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ZO Skin care - retinol before or after moisturiser?

7 replies

UpToonGirl · 08/12/2024 15:10

I went to see a dermatologist a couple of weeks ago to deal with melasma/dark spots and she recommended I use the ZO system. I had originally been thinking micro dermabrasion but she felt this would be the best route.

I've now got cleanser, exfoliators (physical and chemical) moisturizer, suncream and retinol. The routine is to use the retinol as the last stage, so after moisturizer. Does this sound right? I always thought retinol went on clean dry skin and then moisturiser over the top? That's also what is coming up online. She's also got me using a gritty exfoliator every morning which feels like over kill as well as exfoliating pads. I've only used chemical exfoliators for the past few years.

Just wondering if anyone else has used this system and what products they've been prescribed. Currently feeling like I'm paying over the odds for a load of products when all I probably need from her is the retinol and the suncream, which I do like. Part of the reason I wanted to go through a derm rather than just buying retinol or tret online is to have access to checks ups and tweaks on a routine, I'm fine with paying more for this but just wondering about others experiences of ZO?

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Ruthar · 08/12/2024 16:05

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UpToonGirl · 08/12/2024 16:14

Yes, starting with the retinol every other night. I was just wondering about moisturiser after as the derm specifically said make sure the retinol is the last thing but this seems to be different to what I've always thought.

As I say I'm happy to get the retinol (and pay more) in person, as the check ups are included and it means I can ask about other things as time goes on. Just seemed weird to recommend the physical exfoliator everyday. My routine previously was pretty good, I've used SPF religiously since I was a teen but the melasma came on quickly and I'm turning 40 soon so I just wanted to be a bit more proactive.

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Ruthar · 08/12/2024 16:33

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UpToonGirl · 08/12/2024 17:06

Thanks, I've got a catch up with her next week so I'll ask about hydroquinone and tranexamic acid.

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GFlower · 09/12/2024 12:39

I use a monthly prescription formula, and they have slowly upped my tretinoin content, as at first I found it too harsh and caused too much peeling. I also sandwich with moisturiser, but am slowly reducing my amount as my skin adjusts to it!

What % are you using and which brand? As I’ve found this makes a difference?

Mine’s Monderma and was Tret 0.025 at first, now down to 0.01 and my skin has stopped harshly peeling so much and I’m starting to see the difference!

SE20schools · 09/12/2024 12:50

Hiya I used this system for a while and the over exfoliation and product overload compromised my skin barrier and made my skin break out and dull.

I've now stripped right back to gentle cerave cleanser, Hyaluronic acid and sunscreen in morning, and cerave cleanser, prescription tretinoin and cerave moisturiser in the evening. That's it. My skin is a million times better.

I also sandwiched my retinol (tret) between layers of moisturiser while my skin adjusted.

I went to facialist in the hope, like you, that I'd have a personalised plan that worked. What happened is that I got up sold a shed load of products that were too much for my skin! The daily exfoliation was definitely too much.

I had bad melasma and the best thing for it is combo of tretinoin and hydroquinine.

UpToonGirl · 10/12/2024 11:03

@SE20schools thanks sounds similar, I don't even mind being flogged more products by going in-person to see someone. Just would prefer to be over sold on more creams and oils rather than exfoliators! I think I'll just have to be more direct with her next time on what products I want rather than letting her build a routine.

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