facebook greyhound groups. Maybe join one or two. You will get 10% of people giving outdated advice using pack theory and alpha stuff, but the majority of advice is usually good.

Thank you everyone. I will pass on all the advice to ds1.

He did actually snap onto ds1's hand and dil's hand - though he didn't break the skin - and it is this that has scared them so much. With a toddler in the house and twins next year, they are really worried.

How is the dog when it's not around food?
I think they are right to be concerned but I wouldn't necessarily write the dog off yet. Get an appointment booked with a qualified behaviourist after a vet check and go from there.
In the meantime get a stair gate and keep the dog separate whenever there is food around.
Obviously a bite isn't good but the fact that the dog didn't break the skin is encouraging.

He is the softest, most laid back dog I’ve ever met, @Newuser75 - absolutely lovely.

I will pass on your advice - I’m so grateful to the wise heads of MN.

I think trying to take food back (unless it's dangerous for the dog to eat it) is always a bad idea.

Just separate the dog around meal times?

As a one off I wouldn't panic tbh.

Snapping and putting mouth round arm etc without biting actually shows good bite inhibition. Shows the dog was not interested in hurting your DS but warning him not to take what he had.

Owner of a resource guarding rescue dog here!

Two things first:

1. if this is a new behaviour, get him a vet check ASAP, and a thorough one (make them feel all his joints, check for pain, potentially a blood test too). Sudden behavioural changes often indicate underlying pain. Dogs do show pain, but often in unexpected ways. Explain the situation to your vet.
2. If pain/medical condition is ruled unlikely, ask vets for a referral to a behaviourist. Or go on the Animal Behaviour and Training Council (ABTC) website. These trainers and behaviourists have been vetted against the latest high standards and are all qualified. Don't just find a trainer/behaviourist on Facebook; it's an unregulated industry and some 'dog training' qualifications are worthless! A good (force free, positive reinforcement based) trainer/behaviourist will help you hugely.

Some basic advice, which a trainer/behaviourist will give to you as they did to us, but don't let this stop you asking them for help as they are the experts. Resource guarding is a fear of loss, so the short answer is to not take things from the dog. So in terms of human food, don't allow him access to it. That might mean giving him a kong in another room whilst the family eats dinner where he can't get to their food. Never take food or any other resource away from him. Leave him well alone when he's eating his meal, he needs to feel safe knowing that his food is HIS. I wouldn't like it if someone was noseying around me eating my dinner - he feels the same. Never punish him for growling, growls are a warning to back off. If you punish a growl, dogs will learn that growling doesn't work, and will escalate to a bite. I say this, but actually, please don't punish him for anything (not suggesting you would!) but it's not considered ethical to punish dogs these days, the premise is to set them up to succeed, not let them fail and tell them off. To help him feel safer and view humans as meaning good stuff coming, not good stuff being taken away, you can also give him a treat/bit of his kibble when approaching him. This teaches him that humans = more good food instead of = him losing something he likes.

Hope this helps. Not a trainer/behaviourist but have been through it with our dog and it's tough. Dogs trust are also fantastic at helping with behaviour, and have a free behaviour advice line who are brilliant and will really help. Please reach out for help with him, resource guarding doesn't have to be the end of the road

Realised I wrote my reply quite rushed, apologies! I hope I don't come across as preachy, I've just been there and want to share my advice and encourage them to get proper help because it changed everything for us ❤️

Also want to second that the fact he didn't draw blood is encouraging. If he wants to seriously hurt you, he can and would. Sounds like he's got good bite inhibition and is simply saying "that's mine, back off!". But, this does mean they need to take action now to ensure this doesn't escalate and help him feel better

It doesn’t come across as preachy at all, @robinsrace - on the contrary - I am so grateful for all the advice and help on here. 💐💕

Resource guarding is very common in rescue dogs where food is very valuable and sometimes scarce. Ex racers are often underweight because once they are no longer economically viable they are often neglected (reinforces the resource guarding).
I have had an ex-racer who although the gentlest, best boy, had lots of issues and we just learned how to work around them. He would steal and guard all sorts of weird stuff like tin foil and food packaging. He snapped at me many times and I did teach 'swap' because sometimes he would try to eat plastic bags. He was always fed first and if we were eating a meal, we closed the door. Small children should not eat next to the dog (and that's not just a greyhound thing) and never ever try to get it back.
It can take years to earn trust but it is so worth it. The only hangover from his racing days was that he would growl and 'tell off' any other dog I gave a treat to. So I stopped doing it. Brain training games are good, especially if you want some peace. Also licky mats. The sighthound community on Instagram and FB are really helpful. Whatever problem someone has, there is always someone who has experienced it.

My rescue greyhound is a huge, laid back softie unless it comes to food and sometimes things like kids toys

We have had almost identical situation to you in that she went to take food from toddlers plate, I grabbed her collar to stop her and she snapped at me. She did the same to my husband as well another time.

The toddler doesnt live with us so we have now decided to keep them apart in the house. And we have now trained her that she has to lie on her bed to get her food and any treats and this has worked well.

I also have a rule that noone goes to take anything from her. If she gets something she shouldn't have, I grab a high value treat and she drops whatever she has and I give her the treat. Obviously that doesnt work with things she can gobble quickly, and we have had situation where she has snatched and eaten bread off the work surface but toys I get get of her by swapping for the treat.

Its a shame she has this issue as other than that she is perfect

Thank you all - I have passed all your wonderful advice on to ds1, and he says thank you too.

They are getting a visit from a dog behaviourist from the Greyhound Trust, and are hoping they will help, and they'll be able to keep the dog.