How to improve recall when *I don't have anything he wants?*

[iloveeverykindofcat]

The skinny rescue corgi is no longer a skinny scraggly fox. He is now a lean, muscled, bouncing machine. The vet says he's in perfect shape. Got a little round corgi booty with distinct glutes. Fur still tends to dryness but I think that's just the texture.

Ever since he decided that other dogs are not a threat but in fact the funnest thing to ever exist, recall has been going downhill. The problem is that when he's playing with another dog, I don't have anything to tempt him with. Playing with other dogs is better than praise or fuss. He doesn't care about food or treats much at the best of times, and in any case, he's not a dog that can eat anything, he needs a fairly limited diet to keep his digestive system healthy. How can I improve his recall when I don't have leverage? With our Pembroke, all you have to do is yell, 'What's in the pocket?' and she's there like a shot, because that means you've got a treat for her (or you might have).

Squeaky ball? You can then clip the line on or pick it up or whatever, and let him chase it for a reward.

@iloveeverykindofcat someone above mentioned the JR pate - they do a salmon version and you can cut up tiny.
I also have a small squeaky ball in my pocket as mine prefers a ball to treats too.

We trained our patterdale x to recall using balls , he is not remotely food orientated but loves a ball , we don’t allow them in the house so they maintain their fascination

Definitely keep him on a longline while you work through this. Every time he gets to run up to dogs to play, he’s getting to reward himself. If this doesn’t change, he won’t improve. Preventing him rehearsing ignoring you is the absolute priority
A few extra pointers…..
Take him out hungry. Ie switch his meals times around and find something brilliant (jr pate as above is a good shout for this) don’t use this special treat for anything other than walks/recalls.
Building up a toy drive is also worthwhile but don’t expect it to work against distractions without building up to them. Find a toy he loves, but only let him play with it on walks. If it’s always available, he will likely ditch it in favour of a new friend!
Recall loads and loads on walks, not just when you need to. Corgis are smart, he will start scanning the horizon for dogs instead of listening if you only call him when there’s something there! Reward with play, treats, cuddles,games, bits of fun training….mix it up and keep him guessing. He should never be able to weigh up if it’s ‘worth’ coming back. Throw in the occasional big jackpot reward here and there to keep him guessing.
The best reward? If he has a dog friend who’s owner will help you, practising some recalls on his longline away from the other dog (other dog on lead). If he does as he’s told, his reward can be some free time to play with his buddy.
hth

No ideas really but just wanted to say he is gorgeous. Nothing quite like a rescue dog 🐶

He is soooo handsome and you have done a wonderful job of rehabilitating him. I wish you many joyous years together

I have exactly the same problem with my corgi. I could have a steak in my hand and he’d still prefer his doggy pals. Treats he goes nuts for at home he spits out at the park. He has no interest in toys bar chasing them even a sheep skin thing from tug-e-nuff only worked a bit. So we stick to a long line.

Mine also has a sensitive tum which I think makes him less keen on food than most dogs.

Ok so...

This is not only a recall issue....

Treats toys pate etc are all using operant conditioning eg if I do something this will happen. So consequence to a behaviour. At the moment the consequence does not rate up there with playing with another dog

You need to classically train the recall - a whistle on its own is not a magic tool to make recall wark for a dog but if your classically condition it - it will be.

Think of other things your dog may have learnt without you teaching them eg my dogs will all run into the kitchen if I open the fridge (never taught them that they just know food may fall on the floor, they always run up to me when I pick up their leads). This is classical conditioning something happens and it always happens.

So pip on the whistle with the dog close to you in a quiet environment in your house immediately give the dog a treat do this over and over again. Always have the dog next to you. pip and food, pip and food say and ask for nothing. If you blow the whistle they must get food.

Slowly and gradually you will build up the distance eg have the dog the other side of the room, in another room, have treats on the side and the dog still comes to you. have the dog in the garden. When the dog consistently comes to you with the whistle in a quiet area you can add in distractions DO NOT blow the whistle when out and about when you know your dog will not come to you. Total Recall does this method and will break down the stages for you.

It works with all dogs if done correctly and at the correct pace for the dog.

However I know you had a shy rescue but you do not want your dog interacting with every dog they meet. Some dogs they can sit look and you and then their reward is to be released to meet the other dog if safe to do so and agreed with the other owner. Other dogs you recall your dog to you and have a game with each other as the other dog passes. Some dogs you ask your dog to sit whilst the other dog wakes passed.

You do not want your dog to see another dog and always interact with them.

Just steps onto soap box to say no dog or breed is stubborn, they may be distracted by the environment, owner asking them to do behaviours that are not train or inconsistent training. I am aware that many owners disagree with this but I will say it anyway with science and education on my side!

You do not want your dog to see another dog and always interact with them.

Totally agree with this. I aim for my (naturally over friendly) dogs to greet no more than a max of one in every ten dogs they encounter. It should imo be the exception rather than the rule. Even then, I prefer those dogs they meet to be the sane, polite, slightly indifferent ones rather than those who will high-octane it round and round like idiots.