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Is it possible to find true "princess line" dresses any more?

120 replies

Vaguelyclassical · 31/01/2026 20:11

By which I mean dresses with no waist seam or belt but cut in a line that has fairly fitted bodice and a gentle waist indentation before skimming the hips and flaring a little in one continuous sweep. (It's a flattering line to an older woman who still has a hint of balanced curves but rather more stomach than she'd like.) I'm 5'7" and size 14 and I like my dresses mid calf length or long calf length--not maxi and not just below the knee. This may be a hopeless quest because the manufacturers like styles where you can save costs and work with smaller pieces of fabric nowadays (hence waist seams). But if any brilliant Mumsnetters can make suggestions, I'd be truly grateful! Summer, between seasons, winter dress ideas all welcome!

OP posts:
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Vaguelyclassical · 05/02/2026 22:37

EleanorMc67 · 03/02/2026 18:11

I think the unusual detail to the sleeves, the V-neck & the longer length are what keep it from looking dated*?

I've been trying to analyse why some of the suggestions posted look dated, rather than contemporary yet classic (like this). And I think it's usually:

  • slightly too full, slightly too short skirts;
  • high round necklines;
  • plain narrow sleeves; &/or
  • odd prints/colours.

*I realise some people aren't keen on the use of the word "dated" - sorry, I couldn't think of an alternative!!

I absolutely love fashion (& its history), & have pieces from the 30s through to the 70s (probably my favourite era). Menopausal podge has put paid to me wearing quite a lot of things - but those that fit I love mixing with modern clothing. It is, though, a fine line between doing that successfully & looking like a throwback to another decade ... not sure if I always succeed, so maybe I look dated too sometimes!!

You are so right about the skirt length. The Butterick pattern illustration I never did manage to paste in had a long version of the dress that was definitely LONG calf length. And not full in the wrong way, awkwardly puffing out, but with enough fabric, thanks to the seaming, to move well as one walked (or danced!). It's a hugely flattering length in my opinion for a tallish or tall woman. And v necklines are so much better than high round ones if you actually have, well, breasts!
I am sitting here in an undistinguished pair of black jeans and a sensible woolly jumper pining for the garments of my youth . . . .

OP posts:
EleanorMc67 · 05/02/2026 22:41

Vaguelyclassical · 05/02/2026 22:37

You are so right about the skirt length. The Butterick pattern illustration I never did manage to paste in had a long version of the dress that was definitely LONG calf length. And not full in the wrong way, awkwardly puffing out, but with enough fabric, thanks to the seaming, to move well as one walked (or danced!). It's a hugely flattering length in my opinion for a tallish or tall woman. And v necklines are so much better than high round ones if you actually have, well, breasts!
I am sitting here in an undistinguished pair of black jeans and a sensible woolly jumper pining for the garments of my youth . . . .

Ha! I'm pining for the body that lay under the garments of my youth ... to think that I was hugely self-conscious about being tall & skinny with small boobs!!!

EleanorMc67 · 05/02/2026 22:54

Redlap · 03/02/2026 18:50

I think (just a personal opinion) that really GOOD clothes never look too dated. Very good quality, well made, well-fitting, designed by someone with a good eye, in a colour and style that suit you.

They don't even need to be a "classic" style. They can be very much "of their time," as long as they're a REALLY good example of it.

But so few clothes fit that description! There's so much that can be wrong with them - faults which newness and fashion can cover up for a time, but which show themselves in the end.

I think that's a very good appraisal.

I really like vintage fashion fairs where people dress up to attend - maybe in late 50s wiggle dresses & seamed stockings, maybe in full Stevie Nicks 70s maxi dresses, maybe older Victoriana velvets & lace. It's rarely "fashionable" - but I just love the workmanship & detail in older garments!!!

And I think that even up til the 80s or so, there was a greater degree of workmanship visible in fairly ordinary high-street labels. The turnaround required in fast fashion has mostly put paid to that on the high street ...

EleanorMc67 · 05/02/2026 23:00

Vaguelyclassical · 05/02/2026 22:37

You are so right about the skirt length. The Butterick pattern illustration I never did manage to paste in had a long version of the dress that was definitely LONG calf length. And not full in the wrong way, awkwardly puffing out, but with enough fabric, thanks to the seaming, to move well as one walked (or danced!). It's a hugely flattering length in my opinion for a tallish or tall woman. And v necklines are so much better than high round ones if you actually have, well, breasts!
I am sitting here in an undistinguished pair of black jeans and a sensible woolly jumper pining for the garments of my youth . . . .

Is this the pattern you meant? I'd agree that the yellow version is perfect if you're tall (I am too). I like longer-than-midi (or should I say midaxi ...?!), maxi - or, when I was younger, very short!! Anything just above or below the knee looks wrong.

Is it possible to find true "princess line" dresses any more?
WideOpenBeaches · 05/02/2026 23:09

I made a princess line dress in my sewing class from wool crepe…fully lined.

Took me a year! That did include a toile too.
Wore it to Ascot and a couple of weddings with a frock coat over the top.

It was a KwikSew pattern.

EleanorMc67 · 05/02/2026 23:11

Just found this on eBay - a scoop neck with either angel or (I had to check the name) bishop sleeves? The maxi version would be fab in a really nice crepe with either sleeve ...

Is it possible to find true "princess line" dresses any more?
Is it possible to find true "princess line" dresses any more?
Vaguelyclassical · 05/02/2026 23:24

EleanorMc67 · 05/02/2026 23:00

Is this the pattern you meant? I'd agree that the yellow version is perfect if you're tall (I am too). I like longer-than-midi (or should I say midaxi ...?!), maxi - or, when I was younger, very short!! Anything just above or below the knee looks wrong.

Yes, this is it! A PP actually managed to unearth the pattern number. No waist seam but it still totally shows off a good figure (as mine was then, alas, alack) and as I keep wailing (so boringly) the skirt MOVES when it is that style.
I like "midaxi"!
The Jigsaw dress somebody posted a link to earlier came really pretty damn close; alas, I'm an expat and they don't ship internationally.

OP posts:
EleanorMc67 · 05/02/2026 23:28

Vaguelyclassical · 05/02/2026 23:24

Yes, this is it! A PP actually managed to unearth the pattern number. No waist seam but it still totally shows off a good figure (as mine was then, alas, alack) and as I keep wailing (so boringly) the skirt MOVES when it is that style.
I like "midaxi"!
The Jigsaw dress somebody posted a link to earlier came really pretty damn close; alas, I'm an expat and they don't ship internationally.

I think (if you don't sew) that you should find a really good dressmaker!

EleanorMc67 · 05/02/2026 23:36

I've now gone down a vintage dress pattern rabbit hole ... it's very deep 😶

I want the green maxi version - with added pockets.

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/4448161310/1970s-princess-dress-evening-gown-sewing

Is it possible to find true "princess line" dresses any more?
Vaguelyclassical · 05/02/2026 23:42

I think that will have to be it! I actually have a colleague who can cut fabric without a pattern when she makes clothes for herself (and she is very stylish)--a skill so stunning that I am just gobsmacked . . .

OP posts:
EleanorMc67 · 05/02/2026 23:53

Vaguelyclassical · 05/02/2026 23:42

I think that will have to be it! I actually have a colleague who can cut fabric without a pattern when she makes clothes for herself (and she is very stylish)--a skill so stunning that I am just gobsmacked . . .

I think some people do just have that skill innately (the ones who say it's easy to make your own clothes!).

I could just about do it, but was soooo slow & painstaking that I bored myself of whatever I was attempting to make - so I got a friend in theatre costume to make me things instead. She had that innate skill I lacked ...

And now I've found another fabulous pattern - this coat!!

https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/sewing-pattern-v1738

Vogue 1940'S Vintage pattern 1738 Wide-Collar, Fit-and-Flare Dress from Jaycotts Sewing Supplies

Vogue Sewing Pattern 1738 40's Vintage Wide-Collar, Fit-and-Flare Dress

Transport yourself to the 1940's with this Vogue Vintage Sewing Pattern. Boasting a wide-collar and flattering fit-and-flare silhouette, this dress has front princess seams, an inverted pleat at the center back, and a detachable collar and sleeve facin...

https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/sewing-pattern-v1738

EleanorMc67 · 06/02/2026 00:02

I also came across (when I was checking what type of sleeve that was called) these dinky illustrations of sleeve types!

Probably not for those of you who dislike puff/balloon/bell sleeves etc, but I just love the difference a sleeve can make to a garment. They're so expressive. In fact, I'm not sure that there's a type of sleeve I dislike - apart from very plain ones!!

Is it possible to find true "princess line" dresses any more?
Is it possible to find true "princess line" dresses any more?
Is it possible to find true "princess line" dresses any more?
justasking111 · 06/02/2026 06:49

At school I had sewing lessons. Such a strict teacher. I remember thinking tailor tacks what a waste of time. Darting a faff. But as a young newly pregnant woman i paid £10 for a singer treadle machine, bought a pattern and made some maternity tops in gorgeous fabrics.

As a teenager I cursed the old witch in sewing class. As an adult I thanked her.

I made all the curtains for our house, cushion covers. Duvet sets.

I'm no seamstress and not fast but I still check hems, seams, when looking at expensive garments and taught all my sons to do the same when tempted by designer tat.

Gettingbysomehow · 06/02/2026 17:43

Vaguelyclassical · 31/01/2026 20:11

By which I mean dresses with no waist seam or belt but cut in a line that has fairly fitted bodice and a gentle waist indentation before skimming the hips and flaring a little in one continuous sweep. (It's a flattering line to an older woman who still has a hint of balanced curves but rather more stomach than she'd like.) I'm 5'7" and size 14 and I like my dresses mid calf length or long calf length--not maxi and not just below the knee. This may be a hopeless quest because the manufacturers like styles where you can save costs and work with smaller pieces of fabric nowadays (hence waist seams). But if any brilliant Mumsnetters can make suggestions, I'd be truly grateful! Summer, between seasons, winter dress ideas all welcome!

I have three. Two from uniqlo and one from Seasalt. They all skim over the stomach rather than cling. They are sleeveless so I wear a cropped cardigan.

Cyclingmummy1 · 06/02/2026 18:02

Vaguelyclassical · 05/02/2026 22:37

You are so right about the skirt length. The Butterick pattern illustration I never did manage to paste in had a long version of the dress that was definitely LONG calf length. And not full in the wrong way, awkwardly puffing out, but with enough fabric, thanks to the seaming, to move well as one walked (or danced!). It's a hugely flattering length in my opinion for a tallish or tall woman. And v necklines are so much better than high round ones if you actually have, well, breasts!
I am sitting here in an undistinguished pair of black jeans and a sensible woolly jumper pining for the garments of my youth . . . .

It was the perfect dress. I made 3 if I remember correctly. One for a wedding.

Sminty2 · 10/02/2026 09:47

Vaguelyclassical · 31/01/2026 20:34

OK, ancient Butterick pattern for dressmakers has illustration showing what Princess seaming looks like....

I had a look in my dressmaking stash and found an old pattern 6305. I think that’s what you mean?

Is it possible to find true "princess line" dresses any more?
Aparecium · 16/02/2026 20:42

Oo,look what I found! Shame about the lack of sleeves, and the polyester, but I just love the overall shape and the way the pattern doesn't overwhelm the dress.
https://www.next.co.uk/style/su870490/v10734

EleanorMc67 · 16/02/2026 22:50

Sminty2 · 10/02/2026 09:47

I had a look in my dressmaking stash and found an old pattern 6305. I think that’s what you mean?

That's exactly it, including the way the seam curves across the bust to meet the armhole. I think some versions of princess seams just continue vertically at that point - but to me this is the most typical seam style.

I absolutely love the little jacket that comes with it!!! Can see it in two different but toning - or clashing - Liberty prints, one for the main body & one for the edging band ... 💕

Sminty2 · 17/02/2026 13:08

EleanorMc67 · 16/02/2026 22:50

That's exactly it, including the way the seam curves across the bust to meet the armhole. I think some versions of princess seams just continue vertically at that point - but to me this is the most typical seam style.

I absolutely love the little jacket that comes with it!!! Can see it in two different but toning - or clashing - Liberty prints, one for the main body & one for the edging band ... 💕

It’s a beautiful dress, and I love it, so flattering to wear.
It’s available on the dreaded Amazon for £11 and worth every penny for an old pattern.

EleanorMc67 · 17/02/2026 13:12

Sminty2 · 17/02/2026 13:08

It’s a beautiful dress, and I love it, so flattering to wear.
It’s available on the dreaded Amazon for £11 and worth every penny for an old pattern.

I'd need to regain my waistline first - right now I'd need the seams to curve outwards rather than inwards!!! I need to stop buying (& eating) ice cream ...!!!

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