Right, separation anxiety. As mentioned on the other thread it?s a very common reason for dogs to be rehomed or abandoned because the results can be utterly devastating. As well as the unacceptable distress for the dog it leads to noise complaints from neighbours and destruction inside the house (can be more extreme than you imagine, I?ve seen pictures of what was previously a solid wood door after a dog finished biting and clawing their way through it).
We all know ?pack theory? is a load of bull but there is a kernel of truth in it in as much as dogs are what you would call a pack animal. They need companionship, human and/or dog, and do not come mentally equipped to deal without it. It?s actually a pretty big deal to expect a dog to be alone for periods of time. I?m also of the opinion that dogs have a poor concept of time ? and of course cannot understand you when you tell them you?re only going out for ten minutes ? and thus every time you leave them the dog might as well assume that you?ve gone forever. This is especially true for rescue dogs who may well have been left for unacceptably long periods of time in their previous home(s), confirming their fear.
As such, for many dogs being able to leave them alone requires an active process of teaching and conditioning. It?s been a long time since I?ve had a puppy so I?ll leave any puppy specific advice to others, though most of this will also ring true for them, and concentrate on adult dogs.
The first step is to create a secure and limited space. For many dogs this will be a crate ? again, there?s been discussion on crates here before if you do a search, crate training requires a conditioning process as well but the long and short of it is that you need to make the crate a wonderful place to be. Cover three sides with a blanket to make a nice den, feed the dog in the crate, give them nice raw bones and stuffed kongs, pop the dog in and out of it at regular intervals, always with treats and toys, close the door briefly while you?re in the room and then immediately open it again, work up to being able to leave the dog in there with the door shut while you go about the house doing chores, making sure the dog can hear you and not see you. This process can take months.
The same applies if you?ve made a safe space somewhere else ? this is usually the kitchen, so the floor is easier to clean. Fit slide or hook bolts at the top of doors so dogs can?t open them or close the area off with stair gates (extra tall ones are available especially for dogs). The smaller the space the better. Fit locks to the fridge, bin and accessible cupboards.
As with the crate process above you need to practice in tiny steps. Start by putting the dog in the crate/safe zone with something really stimulating ? a big raw bone from the butcher is ideal, a kong stuffed with something yummy (and frozen to make it last longer) ? and then stay in view but ignore the dog for a while. Very, very gradually, repeat this process but move a little further away each time ? have the dog sitting in the kitchen chewing their bone while the family sits in the living room and watches TV, a stair gate separating you so the dog can see and hear you but not reach you.
Stair gates are ideal for additionally preventing the dog from following you from room to room which should be discouraged. Basically the aim at this point is to get the dog used to spending time on their own in a room while still being aware that you are in the house, just not being able to reach you. Again, this process can take a long time ? if the dog becomes distressed, you?ve gone too fast.
Some dogs become anxious to triggers like putting on your shoes and picking up the keys. The solution is the same again ? practice doing these things without leaving the house. Put your shoes on, chuck the dog a filled kong and then sit down and watch TV, jangling your keys. Repeat ad nauseum. Practice slamming the door without actually leaving until the dog doesn?t react to door, keys, shoes, coat etc.
When the dog has no reaction to any of these things and can stay in the safe zone alone for short periods while you?re upstairs out of sight and hearing, you start leaving. Initially, you leave for a matter of seconds. Open the door, step out, shut the door, immediately open the door and re-enter. Ignore dog completely. Gradually work up to being able to stand outside for 10, 20, 30 seconds at a time. This process is really tedious, I?ll admit. Again, if the dog shows signs of distress take it right back to the last point. It can take weeks or months to get as far as 10 minutes with a really, really distressed dog. Include any other triggers here ? starting the car engine, for example.
At all times ignore the dog when you return ? the urge is to praise them for their silence, or comfort them for their distress, but these are only confirming to the dog that they were right to fret. Ignore, ignore, ignore until the dog calms down.
Once you get to about 15 minutes with no reaction you can start increasing the time in longer increments. I know this sounds like a really tedious and long process (it is!) but this is the solution to SA.
It goes without saying that the dog must be receiving an appropriate amount of exercise at all times; a tired dog is a good dog. This includes mental stimulation ? an hour?s training class will tire a dog out far more than an hour?s walk. Practice focus training at home, teach your dog daft tricks, set up some agility jumps in the garden, have half an hour of heelwork in the garden with stops, turns, down, send away, teach them new things all the time. Keep them busy! Never leave the dog unless they are physically and mentally tired.
Some people have good results from things like DAP spray/diffuser/collars (NOT spray training collars) Zylkene tablets etc. which are potentially worth investigating.
What have I missed? :o