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Original poster

Tips for good recall

23 replies

dogglebox · 22/04/2023 09:27

Experienced dog owners....What have you found the most effective for training good recall?

Any particular methods, really good treats? I have a five month old lab cross and have had her off lead in fairly quiet places since she was allowed out (I have actually had a dog before and I don't recall having any recall issues, must have got lucky with her)

She's been pretty good, and has been coming back to the whistle if I spot another dog (if the other dog is off lead and the owner is happy with it I've allowed her off lead again to play) however we've been away this week and she's gone selectively deaf a few times.

I don't want it to become a big issue so I'm after some top tips.

OP posts:
Newpeep · 22/04/2023 09:32

Reward check ins. Pup looks at you ‘YESSSSS GOOOOOD GIRLLLLLLL!!’ With open arms and when she comes flying back THE BEST treat. Repeat repeat repeat. I don’t teach a formal recall as such. I reward dog for CHOOSING to be with me. I have had terriers 😉 You have to make it worth their while. It will be a work I’m progress and we use a long line in situations where we’re not sure.

Mindymomo · 22/04/2023 09:35

They do, in our case, have selected hearing at around the 6 month mark. Our Border Collie is nearly 5 years old and we still work on recall most days. He is perfect with my DH, me not so much, he will come back when we are alone, but if he sees a dog, particularly one he knows, his recall goes out the window. He ran off at 6 months old as something spoked him, we were in farm land behind our house and he ran home. After that he was only let off lead in secure places and it took a while for us to trust him off lead.

Frances24 · 22/04/2023 09:39

Really tasty treats definitely make a difference. Cocktail sausages chopped up tiny are good, my dog will barely leave my side. Lots of fuss and a treat everytime they come back to you (even if you haven’t called them back).

I’ve also found that if my dog has turned his selective hearing on then turning around and looking like I’m going to walk back the other way will make him think about it and then come back to me

Original poster
dogglebox · 22/04/2023 09:45

I'm having to be a bit careful with treats at the moment because of a sensitive stomach, which isn't helping. I'm sure chicken will be fine though.

I'm already rewarding every check in, loads of praise, reinforcing the recall all the time so sounds like I'm doing all the right things. I'm just very conscious of her potentially running up to another dog and not being welcome (there is a strong "all dogs should be on leads" brigade on MN)

OP posts:
Newpeep · 22/04/2023 11:22

Shit happens. If she does that, apologise and move on. Dogs aren’t robots. Even the best trained have their deaf ears on from time to time.

You’re doing all the right things. Lucky pup.

ModerationInEverything · 22/04/2023 11:26

I found the book Total Recall by Pippa Mattinson (I think) really good. Simple concepts but basically success comes down to practise on a variety of situations.

Saucery · 22/04/2023 11:27

Changing direction is a good way to make sure they keep checking in, but never do the “Bye then!” thing and run away if their attention has been caught by another dog or Interesting Person. Go after them, keep your voice light and cheery (bit of a struggle when they are being a cloth-eared dickhead, I know) and reinforce that they are with You and being with You brings the reward of attention/a treat.

coffeecupsandwaxmelts · 22/04/2023 12:17

She's coming into her adolescent phase which typically means that no matter what training you've done, recall goes out the window for a while.

For now I would be focusing on management, which means attaching a long-line to her harness so that even if she does ignore you, she can't physically run off and have fun with another dog. If she learns that ignoring you means she can have loads of fun, the more likely she is to continue ignoring you, if that makes sense.

If you use a long line, you can stamp on it and prevent her from running off - her options will then be to stand there (boring!) or come back to you for treats/fun/praise/fuss. You want her to choose you every time, so you need to make the alternative really boring and unfulfilling.

Luckydip1 · 22/04/2023 12:21

If you call for them to come to you, don't walk towards them at the same time but instead start walking backwards, this makes it less confusing for the dog.

Lastqueenofscotland2 · 22/04/2023 13:00

coffeecupsandwaxmelts · 22/04/2023 12:17

She's coming into her adolescent phase which typically means that no matter what training you've done, recall goes out the window for a while.

For now I would be focusing on management, which means attaching a long-line to her harness so that even if she does ignore you, she can't physically run off and have fun with another dog. If she learns that ignoring you means she can have loads of fun, the more likely she is to continue ignoring you, if that makes sense.

If you use a long line, you can stamp on it and prevent her from running off - her options will then be to stand there (boring!) or come back to you for treats/fun/praise/fuss. You want her to choose you every time, so you need to make the alternative really boring and unfulfilling.

Yes I agree with the long line tip and this entire post.

No dogs are not robots but you aren’t going to be popular if you are letting your dog run up to on lead dogs (or unable to call him off on lead dogs).

Timeforachangeisitnot · 22/04/2023 13:06

Treats are generally easy for labs, but like you, I have one with a sensitive tummy.

I find that her ball is a great reward - she is a bit obsessed. But she only gets to keep playing with it if she brings it straight back to me when I whistle.

Oh I also find the whistle works better than a call.

My male lab loves the open arms thing - and nothing feels better than having him hurtle towards me with a stupid grin on his lovely face.

Showersugar · 22/04/2023 13:11

Mine isn't very food orientated - for me the best technique is engagement so lots of cuddles before she goes out and cutesy good girl chat as I'm getting her lead on. Once we're out I ask her what she's sniffing (just innane doggy chatter basically), give her lots of smiles when she looks back at me, and effusive praise when she actually responds to my recall. She's very relational my girl!

ImAGoodPerson · 22/04/2023 13:36

Luckydip1 · 22/04/2023 12:21

If you call for them to come to you, don't walk towards them at the same time but instead start walking backwards, this makes it less confusing for the dog.

This works really well for my dog. His recall is sketchy, he's just so happy and away with the fairies but if I run backwards he'll come to me. I am using it to mark his behaviour and incorporating the word come when doing the training with him.

pastypirate · 22/04/2023 13:48

My advice is don't let anyone mess with the training. The rest of the family need to use exactly the same words as you and copy you and be completely consistent - in every command situation not just recall. Dogs are quite easy to train if they understand exactly what's expected of them.
Letting the dog off if he doesn't comply needs to be avoided.

My spaniel is pretty good but if he ignores me more than a couple of times I might put him back on the lead the rest of the walk if he can't listen. The running free is the great imo.

Lastly when they comply really well you need to praise them like it's the greatest thing they have ever done - I really had to learn that with my boy and then suddenly teaching him all sorts was really easy.

EdithStourton · 22/04/2023 13:54

Recall can be very situation-sensitive. You can think you've nailed it, and then you go somewhere that has deer...

One thing I would say is that if you are ever likely to walk your dog near sheep, get some stock training done. Being on lead in the field isn't necessarily enough. A lead can be yanked out of your hand in a millisecond, and sheep have a tendency to escape and end up where you don't expect them (on the footpath, even, when you didn't even know that there were some the other side of the hedge).

ruthieness · 22/04/2023 13:58

Also Practice recall in the house every 10 - 15 minutes all day every day until it is a reflex - use half the dogs normal food as treats!

Sapin · 22/04/2023 13:59

Get Pippa Mattinson’s book Total Recall. She has a complete training system for this that is easy to follow. I did it and have two lurchers with great recall.

lljkk · 22/04/2023 14:06

Lurcher I walk doesn't care about treats.

Whistling didn't work with her either. She pays attention, but not much. I've met some dogs that respond well to whistles, though.

Lurcher does react to firm voice, though. And lovey head scratches afterwards. This is best strategy with her.

So I find it depends on the beast. Most like treats so that's great if it's so easy.

IngGenius · 22/04/2023 17:26

I think that most people think that recall is an exercise that needs to be taught outside and when the dog is at a distance to you. This approach will make recall very hit and miss.

Recall needs to start inside (from day one) when your dog is close to you.

Say a word, blow a whistle but choose your recall cue. eg Come. Inside with your dog looking at you say come and give a treat. If you start when very little this can just be their food allowance. If you are feeding kibble that will be a lot of recalls a day! If feeding raw that will also be a lot of spoonfuls of food. Do it with every meal.

Then you can build up to throwing the food out from you, the dog will go and get it and as they turn to reorientate to you (they will because it is a fun game and they will want more food) so as they are already coming towards you say come and reward when they return to you. Then throw food out and repeat.

Initially do not throw the food very far. Over time you can throw the food as far as you can and always cue come when they are already coming to you.

Over time you can take your food throwing into the garden, out on your walks, when other dogs are around etc etc and you will begin to proof your cue word.

Then just build up the distractions, the distance you call them from. Always reward a recall - dont be tight always reward. Reward may change from food to a toy or praise but always make sure it is the reward your dog loves.

Focus is also really important for dogs and you need to work on that out and about before you start to trust your recall. So as New peeps says every time your dog checks in with your reward every single time. No pottering on your phone, chatting to friends concentrate on your dog and reward every single check in.

Technically recall should be taught using classical conditioning and not operant conditioning which is what many people tend to do and then it so easily become every hit and miss.

IngGenius · 22/04/2023 17:30

lljkk · 22/04/2023 14:06

Lurcher I walk doesn't care about treats.

Whistling didn't work with her either. She pays attention, but not much. I've met some dogs that respond well to whistles, though.

Lurcher does react to firm voice, though. And lovey head scratches afterwards. This is best strategy with her.

So I find it depends on the beast. Most like treats so that's great if it's so easy.

This is very common and also a reason why recall should be started at home in a quiet non distracting environment. Treats may still not be the reward of choice but they be more interesting at home than out and about.

One of my puppies loved a dustpan and brush so his recall started with come cue and then a chase of the brush on the floor. Yep I did take it out and about when he was little but then use the brush to train treats as a secondary reinforcer which made life easier for me.

Another puppy loved a flower pot on a piece of string that was his reinforcer for a while.

But do start on the recall in a quiet boring area and the reinforcers will become more powerful.

If I had a lurcher I would probably start with a rabbit tug

Spanielsarepainless · 22/04/2023 17:59

IngGenius · 22/04/2023 17:26

I think that most people think that recall is an exercise that needs to be taught outside and when the dog is at a distance to you. This approach will make recall very hit and miss.

Recall needs to start inside (from day one) when your dog is close to you.

Say a word, blow a whistle but choose your recall cue. eg Come. Inside with your dog looking at you say come and give a treat. If you start when very little this can just be their food allowance. If you are feeding kibble that will be a lot of recalls a day! If feeding raw that will also be a lot of spoonfuls of food. Do it with every meal.

Then you can build up to throwing the food out from you, the dog will go and get it and as they turn to reorientate to you (they will because it is a fun game and they will want more food) so as they are already coming towards you say come and reward when they return to you. Then throw food out and repeat.

Initially do not throw the food very far. Over time you can throw the food as far as you can and always cue come when they are already coming to you.

Over time you can take your food throwing into the garden, out on your walks, when other dogs are around etc etc and you will begin to proof your cue word.

Then just build up the distractions, the distance you call them from. Always reward a recall - dont be tight always reward. Reward may change from food to a toy or praise but always make sure it is the reward your dog loves.

Focus is also really important for dogs and you need to work on that out and about before you start to trust your recall. So as New peeps says every time your dog checks in with your reward every single time. No pottering on your phone, chatting to friends concentrate on your dog and reward every single check in.

Technically recall should be taught using classical conditioning and not operant conditioning which is what many people tend to do and then it so easily become every hit and miss.

Beautifully explained. I advise rewarding each and every recall for longer than you would think. Also your dog is on the cusp of his teenage phase, but keep plugging in and it will come good.

KILM · 22/04/2023 18:03

JR Pet Products pure meat pate - perfect for sensitive stomachs and you just cut it up into cubes - soft and has a slight smell so is perfect for recall training - our dog can't handle rich treats or human sausage etc, it's well worth a try.

villainousbroodmare · 22/04/2023 18:10

Often the best reward is to be allowed instant freedom again.
Hiding and reversing and being a little bit unpredictable in your movements makes a fun game out of "be near me".
A huge grin when your dog glances at you is a good connector as a pp said.
I love The Pet Gundog by Lez Graham.

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