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The doghouse

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6 month old British Bulldog

31 replies

Xtraincome · 28/03/2022 20:34

Help! Our beautiful boy is getting so strong and doesn't really give much of a toss about treats to help train him to stop pulling on the lead.

Please give me your best tips, tricks, harnesses etc for this. We need something beyond treats to train him out of this.

Thanks

6 month old British Bulldog
OP posts:
fairylightsandwaxmelts · 28/03/2022 20:36

What's he motivated by? Toys? Tugs? Praise? Squeaky balls? Human food? Cheese?

All dogs are motivated by something, you just have to find what works for yours and use it as an incentive.

Xtraincome · 28/03/2022 21:25

Oh maybe I will try pieces of cheese as a new training only treat!
Thanks

OP posts:
ThisisMax · 28/03/2022 21:55

Is he on your couch Shock? Have you done puppy basics, sit, stay, wait etc?

fairylightsandwaxmelts · 28/03/2022 21:57

@Xtraincome

Oh maybe I will try pieces of cheese as a new training only treat! Thanks
Primula in a tube is really good for teaching loose lead walking as you just need to hold the tube in your hand Grin
user3837313202 · 28/03/2022 22:22

We used the stop-start method.

Basically, you rely on the idea that the dog wants to go forward as quickly as possible, and being allowed to walk forward is the reward (no need to use treats).

If the dog starts pulling, you stop walking. Dog releases some tension on the lead, you start walking again. Repeat ad infinitum.

At first you will probably only walk forward one step before the dog starts pulling again. Eventually the dog will get the idea that the only way it'll be allowed to walk forward is on a loose lead.

Avoid the harnesses that claim they'll stop your dog from pulling. They don't work well, and all they do is inflict pain / discomfort on a dog that's pulling.

Girlintheframe · 29/03/2022 07:00

No advice, just wanted to say what a gorgeous squishy puppy 😍

PollyRoulllson · 29/03/2022 08:27

Start with training the postion eg by your legs
then add in movement eg you taking a step and him staying in position

He obvioulsy does eat as he is alive, so use his daily food allowance for short sessions for training.

Dont try to train this out on walks. Teach the behaviour in a quiet enviroment and then when he is good at it take it out and about.

alwayswrighty · 29/03/2022 08:29

Cheese, squeaky ball, etc. Train in the garden again and work your way outside with loose lead training (youtube).

Stunning pup!

Xtraincome · 29/03/2022 12:39

@ThisisMax yes he is Blush I know it's naughty but he only goes on there for cuddles with people- DD had ran off to get a snack

@user3837313202 will look at stop-start method too. He may be quite responsive to that

We have a very quiet path near our house by a churchyard and it will be perfect. Can start there and do 5 lengths of the path in training mode then carry on with his walk before he gets bored.

He absolutely loves his walks! We need a much stronger lead and harness as he is weighing in at 13kg already.

OP posts:
PugInTheHouse · 29/03/2022 12:58

Very cute, our pup is allowed on the sofa, I wouldn't have it any other way, he's part of our family Smile

I agree with previous poster, we did the stop/start way with no treats (our pup is massively food orientated but he behaves badly on purpose/pretends to do things to get treats so we had to try it instead of giving treats). Heel worked well with treats but not the general loose lead walking.

sillysmiles · 29/03/2022 13:01

@Xtraincome do you need to look at a harness that has a clip on the front, so when he pulls it turns him around. Otherwise the harness is only giving him something to pull against.

Stellaris22 · 29/03/2022 13:11

Stop/Start helped our dog as well, but it's a very slow process and everyone who walks your dog needs to do the same for consistency.

Ours is allowed on the sofa, she's a part of the family and we just have a washable sheet. Can't beat sofa dog cuddles.

Xtraincome · 29/03/2022 16:07

@sillysmiles I would prefer a collar but I think the breed needs a harness as they're so strong. I am going to buy a stronger harness- julius k9 are on my radar but expensive- just so he doesn't start panting as much from pulling like crazy.

Thanks again guys. You're giving me so much good info here. As DH gets back from work I will start again on the training.

Pic attached: he likes the heat from the tumble dryer.

6 month old British Bulldog
OP posts:
MuggleMadness · 29/03/2022 16:12

He is absolutely gorgeous!!!

MuggleMadness · 29/03/2022 16:12

As DH gets back from work I will start again on the training

Much more difficult than a dog!!

fairylightsandwaxmelts · 29/03/2022 16:13

I wouldn't use a JuliusK9 (or other similar shaped harnesses) as they restrict joint movement which is why they "help" with pulling.

You want an X or Y shaped harness - something like the Eagloo or RabbitGoo would be a good, inexpensive option (around £20), or you can try PerfectFit - it comes in three sections and you just replace the sections as the dog grows.

whenwilliwillibefamous · 29/03/2022 16:19

My dogs have a harness with d-rings at back and chest (lead attaches to both) and if they pull they end up going sideways. You could try it and see how if it's helpful for you and DDog or not. Sell the gear on if not.

Xtraincome · 29/03/2022 16:20

@MuggleMadness Grin he is more food motivated than the dog for sure. He's stopped smoking recently and is now getting a bit chunky- I love it!

OP posts:
PerpetualLurker · 29/03/2022 16:20

A non-tightening front ring harness will make it easier on your arm as you work towards loose lead walking via the stop-start method. I’ve used the Blue-9 Balance Harness with success, and the BullyBillows Tri Harness is also on my radar (the broader design would probably suit a bulldog well!). These are great harnesses even when the need to use the front ring diminishes. I would recommend using these harnesses with a double clip lead for optimum control.

I would personally recommend against the Julius-K9 harness (speaking as someone who’s owned several from the brand!). The PowerHarness design restricts will pull against the shoulder joints of your dog, and they’re also very easy for a dog to back out of.

sillysmiles · 29/03/2022 16:25

@Xtraincome but if the harness clips at the back it doesn't in any way help stop the pulling.

Look at this link

MrsWinters · 29/03/2022 16:41

Steer clear of the K9 harness, cleaver marketing but really bad for your dog.
If you try to start indoors, I use a sock and get my dog to follow that

certainshepherdpups · 29/03/2022 16:44

Your pup is ridiculously adorable!

I'm no expert but just wanted to share what works for me. I would work on having him walk next to you without the lead in the house and the garden. It's trickier if they aren't food motivated, but maybe he has a favourite toy that you can use. When he's happy to be beside you and reliably chooses that position, then you can add in a cue (we say, "With me"). Then after a while you can put the lead on. It all takes time.

Once he's on the lead you can choose a quiet area outside for training. The path by the churchyard sounds ideal. Choose a few points along the path with landmarks (a house or a particular tree or whatever). Then start walking. If he pulls, go back to the beginning. Try to reach the first landmark without him pulling but each time he pulls go back to the starting point. Once you can get to the first landmark without any pulling then move on to the second. Again, it takes time but I find this method works better than just stopping when the dog pulls.

Laptopsandmouses · 29/03/2022 16:46

Have you tried little bits of chicken?

BalladOfBarryAndFreda · 29/03/2022 16:50

Perfect fit or similar Y shaped harness with front and back ring attachment points. You can buy double ended leads (about £10 from Halti).

Plus loads and loads of patience. It is honestly a long and arduous process for a lot of dogs (mine included).

BalladOfBarryAndFreda · 29/03/2022 16:54

I find adding a clicker in with treats training is much more successful (click and give them a treat the second they perform the desired the behaviour). For some reason the clicker is a clearer form of communication than voice. Probably because the clicker is only used for reward based training, whereas we are always talking to our dogs.