Workwear - what would you buy if you had my figure and 'challenging areas'

[Doingnothingtoday]

So, I'm late 50s, semi-retired and do a few days a month of freelance work. These days are client facing and fairly formal so I do need something smart but don't want to look dated. Back in the day (pre pandemic and WFH) I lived in structured Hobbs type dresses and suits but I've totally lost my way as my latter years at work were predominantly WFH.

I am 5'3, size 10 -12. Proportions wise I veer towards apple when I gain weight and have a short torso with legs that are longer for my height that might be expected (petite trousers too short for example). Slim arms and legs, but my main problem area is my 32F bust which makes so many things unsuitable.

I've spent the last couple of weeks trying on outfit after outfit in various shops but I'm getting nowhere. Issues faced are:

Dresses. I don't mind a bit of length, but everything seems to overwhelm me and I feel like I'm draped in way too much fabric. I'd love to get fit and flare/shirt dresses however anything that fits on the bottom is too small on top.
Tops generally - Anything with buttons gapes, getting the larger size is then too big on shoulders. A v neck tunic type style just hangs off my boobs making me look bigger than I am.
Trouser suits - a nightmare. Jackets often too long (see short torso challenge) and I struggle to know what to wear on my feet in summer if I manage to find trousers that fit. I think court shoes look dated but what to wear instead, particularly when trainers won't be suitable.

I could go on!

Any wise words from people with similar challenges would be really appreciated. Also, any particular shops where you find the cut to work for you would be great.

I am the same size 10/120 though a little taller and have the really short torso with a big bust problem! I find that putting the effort into finding shapes that work for me is the key and then I can flex around that.

For work I tend to wear shirts and blouses in a slightly larger size to ensure they fit at the bust then tuck into high waisted trousers with a quality belt to show off my waist and draw attention away from my boobs. Trousers wise, must be high waisted, loving the wide leg trend as I have wide hips and this style puts all the emphasis on my waist.
I also find that cropped trousers help me with the long legs/short body balance as well as giving much more flexibility in shoe choice. Currently I’m favouring ballet flats with a strap across the middle for a smart work shoe or a smart trainer. I’m also on the look out for a smart slingback.
Yesterday my work outfit was a Sezane Chlo shirt in a pale pink, tucked into a navy high waisted wide leg crop trouser with ballet flats with a strap in a kind of camel colour from M&S (I’ll try and find the link).

I also think dresses work for this body shape and agree that you want a fit and flare style. I find these tricky to size too as I need a larger size for bust and then end up swamped in fabric around the waist. As an alternative had a lot of success recently with shirt dresses or a floatier type but either adding my own belt round the waist to give structure or something that comes with a waist tie. This brings the same shape but is more flexible and a slightly looser fit is more flattering round the tummy and hips I think.

Few links to give some ideas. Not the most exciting colours or fabrics but gives an idea of shapes

https://www.marksandspencer.com/suede-flat-mary-jane-ballet-pumps/p/clp60728245#intid=pid_pg1pip48g2r1c2

https://www.marksandspencer.com/strappy-pointed-ballet-pumps/p/clp60727322?color=SILVER#intid=pid_pg1pip48g2r18c2

https://www.marksandspencer.com/jersey-wide-leg-cropped-trousers/p/clp23014995?color=BLACK#intid=pid_pg1pip48g2r12c2

https://mintvelvet.com/products/navy-cotton-maxi-dress

https://www.forevernew.co.uk/briley-textured-shirt-dress-287212?colour=black

@user1471548941 That's so helpful, thank you, I will have a look at the links now.

On the fit and flare challenge, I have a great dress from Phase Eight that I got a few years ago. It's nice and neat at the waist but has a zip up the front which keeps everything in place! I'm always on the look out for zip fronted dresses but they are few and far between.

I have some wrap style sleeveless blouses on an elasticated band, they work well with trousers and skirts.
I also accept that jackets look better on me when they fit my shoulders even though I couldn’t do them up!
V Neck wide strap camis
I think you have to accept your dresses or jumpsuits would need tailoring

I’m similar to you- 5ft5 but v long legs so need the long length in trousers and a short torso which combined with being an apple shape is not a good look in certain clothes!

I wear a lot of scamp and dude- I add a thin smart cardi from M&S or a blazer to make it more formal. Some styles I add a belt to give waist definition. They also have some zip front dresses at the moment.

wrap dresses with a vest underneath also works well for me.

Yes, I love a zip up top/dress, something about it just works for my torso length! I would try searching “mint velvet zip top” on Vinted as there is a lot on there from previous years

@Rina66 those tops look interesting, I’ll take a look. They might solve my issue with ticking things in.

@Twilightstarbright I haven’t tried Scamp and Dude but will have a look, thanks for the suggestion

I’m almost exactly the same shape as you, same size bust and longer legs short torso. I was going to suggest Phase Eight for dresses, I’ve had one on today and it felt really comfortable although no zips or buttons. The good thing about P8 is if you find a shape and style that suits you it’s almost guaranteed they will keep selling it but in different fabrics and colours every season.

The problem with ticking things in @Doingnothingtodayis it just adds bulk to exactly where you don’t want it! Accentuate those arms and legs, skim over the rest - oh and get a good tailor - having something made or altered to perfectly fit you is life changing, suddenly you don’t even know you’re wearing anything. My go to is a straight skimming cami with bra strap covering straps, blazer, kimono or done sort of ‘jacket’ and then trousers or skirt, I just can’t do dresses unless they are shirt dresses, lots of which I wear open as a coaty type thing. Skorts are very yummy forgiving too, but obviously not in a working environment, unless you’re playing, coaching or umpiring at Wimbledon 😂