My rescue staffy growls

[happycrimblechuckie]

If I let my 8 month old staffy sniff round a dog for more than a 30 seconds she starts growling and snapping at them, she doesn't bite but it sounds really nasty, why would she be fine for a while then turn nasty but not with all dogs. She is a perfect rescue dog and I just want to socialise her but I am getting worried she will be nasty with dogs.

How long have you had her and do you know anything about her history, particularly with regard to socialisation? Has she always reacted like this or is it a new thing? Also, is she spayed and if not, has she had a season yet?

The growl is a warning to back off and the air snap the escalation for dogs that don't do as she's asked - actually very clear canine communication. The problem being, if the other dog is ill-mannered and has poor communication skills, so ignores the snap, the next escalation is often a bite. Don't reprimand her for this behaviour, as you will be suppressing the only means she has of communicating her feelings about these situations, which may make her feel more stressed and more likely to react.

It's impossible to know the reason she's doing it, without seeing her in action, so-to-speak. It could be a fear-based behaviour, if she wasn't socialised properly as a young pup or perhaps had a bad experience with another dog in the past.

It's also quite possible that she's happy to say a quick hello, but then wants to be left alone. It isn't the case that all dogs like all dogs, iyswim.

I would join a training class (APDT approved, no dominance/pack theories) and get her used to being around other dogs on the lead, under controlled circumstances. This will also help you build your bond and increase your general level of control. You may find that she is just choosy about which dogs she wants to befriend and will have a few good mates she's happy to play and interact with, but gives short shrift to others. By attending classes together you can teach her to focus on you and ignore the other dogs - there's absolutely no reason why she has to say hello to every dog that comes along if she'd prefer not to.

If you're seriously concerned or not knowledgeable and confident enough to handle socialising her without help, book an appointment with an APBC registered behaviourist. They will be able to assess her behaviour and give you advice/a programme for improving it. Avoid any behaviourist or trainer that talks about you needing to be boss, the importance of pack structure and leadership or dominance.

We have only had her a week and she was a stray so no history. I start training classes on Wednesday but your answer was very helpful and you seem very knowledgable. Thank you for you advice and I wil just let her say hello if she wishes but move her on as soon as she looks like she has had enough. I am confident enough to keep up the socialisation and I think you are right that she just needs training. She seems like she has never been out the house to be honest so it is definitely a work in progress. All that said she is the most perfect dog I have ever owned so I am sure she will be fine eventually

When greeting new dogs work on the 3 second rule. Dogs meet 1 2 3 secs then move on.

At the moment I would avoid meeting dogs she does not know and bringing down her stress levels then gradually meet again but not for longer than 3 seconds.

I have a pup that was nervous of other dogs due to a combination of lack of socialisation (he was very ill as a young pup) and being leaped on by out of control dogs when he was first allowed out.

We went to a great puppy training class, where the trainer set us up with quite a large area and instructed the other owners to stay outside of our 'zone'. The first week he didn't want to come out from behind my chair and hid behind a curtain. I threw him a treat every time he looked into the room or at another dog or took a step forward, by the end of the lesson he was watching the class from behind the chair. Second class he hid for about 5 minutes, then gradually crept out (being rewarded for every step forward) and by the end of the lesson way lying in front of me watching the class with me dropping treats for him calmly watching the other pups. Third week he joined in the exercises and by the end of the six week course was actively taking a step towards some of the less boisterous pups and wanting to say hello.

After the second round of classes he was happy not to have his own zone, would queue up with the others for recall exercises. He even had a girlfriend and was playbowing at other dogs and saying hello nicely. The classes were vital for allowing him to feel safe and gradually develop confidence to want to interact with the other dogs. He wasn't forced at any point and only ever introduced to dogs he actively approached of his own accord.

While this was going on we avoided close introductions out and about where the parameters where difficult to control and only let him interact with known, friendly, well socialised dogs and only if he showed signs of wanting to.

One thing I did teach him that really helped was to give into lead pressure - ie the 'lets' go'. A tight lead can make them feel trapped and more likely to react and I needed him to be happy to come with me if a dog I didn't feel he should meet approached and didn't want tightening of the lead to cause him to react. Kikopup has a couple of good videos on this on YouTube, and . This really helps with the 1-2-3 rule, as it means you can remove your dogs from the situation, without them responding negatively to lead pressure.

My boy is now 1 year old and fine saying hi to on-lead dogs, but occasionally still panics if approached by off-lead dogs when he is on-lead. The trick was going at his pace, taking his lead and never pushing him to interact with other dogs. We don't approach or say hi to every dog we see and I still judge whether or not to based on the other dog's behaviour and my boy's own body language. If he seems keen and the other dog appears calm and friendly I usually speak to the owner first, then allow an introduction if it's ok, if he looks at all anxious or the other dog looks over-excitable or it's body language is tight or jerky, we just use the 'lets go' and give it a wide berth. Certain dogs we know and I can decide to completely avoid them from the other side of the park/field. The other week we went on a behavioural workshop and he had a blast charging around an indoor riding school with other dogs, I was so pleased, as even a few months ago it didn't feel like it was ever going to happen.

You sound very sensible and committed. Good luck with the classes and I hope it doesn't take long for her to realise other dogs are, usually, fun to be around.