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If you're worried about your pet's health, please speak to a vet or qualified professional.

Our first ever puppy is coming home next week! We thought it would be Feb! Advice please.

73 replies

Astrosaurus · 13/10/2017 10:03

We have been on a waiting list for a cockapoo puppy. We found a lovely lady who only has two litters a year. We reserved a puppy for Feb. But someone just pulled out from taking a puppy ready next week and she's offered us the puppy.

I was going to do lots of research between now and Feb. To crate train or not to? How to prepare the house? What equipment we need? How to find a good training course?

I now have a week to prepare. What's a great place to find well researched info on the above questions? Any tips from others on here?

We are so excited!

OP posts:
Haint · 13/10/2017 22:51

You need an extra 15 hours in each day. Loads of baby gates. A degree in dog psychology. £50 worth of treats a week. High vis / head torch/ comfortable walking shoes and a properly weatherproof coat. A snuggly dressing gown, hard soled slippers. Thousands of poo bags. A carpet cleaner. Harness - dog games perfect fit is good . Lead. Bowl. Toys. A £££ diet that doesn’t give it runny poo. Enrichment toys like Kongs and kong wobblers and puzzle balls. Resilient kids who don’t mind being nibbled. Lots and lots of help and to join this Facebook group. An entirely minimalist home with nothing of value left anywhere and a resilient nature to exist for weeks without a god nights sleep. Myself, I think it’s weird keeping dogs in cages but thousands disagree. Bonne chance

SwimmingInTheBlueLagoon · 13/10/2017 23:06

Only 3 bitches? All breeding? What happens to them once they are past breeding? A bitch should only have 4 litters in her life and not on consecutive seasons.

Do they have any of the necessary health tests cornflake kindly listed for you. As cornflake said those really are the very basic essentials, preferably there are others you'd want them to have too.

SwimmingInTheBlueLagoon · 13/10/2017 23:09

Sorry typed that a while ago but hadn't clicked post - until now

Wolfiefan · 13/10/2017 23:13

I'm sorry but having KC papers means nothing. Microchipping is the law.
They come with a towel?!
You really don't seem to know what makes a good breeder.
Please see above re health tests.
Cross breeds can be very healthy BUT most come from disreputable back yard breeders who only care about the cold hard cash.

Astrosaurus · 13/10/2017 23:42

To be fair I don't know if she has two litters every year. I know she is having two litters this year and I know the botch who will birth the Feb litter has never had babies before (she is 3).

As well as Optigen there are eye tests.

This is a rather joy sucking thread and I am not an idiot who has done no research. I've seen these puppies grow up on the family kitchen much loved and sores upon. I feel v comfortable with my choice. I'm over and out but thanks for those of you who offered info and wisdom.

OP posts:
Astrosaurus · 13/10/2017 23:43

Oh dear. Bad typos. "Sores upon" was "doted upon"

OP posts:
Wolfiefan · 13/10/2017 23:45

Growing up in a kitchen doesn't make a good breeder.
Will you actually bother to check that the other health tests have been done. You may have done "research" but you don't seem to have much of a clue.
Wish these bloody cross breeds were monitored and the KC would grow some bloody balls.
Poor dogs.

ReviewTime · 13/10/2017 23:57

Excuse my ignorance and potential derailing of the thread, but what happens about pitfalls from having no tests etc when you get a rescue?

Do these things only affect pedigrees? Genuine question, I'm just starting out with research.

BiteyShark · 14/10/2017 00:17

OP I just posted a list of some essential equipment on the puppy survival thread. Personally I am so glad I crate trained and it's only now at 1 year old that I am thinking of ditching it but if was a life saver in the early days when you need a place where they are secure and safe. For trainers I have to say it took three attempts to find the right trainer for me and my dog so if you don't like the first you go to don't be afraid to try someone else. I also recommend 1-1 for any specific issues as you get so much more out of it than group sessions as it is tailored for you and your dog. Also pop over to the puppy survival thread when your pup arrives for support and tips.

CornflakeHomunculus · 14/10/2017 01:23

Excuse my ignorance and potential derailing of the thread, but what happens about pitfalls from having no tests etc when you get a rescue?

Basically you've just got to take the risk, especially if you're looking at getting a rescue puppy. Obviously the risk is lower when you're looking at adult dogs as you can get a better picture of their health and many heritable conditions (though not all by any means) do have an early age of onset.

It's not only pedigrees that can be affected by heritable conditions, crosses and mongrels can as well. The short answer is that, on average, mongrels are less likely to suffer from inherited health issues than pedigrees but they're not guaranteed to be free of them.

In reality though it's not quite that simple and, particularly with first crosses between two breeds, can be heavily dependent on exactly what breeds are involved.

mydogisthebest · 14/10/2017 09:00

Ok, if you are happy to take the puppy then you need to be prepared. Firstly I would definitely crate train. I had never used a crate until I got the dog I have now at 9 weeks. I live in a house that is impossible to make totally safe for a puppy so a crate was the safest option. He loves his crate and still sleeps in it all the time (he is 5 now). I had intended getting rid of it when he was 1 as it takes up a lot of room.

You need to think about where pup will sleep for the first week or so. He or she will likely cry for the first couple of nights as they are in a strange place and missing their mum and siblings. Me and DH did not want our pup in our bedroom so we took it in turns to sleep downstairs on the settee. We started with the crate next to the settee and when pup woke and cried we talked softly to him and stroked him through the bars. Most times he went back to sleep. If he didn't we took him in the garden assuming he needed to toilet.

A young pup needs about 5 meals a day. We fed things like porridge, scrambled egg for 1 of his meals. We also gave him goats milk - dogs should not have cows milk. After they have eating go outside in the garden with them and when they pee or poo give loads and loads of praise - "Oh good girl/boy" etc. If you see them start to toilet indoors pick them up and take them outside and again loads of praise as they do it outside. Don't ever tell them off for going inside. I personally do not recommend using puppy pads or newspaper as it teaches the pup to go inside and you have double the amount of training. You may be lucky and have a dog that learns quickly. My dog was clean within a week but I have had previous dogs that have taken much longer (the worst was one that took almost 6 months to be totally clean indoors). It is frustrating if they are slow learners but they will get there

Start teaching commands like sit, stay etc early on. Have short teaching bursts and, again, lots of praise. Never be negative even if it seems they are not getting it. Very young dogs tends to picks things up quickly though. My dog learnt to sit in about 2 hours and he is a breed that is supposedly thick!

I would buy a harness. I find them easy to use when walking. They are far more difficult for a dog to wriggle out of than an ordinary collar plus if a dog pulls when walking and puppies often do it can cause damage to their throat.

I practiced lead walking indoors and in the garden before I took my dog out in the street although for the first couple of weeks he spent most of his walks with all legs in the air! He jumped around at excitement at everything - leaves, people, other dogs, cats etc.

They will probably want to be with you all the time and follow you round, even to the bathroom if you let them. Personally I allowed this but I did also get pup used to being on his own but very slowly. I would put him in his crate, go out the front door and just stand and listen. I literally started by going out for 1 minute and building up on time.

If you have a car get them used to car journeys as soon as possible to lessen the chance of car sickness. Again build up journeys slowly if possible.

Be warned, puppies can be very hard work and take up almost all your time. You will probably have disturbed nights too. I have been told it is similar to having a baby but as I am childfree I don't know if that's true.

Bubble2bubble · 14/10/2017 09:06

The reality is with a rescue pup you won't know what you are getting.
Equally, you can spend your money on a puppy farmed puppy with no health tests and a chance of many genetic conditions, practically guaranteed to have behavioural and psychological problems as well.

A good rescue will not palm you off with a puppy with known health issues, and will be knowledgeable about breed specific issues. A puppy farmer won't think twice about it.

A good rescue will support you if your puppy has issues. A puppy farm will change their number and disappear.

SparklingRaspberry · 14/10/2017 10:14

You've just said there's 2 litters a year and now you're saying you don't know if there's 2 litters a year...... what do you know?!

Seriously OP don't get the dog. You'll be funding cruelty because this is what this is. There's thousands of dogs/puppies needing homes, do not give your money to a woman who thinks nothing of using her dogs as breeding machines.

Well done for seeing these dogs brought up on the family kitchen floor and for thinking she's great for giving you a towel with a puppy - that must mean this breeder is amazing Hmm

You know very little, your posts prove that. This is NOT healthy or fair for those poor mothers. Educate yourself before getting a puppy.

Alittlepotofrosie · 14/10/2017 10:26

@SparklingRaspberry

She doesnt want to rescue a dog. That's fine and its her choice.

VodkaPenne · 14/10/2017 10:30

@Astrosaurus please ignore the joy sucking threads.

I’ve learnt not to post on here unless it’s about a rescue dog!

So about your actual questions. I started off with a crate but abandoned the idea within 6 months as the puppy hated it. It caused so much stress for it and was counterproductive.

As I type this, she is across my knee snoring and that is where she is happiest sleeping at night too 😂

If I were doing it again with a pup, I’d use a large playpen instead or I’d try and borrow a crate just to try first.

Yes, do some puppy classes, and also that book Perfect Puppy really is excellent. Your vet will be able to tell you about local classes - they may even run some themselves.

What are your plans for feeding? What does the breeder use?

Fretnworry · 14/10/2017 10:41

Hello

We are three weeks into our new rescue puppy. She's our second dog from puppy but the last one lived to a ripe old age so there was a lot we'd forgotten or got wrong the first time round. Here are my top tips;
Puppy socialization class - ask around at vets. They can go before all injections and they really will help you get some basics right from the start and the trainers will be very knowledgeable. E.g guests/friends greeting you first then puppy. It's really simple but makes such a difference to potentially excitable puppy behaviour.
We use a crate overnight.

At least three kongs and always keep them filled and frozen in the freezer. I push cream cheese and mini treats into the cavity. This is the equivalent of putting cbeebies on for a toddler so you can have five minutes of calm for sanity to return.

House lead. Not all the time but can be handy to retrieve from hard to reach places and prevent chewing (damage with puppy teeth takes seconds!)

Give yourself lots of time to devote to puppy care for at least first six weeks (prob longer, i'll let you know!). You cannot work full time from home with a puppy, think excited toddler not wearing a nappy who didn't share same language (i.e. Does not know own name, word 'no' or the phrase 'please god just go to sleep please' accompanied by weeping).

They are into everything all the time they are awake BUT just like small children they do get overtired so you need to have a calming technique (puppy class will teach), it's magic when what they need is calm but they're so wired they can't achieve it. Apparently small puppies should sleep a lot so keep an eye. Their saving grace is having only two settings 'crazy' and 'sleep' the latter is a proper 'off' button.

And don't forget to play! I love the puppy tornado stuff. Makes me laugh every day. But there's plenty of (good natured) cursing too!

Good luck and enjoy!

Fretnworry · 14/10/2017 10:48

This is in addition to excellent advice from others above.

Puppy class will keep you right.

Oh, one other tip, raise food bowl up to prevent meals being gulped down (and then brought up again). Not for all puppies I'm sure but if you have a wolfer it does slow them down. This top tip from vet.

mydogisthebest · 14/10/2017 11:01

I agree with the previous poster about socialisation classes. As important, if not more so, than training classes.

My rescue dog was never socialised so that, along with him being abused, has resulted in a dog that is scared of everything and everyone except me and DH. Even 3 years on he is a nightmare to walk (although a hell of a lot better than when we first got him).

Sort out a vet and see if they do puppy introductions. Means you take the pup there regularly just so they get used to going to the vet. At mine they used to weigh him and the receptionist and nurses (and vet if free) would all make a fuss of him so he learned not to be scared of going.

Fretnworry · 14/10/2017 11:02

Forgot to say factor in kong calories

King stuffing tips here - just found this and now feel very pedestrian. Never used any sort of foul foot; silly me Grin

kong stuffing

Astrosaurus · 14/10/2017 16:07

Just went to see the puppies again. The breeder is lending us a crate to experiment with because they had it spare. She personally didn't like crate training. She also gave us a copy of the Perfect Puppy book.

How do I choose a local vet? And should I go and introduce myself or just make an appointment for just after we pick up the puppy?

OP posts:
Wolfiefan · 14/10/2017 16:15

So the health tests haven't been done.
You are buying a puppy from a someone who repeatedly breeds their unhealthtested bitches for money?
You may well need that vet.
Poor bitches.

ThroughThickAndThin01 · 14/10/2017 16:20

I'd go to a vet on recommendation. Just meet them when you go for the jabs. If you don't like them, just use a different one next time.

Good luck op. Puppies are brilliant but hard hard work!

Post a pic if you can.

VodkaPenne · 14/10/2017 17:56

Yes, ask around for who your friends use as vets and also have a good google for recommendations.
Your local mumsnet page might be a good place to ask too?
And if you don’t like them, move after your first jabs appointment.

BiteyShark · 14/10/2017 18:49

My vets did a free puppy checkup initially and I liked them from the start so continued. They also had a couple of branches close by and they published all their usual prices online including a short bio of each of the vets.

Almostflownthenest · 15/10/2017 08:02

We are picking up our Golden Retriever puppy in a few days and we are very excited too Astrosaurus.

Reading this thread is very interesting with lots of helpful tips but the very direct opinions of some are a bit over the top which I feel almost border on bullying. Hmm

After puppy sitting for a friend’s Lab the other day I would recommend that you have on hand kitchen roll, multi purpose anti-bacterial spray cleanser, mop and bucket, antiseptic spray and plasters for your hands when playing goes wrong and they get your hand instead! Most importantly though what you need is TIME. Time to spend caring for the puppy, time to play, time to train, time to socialize him/her, time to introduce as many different situations, people and sounds as possible before 16 weeks old.

Like with babies and toddlers everything above the 6 foot rule to stop them chewing it. So difficult in this day and age with cables and chargers everywhere. Toys to keep puppy entertained and to chew on, a baby play park to stick him in if you are doing things to stop him getting into mischief or would one do that with the crate? Have you thought where you will put him the first few nights? I remember my sister’s Cockerpoo howling the first few nights. I bought her (the puppy not my sister!) a big, soft yellow flat duck to snuggle up to in her cage as she no longer had her siblings around and 7 years on she still has it, carries it around and sleeps with it. Smile I’m not sure if it would last that long with our puppy.

I am looking at how dogs are trained as guide-dogs to see what tips I can pick up.

Our late ddog lab x retriever was an amazing family pet but as we live in the countryside was not brilliantly socialized in the town, was scared of loud noises and he hated the car for a very long time as he suffered from dreadful motion sickness. The only book he ever chewed was the dog-training manuel! I intended to introduce this one to as many things as possible, as soon as possible.

Have fun with your new puppy! Smile