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Help - lead reactive rescue.

18 replies

Reasonistreason · 22/10/2023 19:25

I’ll try and keep this as brief as possible :
We adopted ddog from dogs trust, aged 18 months. She’s now 4. Weren’t told of any abuse issues, it was more change in circumstances. Advised that her dog reactivity just needed a bit of work. We’ve not been to a coffee shop since! Her dog reactivity on lead is bad.
I have had a one on one (initially for loose lead walking as that was bad too) in the early days with a behaviourist recommended by DT and a Member of APDT. Wasn’t impressed, just confirmed I was doing everything correctly.
Have also been back to DT for a session with one of their trainers. Again confirmed that I’m doing things correctly re engage/disengage method.
Reading/watching videos I have used the engage/disengage method together with lots of treats. After more than a year I’d still not managed to get her any closer to another dog. A road width is her safe distance and using engage/disengage we can pass. Every walk I’m on alert for any dogs - I hate corners! Walks are not a pleasure for me. I have sustained two injuries due to her reactivity.
More recently, I’ve been working with a trainer recommended by vet nurse and a couple of neighbours. We’ve managed to get her comfortable enough to mix with a group of dogs at the local park and to walk around park with one of his dogs both on lead. The dog group are all off lead and ddog is on lead (we were warned her recall was bad and she has beagle in her so would be off after a scent if off lead. Hope to address this in the future). Ddog is happy to mix with these dogs, pulling me to them when she sees them. We have also started pavement walks with a neighbour and his very calm dog. Ddog takes no notice of this dog, except for sniffing it and is quite happy to walk alongside. I’ve videoed this and shown trainer. He assures me she’s displaying relaxed body language.
During a recent training session in town, we were able to walk past some dogs, ddog sniffed and walked on or totally ignored other dog. But randomly she would react (barking and lunging). No connection with breed of dog/size/colour etc. Pavement walks she’s more reactive and seems to be getting worse not better. Trainer is also confused as sometimes she’s ok (I know about trigger stacking) and sometimes not, more often not nowadays.
She’s on a low protein diet, has nutripaw calming treats. Ddog is walked on a harness as she strangles herself when reacting with a collar. We go to weekly outdoor training, I hire enclosed fields for her to use with a doggy friend and we attend a weekly breed meet where she loves to play with other dogs. She’s an absolute sweet dog, we’re lucky in many respects. Before having her and loving her, I’d not have chosen to adopt her as the reactivity stops us doing all the doggy things DH and me envisaged as part of having a dog.
I’d like to get to a point where we can walk past other dogs with no greeting as long as she doesn’t react.
I also feel sad for her as it must be stressful for her.
I simply cannot afford another behaviourist at this present time. Maybe in the future but I would prefer to use one that’s been recommended by someone. Has anyone got dog behaviourist recommendations for Hampshire please? Has anyone got any advice for me?
Sorry, not so brief after all!!

OP posts:
bunnygeek · 22/10/2023 20:12

Dogs Trust now have Reactive Dog School classes, they’re quite new but I did one with my reactive pup and it was helpful and was good to chat to people i person.

It is a long road, there are no quick fixes and unfortunately I don’t think you can ever expect all the reactivity to turn off completely. Being that person who can just sit in the pub or coffee shop with a dog sleeping quietly at your feet may just be an unrealistic pipe dream.

My girl is now 8 years, I’ve not even had her a year, she was a private rehome not from DT, but her trauma has been years in the making. She did use to live with another dog, and spent time with larger dogs when her previous owner was at work, unfortunately I think all those dogs would send her flying, she’s only a Chihuahua cross, so at this point it’s PTSD for her.

IngGenius · 22/10/2023 20:59

Just from reading you post it does sound like your dog is having a lot of opportunities to lunge and react.

I would be working very hard to have limited interactions with dogs for quite a while and make sure all interactions (even if the dog is a long way away) are positive and your dog has no need to interact or react.

Engage/disengage will only be successful if done under threshold. if the dog reacts you are not going to move forward.

HappiestSleeping · 22/10/2023 21:05

Whereabouts are you in Hampshire?

Reasonistreason · 22/10/2023 21:12

HappiestSleeping · 22/10/2023 21:05

Whereabouts are you in Hampshire?

I'm near Winchester.

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villainousbroodmare · 22/10/2023 21:13

Don't walk on streets. Go somewhere you can see all around you and avoid other dogs.

Reasonistreason · 22/10/2023 21:15

IngGenius · 22/10/2023 20:59

Just from reading you post it does sound like your dog is having a lot of opportunities to lunge and react.

I would be working very hard to have limited interactions with dogs for quite a while and make sure all interactions (even if the dog is a long way away) are positive and your dog has no need to interact or react.

Engage/disengage will only be successful if done under threshold. if the dog reacts you are not going to move forward.

I do attempt to avoid ddog reacting on walks. But sometimes it's impossible to avoid all dogs. I can use engage/disengage (and DT have told me I'm doing it correctly) but she has started to react immediately rather than look at me for treat.

She's very happy off lead with all dogs. It's just the pavement walks which are the problem.

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Reasonistreason · 22/10/2023 21:16

Bunny geek- I'll contact dogs trust again and ask about these classes. Thank you.

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Ostryga · 22/10/2023 21:18

Does she have spaniel in her at all? They’re horrors on the lead no matter how well you train them.

Best thing for training is to do it when she doesn’t have a chance to react. So into car, drive to secluded area and train there. Then you very slowly introduce things that make her react.

If she’s reacting all the time you aren’t going to have a hope in hell in catching her before she’s reached her limit. You need her calm and watching you with zero distractions to even start with training.

Do you have somewhere you can go to get started?

HappiestSleeping · 22/10/2023 21:29

Reasonistreason · 22/10/2023 21:12

I'm near Winchester.

I am not far from you. Happy to bring my dog for controlled sessions if it would be useful?

Reasonistreason · 22/10/2023 21:55

Happiestsleeping thank you for your kind offer. I'm going to contact DT again and see what they say. Can I get back to you?

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Reasonistreason · 22/10/2023 22:02

Ostryga · 22/10/2023 21:18

Does she have spaniel in her at all? They’re horrors on the lead no matter how well you train them.

Best thing for training is to do it when she doesn’t have a chance to react. So into car, drive to secluded area and train there. Then you very slowly introduce things that make her react.

If she’s reacting all the time you aren’t going to have a hope in hell in catching her before she’s reached her limit. You need her calm and watching you with zero distractions to even start with training.

Do you have somewhere you can go to get started?

Yes we were told probably beagle/spaniel cross! Lead walking isn't perfect by any means but acceptable to me. It's the reactivity that's the real issue.
She doesn't react ALL the time, but has definitely regressed and is reacting quicker. I use a "find it" or scatter feed depending on the situation.
I do attempt to walk her so that we don't come across other dogs, using "this way" to turn quickly in opposite direction. Sometimes it's just not possible to avoid dogs - they come round corners or out of their drives. I actively try to avoid dogs on our walks. Mainly because it's so stressful for both of us.

OP posts:
Reasonistreason · 22/10/2023 22:12

IngGenius · 22/10/2023 20:59

Just from reading you post it does sound like your dog is having a lot of opportunities to lunge and react.

I would be working very hard to have limited interactions with dogs for quite a while and make sure all interactions (even if the dog is a long way away) are positive and your dog has no need to interact or react.

Engage/disengage will only be successful if done under threshold. if the dog reacts you are not going to move forward.

I had successfully managed to use engage/disengage for about a year but was never able to decrease the distance between ddog and other dogs. I realise how important it is for ddog to be under threshold and my aim for all our walks is to avoid her reacting. All her walks aren't pavement walks but they are the most problematic.
I do appreciate it's a long haul with reactivity but I have been working on it for the last 2 years and had hoped to be in a better position than I am. It's a good job she's so lovely!

OP posts:
Reasonistreason · 22/10/2023 22:16

Has anyone any behaviourist recommendations for future reference?

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HappiestSleeping · 22/10/2023 22:24

Reasonistreason · 22/10/2023 21:55

Happiestsleeping thank you for your kind offer. I'm going to contact DT again and see what they say. Can I get back to you?

Of course. Just let me know.

Wolfiefan · 22/10/2023 22:33

Have a look at FB group dog training advice and support. They can offer advice, have files that may be relevant and can suggest really good behaviourists too.

IngGenius · 23/10/2023 08:43

HappiestSleeping · 22/10/2023 22:26

As for behaviourists, I'd give Aidan at Alleywags a try.

https://www.allywags.com/

He is not a behaviourist but a trainer. He has no level 5 qualifications

He has been on International canine Behaviourists talks but has no behavioural qualifications.

OP if what you are doing has not changed the behaviour then you are not "doing it right for your dog" If your dog is reacting quicker then you have to increase the distance before your dog will be able to engage disengage.

If you carry on doing the same things you will get the same results. It may only be a subtle change but you do need to change something.

If reactivity has ramped up then a vet check may be a good idea, ask for blood tests, and urine tests not just a hands on physical check.

A small amount of pain or discomfort will ramp up reactivity symptoms in many dogs.

Behaviourists nearish you but good ones!
https://www.tailswewin.dog
https://www.natdogs.com
https://www.petconsultant.co.uk/
https://www.dogcommunication.co.uk/

Dog Communication – Just another WordPress site

https://www.dogcommunication.co.uk

Reasonistreason · 23/10/2023 12:44

Thank you IngGenius. Weirdly this morning ddog pulled one of her front paws away when I tried to dry it after walk. I'll be booking vet appointment asap.
Also thanks for behaviourist recommendations. I will contact them to get an idea of their charges and maybe after Christmas I can look at seeing one of them.
I've also gone back to basics on walks re engage/disengage.

Thanks all for advice. Sometimes you know what needs to be done but it can get a bit overwhelming and you need a push in the right direction.

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