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Help me selecting a puppy breed and share me your expirence about breeds u guys have

25 replies

Niel90 · 26/01/2018 15:43

Hello friends my cousin sis is planning to adopt her first baby puppy she has been interacting with lots of relatives who have pets to understand their expirence and take it as learning but still not able to get final conclusion of selection one breed

Her top priorities are : pug/beagle/french bulldog/cavalier spaniel

Other options : mastiff/golden retreiver

Finally we selected pug/cavalier spaniel / beagle

Can anyone tell me some personal expirence about these breeds and help suggesting a breed

Please friends I need advise my heart says a pug but I want to hear expirence of other owner who have these breeds

Thank you guys

OP posts:
SallyLockhartsDog · 26/01/2018 15:54

Please do not get a pug. Google pug health problems.

Beagles are great but need a lot of exercise and are great escape artists!

Spaniels are great first dogs and good with families too.

Have a look at the designer dog thread too - lots to think about with regards to puppy farms/over breeding and how great rescue dogs are!

Wolfiefan · 26/01/2018 15:59

I think you need to consider why these breeds would suit you. There's a massive difference between a pug and a mastiff. You seem to be considering image rather than practical things.
How much walking and training and grooming can you commit to? How much would you need to leave the dog?
Pugs and cavaliers both have massive health issues. Beagles need a ton of exercise.

MrsTerryPratchett · 26/01/2018 16:02

Rescue mutt here. Mutt is my favourite breed Grin

The beagle we dog sit is greedy, smelly, poorly behaved and not affectionate. I'm sure he's an exception...

Merrz · 26/01/2018 16:19

As Wolfiefan said, could you give us a bit more information about what you're hoping to get out of having a dog and what you can offer a dog?
For example Are you looking for a dog that will snuggle with you on the sofa all evening or a dog that needs a 3 mile hike every night?
How much time do you have to spend with the dog, how much space do you have, is it a flat with no garden or a country mansion with 3 acres of fields?

Atalune · 26/01/2018 16:23

pugs have been bred and bred and bred and as a result now have lots of health problems. Also they are notorious for coming from puppy farms Sad.

Beagles are a nightmare to let off the leash as they are hunting dogs and so tend to run and run.

What type of dog do you want for your lifestyle?

Walker?
Hairy and sheds lots?

Lap dog?

rightsaidfrederickII · 26/01/2018 16:46

I'd be thinking about things like

  • how much time does she have available to walk it? Daily, come rain or shine. It's important; PestDog is a small breed but if he doesn't get a lot of exercise (think 45 mins non-stop running) he's horrible and reactive (snappy++). Other dogs just couldn't keep up with our four hour weekend walks!
  • how much times is available for grooming
  • how much space you have in the house (mastiffs and tiny flats don't mix)
  • how much money is available, and how different breeds will affect costs. For instance, a pug or french bulldog will cost a lot in insurance and vets bills, whereas a mastiff will eat piles. A small mutt is likely to be cheaper in 'running costs'
  • how easy the breed is to train - some are harder than others!
  • temperament, particularly if she has kids. Some are placid, some can be a bit snappy.

This is a good starting point www.thekennelclub.org.uk/services/public/findabreed/Default.aspx but do also consider going to a rescue centre and saying what you're looking for in terms of the criteria above and seeing what they have; you might find a breed or mutt that you hadn't considered before, or a dog that is atypical for the breed but perfect for you.

Chippyway · 26/01/2018 17:35

Personally I think if your options are between so many breeds then perhaps you should wait until you find a breed that you absolutely would love

I mean, she’d like a pug but also considering a Mastiff?? Hmm they are COMPLETELY different dogs. How can you want either one of them?

I’ve always loved big dogs. I’ve always had boxers, gsd’s etc the ‘smallest’ dog I’ve had is a lab and they aren’t small. I know a lot about them breeds. To me, if someone wants a pug but would also like a mastiff, it screams ‘I don’t know much about either breeds I just like the look/sound of them two breeds”

Maybe it’s just me. But if she’d actually taken a long time to research into breeds that would fit her/her lifestyle she wouldn’t have so many breeds at the opposite end of the scale on her wish list

CapnHaddock · 26/01/2018 18:01

@CatchIt posted this brilliant post on another thread which is fabulous advice for anyone looking for a puppy:

I found this on a website on a particular breed I was looking at. It really struck with me on what to expect when looking for a puppy and contacting breeders. I know it's ping, but it's worth the read:

"Puppies are not interchangeable; one is not the same as the others. This is largely because every breeder has their stop-the-presses criteria for breeding or not breeding, and each has preferences for size, personality, working ability, etc. Breeder X’s “perfect puppy” is not the same as Breeder Y’s.

Stop looking for a puppy; look for a BREEDER. Make a personal connection with a breeder you feel shares your top criteria, and then wait for a puppy from them. Maybe they even have a litter on the ground, which is wonderful, but maybe they’re not planning anything for a few months. Or maybe they’re not planning anything for a year; in that case, ask for a referral to another breeder that shares those same priorities and has a similar (or just as good) personality and support ethic. However it works out, screen the breeder first, then ask about a puppy.

1b) EXPECT TO WAIT FOR A PUPPY. It’s VERY rare to wait less than a couple of months; four to six is normal. I’ve waited a year on a couple of occasions; no, even we breeders don’t walk through the field, able to pick puppies like tulips. We ALL have to wait, and we ALL have to get matched up by the puppies’ breeder.

  1. INTRODUCE YOURSELF THOROUGHLY. The initial e-mail should be several paragraphs long; block out at least an hour of quiet for the first phone call. When you initiate contact, clearly communicate three things: You are ready for a puppy, you are ready for a puppy of this breed, and you understand what sets this breeder apart from the others and you share that commitment. Specifically describe your plans for this puppy; be truthful. If you are not going to be able to go to four training classes a year, SAY SO. Don’t say “Of course, training is a huge priority around here,” or you’re going to end up with a puppy who’s flushing your toilet sixty times a day because he’s so bored and you’re not challenging him.

The ideal first contact e-mail usually goes something like

“Hi, my name is X and I’m writing to inquire about your dogs. I’ve been doing a lot of research on [breed] and I think they’re the right one for me because of [these four reasons.] I know puppies are a huge commitment, and I am planning to [accommodate that in various ways.] I’m approaching you in particular because of your interest in [whatever,] which is something I feel is very important and plan to encourage in [these three ways.]”

That’s the kind of e-mail that gets a response, and usually pretty quickly. If I get something that says “I hear you have puppies on the way; how much?” it goes in the recyle bin before you can blink.

2a) Bring up price either at the end of the first contact (if it’s been successful and you feel a connection to this person) or in a follow-up contact. It’s nice to say “If you don’t mind me asking, about how much are [breed]s in this area, if there is a typical price? I just want to be prepared.” The breeder will usually give you two pieces of useful information: Her price, and the median prices around you. That way, if you decide to go a different way, you know about what to expect. If the second person you contact names a price that’s double the median, try to discreetly find out why. A very difficult pregnancy, nationally ranked parents, a surgical AI, c-section resulting in very few live puppies, those are some reasons a breeder could be asking more and it’s reasonable. If there’s no real difference from the other breeders except price, think carefully.

  1. BE WILLING TO BE TOLD NO. Not every person is the right match for every breed. That’s just fact. There is no way on earth I could make our home appropriate for a Malamute puppy, and I’d have to lie through my teeth to get approved for one. And I have my entire life devoted to keeping dogs happy. I don’t expect you to have anywhere close to the obsession I have, so that means there will be some dogs that are just plain wrong for you. If a breeder says no, ask why. If the answers make sense, don’t keep calling people until you finally get one who will sell you a puppy of that breed. Go back to the drawing board and be very humble and honest with yourself about what kind of dog really would be right for you and your family.

  2. PLEASE DO NOT GET ON MORE THAN ONE WAITING LIST unless you are VERY honest about it. This goes back to rule 1. You need to understand that we think our puppy buyers are just as in love with the puppies as we are. We’re posting pictures, writing up instructions, burning CDs, researching everything from pedigrees to nail grinding, all so we can hand off this puppy, this supreme glorious creature of wonderfulness, with the absolute maximum chance that it will lead a fabulous life with you, and we’ve built all kinds of air castles in our heads about how happy this puppy will be, and what it will do in its life with you, and so on. Finding out that you had your name on four lists shows that you don’t realize that puppies are not packages of lunch meat, where getting one from Shaws is basically the same as getting one from Stop and Shop.

Also, as soon as your name is on one of our lists, we’re turning away puppy buyers. If we’ve sent ten people elsewhere because our list is full, and then suddenly you say “Oh, yeah, I got a puppy from someone else,” it really toasts our bread. So just BE HONEST. If someone came to me and said “I’m on a list with So and So, but she’s pretty sure she won’t have a puppy for me, and I’d love to be considered for one of your dogs and I’ll let you know just as soon as I know,” I’m FINE with that. I understand how this goes. It’s not a disaster for me to have a puppy “left over” at eight weeks because you ended up getting that So and So puppy; it’s just frustrating to have the rug yanked out from under me.

  1. PLEASE DO NOT EXPECT TO CHOOSE YOUR PUPPY. This one drives puppy buyers CRAZY. I know this, trust me. I have a lot of sympathy because I’ve been there. But the fact is that when you come into my house and look at the eight-week-old puppies and one comes up and tugs on your pant leg and you look at me, enraptured, and say “THIS IS IT! He chose ME,” I’ve been looking at people coming into the house all week, and every single time this same puppy has come up and tugged at them and every single one of them have said to me “THIS IS IT!”

What you are seeing is not reality. You are seeing the most outgoing puppy, or you’ve fallen in love with the one that has the most white, or the one that has a different look from the rest of the litter (when I had one blue girl puppy in a litter of black boys, every human that came in the house wanted her; when I had one black girl puppy in a litter of blue boys everyone kept talking about how much they loved HER), or the one that’s been (accidentally) featured the most in the pictures I’ve posted. Or, sometimes, you have a very good instinctive eye and you’re picking the puppy that’s the best put together of the litter. And that puppy, of course, is mine, and you’re going to have to pry him out of my cold dead hands.

My responsibility is not to make you happy. And that, dear friends, is why I am posting this now, and not when I have a bunch of actual puppy buyers around :D . But it’s the truth. My responsibility is to the BREED first. That’s why my first priority in placing puppies is the show owners, because they are the ones that will (if all goes well) use this dog to keep the breed going. It’s not that I like them better than I like you; it’s that I have to be extremely careful who I place with them so that they can make breeding decisions with the very best genetic material I can hand them. My second responsibility is to the PUPPY. I will place each puppy where I feel that it has the best chance of success and the optimal environment to thrive.

So while I do care, and I will try to take your preferences into account, do not expect to walk into my living room and put your hand in the box and pick whatever puppy you want. And do not expect to be given priority pick because you contacted me first; conversely, do not expect that because you came along late you somehow won’t get a good puppy. Sometimes the person who calls me when the puppies are seven and a half weeks old ends up with what I’d consider the “pick” for various reasons (sometimes because somebody called me up and said they’d gotten a puppy from someone else; see rule 4 above). I am going to try to do my absolute best to match puppies to owners as objectively as I can, not according to who called first.

When I was waiting for Clue, I think I initially called Betty Ann six months before she was born. I waited through two other litters, where Betty Ann thought she might have something for me but then in the end told me no. Then I waited until 8 weeks when she thought this one might really be the one, and then another two weeks until she made her final picks and sent me a puppy. I was about ready to vomit with the tension. I UNDERSTAND. But the rewards of waiting and being matched with the right puppy are greater than any frustration with having to sit with an empty couch for a few more months.

  1. ONCE YOU GET YOUR PUPPY, THERE WILL ONLY BE THAT PUPPY IN THE WHOLE WORLD. If you’ve been sitting around with your fingers crossed saying “Please, Molly, please, Molly, I only love Molly,” and I say “I really think Moe is the one for you,” you’re probably going to feel disappointed. But take Moe and go sit on the couch, and put your finger in her mouth, and realize that she has a really cool white toe on one foot but none of the other feet have white toes, and let her try to find a treat in your pocket, and I guarantee you by the time you’re five minutes out of my driveway Moe will be YOUR puppy. And a year later you may remember that you thought Molly was so pretty, but Moe… well, Moe could practically run the Pentagon she’s so smart, and her face turned out MUCH more beautiful than Molly’s did. And so on.

  2. PLEASE FINISH THE ENCOUNTER WITH ONE BREEDER BEFORE BEGINNING ONE WITH ANOTHER. If you end a conversation with me saying “Well, this just all sounds wonderful, and I’m going to talk it over with my wife and we’ll call you about getting on your waiting list,” and then you hang up and call the next person on your list, that’s not OK. If you don’t feel like you click with me, or you want to keep your options open, a very easy way to say it is to ask for the names and numbers of other breeders I recommend. That way I know we’re not “going steady,” and I won’t pencil you in on my list. If you are on my waiting list, and you decide that you don’t want to be anymore, call me AS SOON AS YOU KNOW and say “Joanna, I’m so sorry, but our life has gotten a little crazy and I need to be taken off the puppy list.” And I make sympathetic noises and take you off. If, then, you decide you want to get a different puppy, be my guest. Just keep me apprised and let me close off my commitment to you before you open it with another breeder.

…Which brings us to something that is super important and most puppy people don’t realize:

8 ) EVERY BREEDER KNOWS EVERY OTHER BREEDER. Now of course I don’t mean the bad breeders, but the show breeding community is VERY small and VERY close-knit. If you’ve been on my list for three months, I’ve kept in contact with you, I think you’re getting a puppy from me, I’m carefully considering which one to sell you, and finally I match you with a puppy when they’re eight weeks old, and THEN you e-mail me and say “Sorry, I got a puppy from Arizona, bye,” my instant reaction isn’t going to be “Oh noes!” My instant reaction is going to be “From Jill?” I probably e-mail Jill several times a year, if not several times a month, and I’m probably going to pick up the phone in the next sixty seconds and say, “Did you just sell a puppy to Horace Green from Topeka? Did you know that he put himself on my waiting list three months ago and has been saying all along how excited he is?” And two minutes after that she’ll get a call from Anne in Oregon and Anne will say “Did you just sell a puppy to Horace Green from Topeka? He’s been feeding me lines for eight weeks! I had a puppy ready to go to him next week!”

And we will take your name in vain, Horace Green from Topeka, and Jill will feel bad that she sold you a puppy, and oh the bad words we will say. And Horace Green from Topeka will be a topic of conversation at the next Nationals, and t-shirts will be made that say “DON’T BE A HORACE,” and someone will name their puppy Horrible Horace and everyone will get the joke and laugh.

In the end, “Be excellent to each other,” as Bill and Ted so correctly ordered us, is pretty much the paradigm to follow. If you err, err on the side of this being a relationship, not a transaction. Try to act the way you would with a good friend, not with an appliance salesman. And the ending will be as happy for you as it is happy for us"

Someone on my designer dogs thread suggested we have a pinned post here on the DogHouse. I know @vetinari has also posted some excellent advice. I'm going to email MNHQ and ask if we can have one

jemmstar1980 · 26/01/2018 18:07

All I know is beagles are a hound, they do not like to be left bored or will become distructive

ChocolateCrunch · 26/01/2018 18:11

Cavaliers have a lot of health issues, so only get a puppy from breeders who can give assurances regarding the parents and grandparents medical histories.

ThinkingQueSeraSera · 26/01/2018 18:11

All those are designer dogs aside beagles which suit packs and need a shit tonne of stimulation.

What are her criteria? Bizarre mix when you look at mastiffs and retrievers. Her favourites concern me - all over bread for fashion, many health issues

mimibunz · 26/01/2018 18:14

Cross bred pups from a local shelter are lovely in terms of health and temperament. Why can’t she adopt and save a life?

Atalune · 26/01/2018 18:15

Thank you for reposting 🙌🏼🙌🏼

Aurea · 26/01/2018 18:20

Check out insurance costs for each breed. They can vary enormously.

WeeMadArthur · 26/01/2018 18:36

Her top priorities are : pug/beagle/french bulldog/cavalier spaniel short nosed breeds are prone to serious health issues and struggle to breathe, plus as they are the current popular breeds they are more likely to be the product of puppy farms. Cavalier spaniels also have health issues, beagles are scent hounds and if let off lead can be very hard to recall.

Other options : mastiff/golden retriever a mastiff is not for a first time dog owner, if it isn’t trained well it will be more of a nightmare to handle due to its sheer size. Golden’s shed and are also large and bouncy, so again their training is very important

Finally we selected pug/cavalier spaniel / beagle if you are careful in reading up on hereditary issues and look carefully (via breed clubs or kennel club) to make sure that you have a responsible breeder who looks to breed out those conditions I think a cavalier is quite a good first dog as they are usually friendly, biddable and relatively small so no chance of getting dragged down the road like a mastiff or golden could.

A reputable breeder will question you about your home and family, whether the dog will be left alone during the day to make sure you are right for their dog. The breeder I got DDog from will only let you have a dog if someone is home all day (barring school run and popping to shops) and they said that if there were ever any issues they would take DDog back (over my dead body).*

I would recommend getting to Crufts to see Discover Dogs to meet up with some dedicated breeders who love their breeds and can give you the pros and cons of each breed. But don’t get a pug or French bulldog, they are cute but they really can’t breath as they should, it’s not fair on the animal.

Mulch · 26/01/2018 18:40

Pugs are basically deformed. Spend a day breathing through a straw and that's the life of a pug

Niel90 · 24/02/2018 04:02

Looks like these options have some health issues than please can anyone suggest me some options but I need puppy of small breed that's friendly with humans

OP posts:
FlippingFoal · 24/02/2018 04:48

What about a cardigan Corgi? I've met a few and they have all been lovely dogs

goo.gl/images/rZP1W6

Hoppinggreen · 24/02/2018 09:26

We have a Golden Retriever, he’s my 4th
As puppy’s they are big and bouncy with sharp teeth but eager to please and not too chewy, don’t suffer from separation anxiety.
He’s now 2 and a lovely family dog but muddy and hairy with a damaging tail. He loves everyone and everything but it’s not always mutual and his recall isn’t great so he’s on the lead a lot
One thing to bear in mind is that although they look like teddies they are big powerful dogs with big teeth and that needs to be respected.
My dog has hurt people before without meaning to, he can be gentle but when playing he can get carried away ( stops as soon as is told)
They are the only breed for me but I’m fully aware of the good, the bad and the ugly.

AvocadosBeforeMortgages · 24/02/2018 09:49

Looks like these options have some health issues than please can anyone suggest me some options but I need puppy of small breed that's friendly with humans

Almost every dog, with the right treatment and upbringing, has the capacity to be friendly with humans. Some more so than others (chihuahuas and Jack Russells have something of a reputation) but they all can

Have you tried the KC Breed Finder? It's a good tool to get you thinking about the other factors that influence whether or not a dog is right for you, such as exercise needs (underexercised dogs often become stir crazy and substantially less friendly -
I know mine does) www.thekennelclub.org.uk/services/public/findabreed/Default.aspx

Hoppinggreen · 24/02/2018 10:46

Thing is with picking a breed based on typical characteristics is that they are only typical not guaranteed.
You can get Jack Russells that are great with babies and don’t bark much and you can get Golidies that hate children.
Being friendly is mostly about upbringing and training rather than breed

OhWotIsItThisTime · 26/02/2018 08:35

How much time can she give to exercising and training? What care can she give it’s coat? Are there kids in the home?

Then decide.

Don’t get a beagle. They’re supposed to spend their time running, chasing scents. Don’t get a pug due to the overbreeding problems.

missbattenburg · 26/02/2018 10:15

If you need a small puppy then why have you composed the list you have? A mastiff is the very opposite of what you say you need.

In all honestly, your list reads like you've flicked though pictures and chosen on how the dog looks alone rather than considered the needs and temperament of the dogs.

How much exercise can you/your cousin/sis realistically give the dog?

How much dog training experience have you had and how much time can you dedicate to training the dog (for its lifetime)?

How much do you want to have to groom a dog? How much do you want to spend on professional grooming?

How much can you bear the cost of high vet bills or insurance?

What other people, dogs, animals will you expect the dog to socialise with?

How much time alone will you expect the dog to cope with - and from what age do you expect to leave it alone?

How much time will you have during the puppy years to spend with the dog?

coffeeagogo · 26/02/2018 10:44

Don't get a French bulldog as they are:

  1. Stubborn like you wouldn't believe
  2. Have serious health conditions which require diligence and money to manage (you can insure but they very quickly become uninsurable with long term conditions - diet, skin, breathing)
  3. Are being seriously overbred due to being the current 'must have dog'

If you are serious about a Frenchie check out French Bulldog Rescue GB on Facebook - they do amazing work with surrendered French bulldogs (usually due to health and behavioural issues) and then if you are STILL interested start researching breeders very very carefully as there are so many puppies coming from Europe with significant issues.

Cath2907 · 26/02/2018 15:31

We have a Bichon Frise puppy. He was chosen for the following traits:
Hypoallergenic and non-shedding, small, good with children, relatively low exercise requirements, moderately easy to train.

The downsides we were aware of;
high grooming needs, a breed prone to allergies, doesn't do well if left alone.

I am happy to spend the time on grooming and to pay for professional grooming regularly. I work full time from home so leaving him alone for long periods of time isn't necessary (although I hadn't realised he'd have to sit on my knee when I use the loo!) We got good insurance and I buy expensive dog food, hypoallergenic dog shampoos etc.. to reduce allergy risk.

I'd suggest you think about what you want in a dog aside from cuteness. Are you home all day, how much exercise can you do, how long is your patience!

Do you REALLY want a puppy? They are cute but they shit on your carpet and bite your ears and nose. We are 3 weeks in to owning ours and I am a dedicated toilet trainer (like a ninja of poo, shivering in the garden every half hour all day) and he still manages to have 1 accident per day. I was on my hands and knees scraping slightly runny dog shit off my lovely living room carpet this morning. He isn't even supposed to be in the living room on his own so how he snuck that one in I don't know! I had to send him on the school run with hubby today just so I could have a shower in peace - feels like forever since I've washed without a puppy sitting outside the cubicle yelling at me. He refused to nap in his bed earlier when I was on the phone until I finally picked him up and he fell asleep half on my lap and half on my desk with his nose on my spacebar! His saving grace is he sleeps 10pm to 7am but I am well aware that was never guaranteed and was prepared to get up every few hours all night for weeks on end. I love him to bits but he is hard hard work and he is low energy and tiny. I'd have never managed a collie or a beagle! He is currently under my office chair asleep farting quietly. Soon my DD will arrive home and he will go on the hunt for child toes to bite, toys to steal and generally terrorise her!

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