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Any dressmaking experts know if a bias-cut dress can be altered?

25 replies

ScreenPrinting · 22/06/2023 18:44

I have a beautiful unworn full-length Ghost dress that I bought a year ago for an occasion that was cancelled. It’s stunning but I NEVER go to events that require full length gowns. I am wondering if I could get it shortened, maybe to a midi or knee length, but it is bias cut. Can bias cut dresses be shortened? Also, it’s a slippery satin fabric (you probably know the Ghost type!) which might make alterations tricky… it’s the Claudia gown if anyone knows it. I will try to post a pic.

I just wanted to get the MN expert view before I ask a seamstress!

OP posts:
SpongeBobJudgeyPants · 22/06/2023 18:46

Shortening it shouldn't be a problem, as far as I am aware. Slippery fabric can be machined between tissue paper, if it was to be taken up that way, rather than by hand.

PickAChew · 22/06/2023 18:47

If it's just a case of losing length off the bottom, it's straightforward enough.

Whataretheodds · 22/06/2023 18:47

**Yes they can.

PickAChew · 22/06/2023 18:48

And a good alterations specialist will have experience with a range of fabrics.

Fleur405 · 22/06/2023 18:48

yeah that’s easy.

ScreenPrinting · 22/06/2023 18:48

I’m sorry it’s the Sylvia not the Claudia

https://www.johnlewis.com/ghost-sylvia-satin-cowl-neck-maxi-dress/dusty-green/p5994083

this one but a different colour

OP posts:
ScreenPrinting · 22/06/2023 18:48

Such quick replies!!! Thank you so much everyone

OP posts:
ScreenPrinting · 22/06/2023 18:50

I actually want the shoulder pads taken out too but I am assuming that is a breeze

OP posts:
PickAChew · 22/06/2023 18:54

The shoulder pads might be a little more complicated, as the neck and armhole would need to be adjusted to compensate but it's still not impossible.

JeminaSunshine · 22/06/2023 21:45

No idea but what does bias cut mean? I see it a lot. Thank you Blush

ReviewingTheSituation · 22/06/2023 22:11

JeminaSunshine · 22/06/2023 21:45

No idea but what does bias cut mean? I see it a lot. Thank you Blush

It means the garment has been cut out with the pieces on the diagonal.

In more detail...
A piece of fabric is made up of threads running across and down, at right angles to each other. The 'up/down' direction is called the straight grain. A skirt or top will be cut out aligned with the straight grain. If it's not cut straight, the way it hangs will be affected.
Bias cut garments are cut at 45 degrees to this, so the straight grain runs diagonally. It gives the fabric a little bit of stretch/give, and means it hangs in a different way, and clings to your curves.

Mumsnut · 22/06/2023 22:23

I think it would be a shame to shorten it. And … wouldn’t the train-ey thing look weird if shortened??

declutteringmymind · 22/06/2023 22:58

The proportions will be lost. Pin it first and see how it looks if
Possible.

daretodenim · 23/06/2023 05:18

It needs someone who really knows what they're doing. It's easy to mess it up. I'd look for someone who alters wedding dresses and show them a picture first. Ask if they have any photos of similar dress alterations because you can't quite imagine in. You want to look at how the hem lies (doesn't curl up or look obvious).

But it's not just a case of shortening it I don't think. There's extra fabric at the back for the train. It may look odd leaving that in (I can't quite tell and it depends on the length - there's still extra fabric at knee-length, although not a lot). It then may need to be taken in at the sides and that is a more sensitive job, because of the drape of the fabric and how gravity has pulled on the drape. It may be fine, but I'd definitely want someone experienced in this type of job who can talk me through that bit.

It's a beautiful dress. Shame you didn't get to wear it!

Whataretheodds · 23/06/2023 06:32

It is a lovely dress. If you could have it taken up to the ankles you could wear it with trainers/sandals.

A friend had the same dress taken up by a seamstress. It worked well, but the suggestion of asking for photo of similar work is a good idea.

ScreenPrinting · 23/06/2023 06:35

Thanks so much! I’m starting to have my doubts about shortening, I agree that the train effect might cause problems. It still has its tag on so maybe I will try to sell it. A shame as I love it but it’s just never going to be worn otherwise!

OP posts:
Cherryflavouranything · 23/06/2023 07:12

You can shorten it, but yes, the excess fabric in the back would make it look weird if it weren’t part of a train. I’d just sell it if I were you. It’s a nice dress.

SockGoddess · 23/06/2023 07:23

I do a lot of alterations on my clothes/dressmaking and I wouldn’t attempt this. It’s hard to get a bias cut hem neat and level, and if it’s not perfect the colour will make it easier to see.

honestly I’d keep the dress as it is and store it carefully. You did have an occasion to wear it to and that could happen again. Instead of having to find a dress again, you’ll have one ready. You can still sell it in the future if you need/want to.

i have a beautiful, totally impractical silk jumpsuit that I got in a sale, not worn it yet but I got it because it would be perfect for a glam occasion and I hate that running around trying to find something I feel good in for things like that. You have the perfect glam dress, hang onto it!

SoupDragon · 23/06/2023 07:46

I don't think it would work with the style /shape of the dress unfortunately

gypsy22 · 24/08/2024 17:54

All the fullness is in the bottom half of the dress as it’s floor length. Once you shorten it to knee length you are not gonna have very much fullness. Would probably go for mid but you will have to have it fitted on you depending on how it sits on you, they can’t just do it flat, shame because it’s lovely as it is and that’s how it was cut and made but it’s possible -also it may not get a very even hemline which isn’t noticeable floor length though that full but certainly as if it is around the knees
bias cutting is tricky stuff

tommyhoundmum · 24/08/2024 18:19

So pretty! I wish you well to wear it. Sometimes the hems of similar fabrics are rolled rather than hemmed. Dressmakers on here will know.

PeachyPeachTrees · 24/08/2024 19:28

I do proffessional alterations. If it was a plain dress, then easy to shorten. But then I saw a photo of the back and it's really designed to be floor length. I think the back wouldn't look right at a shorter length. As you still have tag on, I would sell and then buy a new mid length dress.

Rockchicknana · 24/08/2024 21:05

I recommend you find a seamstress who is used to working on wedding and evening gowns. A bias cut needs a rolled hem. My neighbour took one to the local dry cleaners to be done and they made a complete dog's breakfast of it! Luckily I was able to salvage it by undoing it and doing a hand stitched rolled hem.

Troymaiden · 24/08/2024 22:34

A bias cut garment needs to be "hung" for at least 24 hours once you have trimmed off to roughly the new length. This is to allow the bias to adjust. This should also be done when altering seam stitching. Bias cut can lift as the excess weight is taken off so you always cut off slightly longer than the finished alteration required. A rolled hem is the best hem for this.

Mamabearsmile · 24/08/2024 23:01

You sure can alter a bias cut dress. Bias and slippery fabric no problem for experienced dressmaker. It must have the length you want set whilst you are actually wearing the dress and wearing footwear you'll want to wear with it. Bias cuts shorten or lengthen when worn/not worn. In other words don't try to cut the hem whilst it's on a flat surface. You'll end up chopping too much off. Good luck. Xx

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