Dogmatic, K9 Bridle or Canny Collar

[Jayne05]

Hi, I’m looking for some advice on which of these is most suitable for a lead reactive border terrier. He’s a big lad and lunges, spins and pulls on his Perfect Fit harness. I’m considering trying the head collar as a way to break his focus on whichever dog/lorry etc he’s barking at, and bring his attention back to me. Tbh walking him is very stressful and there are times I could cry with frustration as I see other people out enjoying the walk with their dogs without constantly being on watch for the next trigger. Thanks so much in advance, any advice is gratefully received

I use headcollars on all of mine but more as a backup than anything else as I walk multiple dogs. They do really help.

I like dogmatics, they seem the most comfortable and don’t move at all. They are expensive though.

The most effective one I found is the SWAG agility headcollar. It is a figure of 8 but never moves an inch and is nicely padded. The lead attaches at the back of the head so does not pull the head/ neck round. It does however tighten when the dog pulls so it could be classed as adversive. I have my German shepherds on them and they don’t mind them at all.

On another note, have you got a trainer that could help you? A headcollar will help in the short term but it’s best to get help with the original issue at the same time

Thanks for your reply and advice. We have had one to one sessions with a behaviourist but the head collar is more for his (and my!) safety whilst we continue with the training. Thanks again that’s very helpful 🙂

Canny collar and K9 bridle will pull your dogs head either up or down and not turn the dogs head very well as the lead is attached to the back of the head. I dont like the figure of 8 under the dogs mouth on the K9 bridle which tightens when pulled. Both depending on your dogs face shape can move into the dogs eyes.

Dogmatic if fitted correctly and worn with a double lead with one end of lead attached to the harness will allow you to turn your dogs head in a more natural body position. It does tighten on the mouth as you pull on it though which I dont like. However you can cut a bit of the head collar to stop this happening. However they do not fit all head shapes.

Figure of 8 harnesses cause massive tightening around the dogs neck so using one with an already over aroused reactive dog will just make the dog feel worse. You may have control of your dog but your dog will not be enjoying the siutation as it will cut down on the ability to breath correctly.

I do understand the need to keep you and your dog safe but if your dog is regularly reacting you may need to look a places you walk etc.

You want a reactive dog to have walks without the need to react. I do totally understand how difficult this is and also do understand your need to have a safety net eg the headcollar.

How many understands can I put into one post but I do!

Are you clipping him on both front and back clip on the Perfect Fit harness?

No that’s fine, I suppose I’ve reached the end of my tether and don’t know what else to do. He’s such a lovely dog in the home and with dogs he knows but he becomes uncontrollable in certain situations. I have a double clip lead but haven’t really mastered using it. Obviously I don’t want to hurt him and will avoid anything that seems to. Thanks for your replies

I expect your behaviourist will stay stop walking for the time being.
Then build up by walking at very quiet places etc but ask them for advice
Training & activities at him can tire out as much as any walk can

At home*

Thanks @PineappleRingo we do have a couple of walk free days, it may be that we have to go right back to the beginning.

I would. I think when you are working on issues you want to keep everything super calm and settled. I’m sure it’s on here I read it can take 2 days to unwind.

Can the behaviourist help set up safe scenarios you can practise dog reactivity?

Our trainer holds group sessions and any reactive dog gets to be around other dogs in calm safe environments (they build up this, I should point out!) because we are all focused on our training most dogs settle quickly and learn to be calm around other dogs.

Echo PollyRouson too you need to find walks that have minimal things for ddog to react to. Make yourself the most exciting thing on a walk.

If you see another dog up ahead, about turn praise & treats etc scatter treats as you walk so they don’t know if they’ll get one from your hand or need to find it.
Use super amazing treats like cheese/ham/ liver cake and only use these on walks.

Good thing this is absolutely solvable!

Thank you @PineappleRingo, you’re literally the first person who has said this can be solved. I’m a bit emotional tbh 😭

Yes it absolutely is
You def need the right person to help, I really recommend the easy peasy puppy squeasy book and Facebook group is very supportive with great ideas x

OP I totally agree with PineappleRingo this can be worked through and you will see a huge improvement in your dog with the right support.

I will get on my soap box and sing the praises and brilliance of all reactive dog owners who put themselves on an emotional rollercoaster for the sake of their dogs. It is hard, it is lonely but I for one do really take my hats off to you all.

It is rarely the owners fault the dog is reactive, (loads of reasons why but usually breeding and genetics) yet they have to listen to everyone who has the answer and knows what to do with their dog! The owner will have put in hours and hours of training and time into their dog and it is not recognised enough.

to all reactive dog owners you are really fab owners.

cheers to that @PollyRoulllson

Oh thank you @PollyRoulllson and @PineappleRingo. It really does feel like a battle I’ll never win. Probably wasn’t helped by us having our behaviourist consult sessions over zoom so no practical bits. Can it really be solved with treats and distractions? I know he’s not popular on here but we see that Graham chap on the telly who seems to solve every problem the same way…a tug on the lead and saying “no”. I really don’t want to use a head harness, would the double clip lead on his harness be as effective? Sorry, so many questions but it has honestly caused me so much sadness these past couple of years because he really is a lovely dog 😢

Yes it absolutely can!
What you need to be is the most fun thing on a walk so the focus is on you.

So for example for the dog bit, you are aiming for a neutral response from your dog.

This is how I would approach the dog reactivity and would prob do the same with cars for now tho avoid cars if possible as once you’ve got the focus it’ll be the same as dogs.
I would do focus training at home, lots of focus lots of you being the most fun (and having yummy treats). Heel work round the house with lots of sits and downs as you go. make it fun but make being with you means lots of nice things happen.

Then when walking practise heel work initially with treat on nose then building up to every few steps but keep walks super short etc literally ten steps then back doesn’t need to be a loop or anything like that.

If you see another dog coming about turn and be fun scatter some treats, wave a toy anything to distract.

The idea is eventually your dog seeing another dog means they look at you because you are much more fun.

You don’t want to punish them as it can make it more stressful. Another dog = cross mummy and a tug. You want another dog to mean treats and fuss from you.

But I would just go back to basics and have fun then build back from there.

Just my preference a harness allows them to move 360 which can make it harder to hold them so I would swap with a normal lead and collar.

Thank you so, so much for all your advice. I will take it on board and try to get back some positivity that has been sadly lacking recently. 💐💐

I agree about general focus but to change your dogs behaviour you do need to change your dogs emotions when they see dogs.

So distraction is a tool when you are in a difficult situation but you want your dog to see other dogs and alter how they feel about them.

So when your dog is underthreshold (this is the hard bit as to start with you may need to be a long way away from the dogs) mark and treat your dog the minute they see another dog. Ideally they will not be reacting but even if they are offer a treat and move away. You are not training a behaviour so are not rewarding the reaction you are changing what your dog feels.

Over time your dog will see another dog and turn to you for a treat. They your dog will see a dog and think fab good things happen and will continue to turn to you for a treat.

It works , it takes time and somedays it will feel like you have made no progess but when you look back at it over time you will see a hyge improvement.

I would recommend a good qualified trainer or behaviourist to help you with timing etc to start with as it is easier for someone else to see how and when your dog is beginning to react.

Also be gentle on yourself if you dont feel in the mood for the training have a day off dont go for a walk but have some scent games etc at home and just chill. A couple of good sessions is way better than feeling this has to be done ever day etc.

It is rarely the owners fault the dog is reactive, (loads of reasons why but usually breeding and genetics)
I'd add early neuter of nervous dogs to that list.

That was a really kind post, @PollyRoulllson - having had a reactive dog, yes, it is bloody hard work, can be stressful and demoralising. Ours improved a lot over the course of his life.

And OP, things can definitely improve. It's actually very rewarding when you can look back and see how far you have come. Ours ended up able to mingle in a group of six or eight dogs, though he never really liked strange dogs.

Any and all bits of dog equipment (even a plain old flat collar or bog standard harness) can be used aversively and none are perfect.

Everybody praises the Dogmatic so much but the metal rings which join the noseband to the headpiece will be pinching your dog's lips at the corner of his mouth at some point whether you mean it to happen or not.

Some dogs won't be as sensitive as others are to pressure in different places. If you want to use a headcollar, I'd try one of each until you find the one your dog accepts most easily and is most comfortable in.

Yes, those with a martingale action at the back of the neck do tighten - if the dog pulls or tries to escape. If he doesn't, it's inert. That style tend to stay in place better on the dog's face without riding up into the eyes or twisting sideways, which is what a Halti can do.

They all have pros and cons but see which suits your dog best rather than other people's dogs. You can always sell the failures on, or maybe ask your trainer if they have headcollars you can try.

@Shambolical1 if the dogmatic is fitted correctly the metal bands will not pinch the dog in anyway. They do not move at all, they keep the harness in the correct position without tightening that section that is the whole point of them. Material would tighten but being a metal ring its shape does not alter or move when pressure is put on the harness.

The only section that tightens is the bit under the dogs mouth but that can be cut off.

@PollyRoulllson Correct - the rings themselves don't tighten, they are only there to hold the pieces of the headcollar together.

If, however, your dog moves his head quickly and tugs into the dogmatic while there is resistance (you holding the lead), or - worse - the handler jerks on the lead, then lateral movement will cause those rings to pinch in the same way that the rings or side pieces on a horse's bit will.

I'm sure it's not designed to do that but nevertheless it does and I've seen (and heard!) it happen with several dogs of different breeds and sizes.

As I said, what fits and suits one dog cannot possibly suit and fit all dogs. I'm not advocating any particular type or brand but just saying that what is comfortable for the dog is most important.

The Canny Collar has a plastic clip under the chin which can dig in and rub when the noseband is in use and the flat collar part of it sits very high on the neck right behind the dog's ears, which is also frowned upon by some but it can be very useful for big strong dogs in lead training.

The Halti twists and rides up and is fiddly to deal with quicky if your dog switches sides, since your lead must be in the right place to use it correctly without it twisting further. It's probably one of the more awkward types to use, particularly for beginner (or rough!) handlers but because it's everywhere you see a lot of twisty-necked squinting dogs.

And again, anything can be used aversively or become aversive depending on how and by whom it is used and in what situation.