9m old showing teeth when he doesn’t like something

[GiantCheeseMonster]

How do we deal with this? He’s a sprocker and definitely in full-on adolescent mode. He sleeps in his bed in our room at night. The other night he decided he wanted to be on the bed. DH told him to go to his bed and he ignored him, so DH went to lift him off and he showed teeth - just for a second. DH told him to go and he did. Then yesterday he was trying to get to the cat who was on the table so DS got his collar to move him and he physically put his mouth round DS’ other arm. Not a bite, just held it - DS stood still and dog stopped. I stress that I do not think the dog is aggressive, just that he is testing boundaries due to his age. We handle him in a positive way with treats etc (eg he goes in his crate for a biscuit when needed so is happy to go in) but obviously I don’t want him thinking this is acceptable behaviour as an adult dog. Any advice?

He is not testing boundaries he is just uncertain and unsure when he is being physically pulled.

To get him off the sofa get a treat and he will move to get the treat.

Practise collar touches, so have a treat and gently touch his collar. when he is happy with this and it may take time then you can put a bit of pressure on the collar whilst you are feeding.

Many dogs are uncomfortable with being pulled around to move

Sorry, I meant testing boundaries in that he’s previously had brilliant obedience (eg getting off the sofa as soon as he’s told) whereas now he just looks at us as if to say, “nah, I’m alright here.”

Yes, we’ll keep a stash of treats in the bedroom to make him get off the bed in future.

Eek - please stop physically moving your dog like that 😳 you wouldn't like it if something 5x your size picked you up or pulled your neck. The teeth and mouthing are warnings - if you continue they may well turn to snaps and bites.

If you need him to move then either use treats/toys, or have a house line clipped to his harness that you can tug on gently to encourage him off ☺️

I have two dogs. They are allowed on one of the sofas. They have both gone through brief phases of grumbling (not actual growling, just considering it) when being moved after being asked and refusing ('come, on, move over' with a hand signal - they knew what it meant, because they'd done it as requested multiple times before).

Any grumbling got an instant, 'Oh, no I don't think so!' in a bright jolly voice and the dog was moved. If they had tried snarling, they would have been off that sofa in two seconds, and not allowed back up for at least a few days.

Neither dog has EVER escalated to actual snarling or any use of teeth on a human (and nor did the previous two). They have all been high-drive working stock, including a JRT.

If you have a sprocker from working lines who is getting interested in your cat, you may find that chasing the cat is much bigger motivator (reward) than anything you can offer (cheese etc). You will need to make some boundaries very clear. Don't even think of chasing Tiddles... good boy, come here - and reward and praise.

These views aren't fashionable on MN, but I have two well-mannered dogs who know the rules.

During this phase it might be wise to keep a soft comfortable harness on him and have a lead dangling.

When you say no and he does nothing, pull him off without the possibility of getting bitten.

Absolutely vital to then reward his 'good behaviour' afterwards and he will soon get it.

Life is very confusing for adolescent pubescent dogs. Their life is filled with frustrations so a careful hands off but reward centred approach would work here.

I agree with harness and lead dangling.

Do not move him by the collar, lots of dogs don't like that and it can be quite forceful. Until he does as asked like he used to keep a lead trailing and use it as back up when he ignores or grumbles.

I had a golden retriever who was rather ferocious with his opinions as a youngster. He grew into a wonderful dog but we had a battle of wills for a good while! Lifting him or trying to move him would have made him very cross and rightly so really, when they get to a certain size you can't lift them comfortably especially if they don't want to be lifted!

And don't see using treats to get him to do x or y as rewarding him because it's not. It's convincing him to do what you want because he will be rewarded for doing what you want.

If you ever want to take a food or favourite toy away for example, you should offer a trade ie. Here take this treat and I'll take your toy/whatever you've scavenged that might kill you.

10m old whippet just been through that phase. Mostly grumbling when she was sleeping in an awkward place and needing moving ( yes we always woke her gently and made sure she wasn't startled beside trying to move her)... she just didn't see why she should move ! Fair enough but it was happening. Some very quick firm no's, seems to have done enough as it only lasted about a week and not done it for 2m now.

Thanks all, good advice. We do have a short house lead (basically a loop that clips on his collar) so we’re going back to using that on him, plus lots of treats.