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Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome

811 replies

AnnieSnap · 24/05/2023 11:40

Dressmaking has becoming a topic in the ‘No Buy, Low Buy’ thread. In order not to derail that and because it deserves its own thread, I invite anyone who would like to make some of their own clothes or those already doing so to post here about fears, joys, problems, successes etc.

Having binged watched several serious of The Great British Sewing Bee when was laid-up with Covid and because that corresponded with the woman who did my little alterations stopping doing it, I was inspired to get a cheap sewing machine to try to do my own. That was just 16-months-ago and, having no previous experience at all, I quickly fell in love with sewing. I am not usually very patient with tasks (I have great patience with people and animals, but not with much else). Surprisingly, I have endless patience with sewing even when things go wrong 🤷‍♀️ At the beginning, I never dreamed I would be able to make clothes, but it turns out I can. So far, I’ve made dresses, skirts, tops, trousers, a gilet, a couple of things for my husband and even a jacket and a coat 😮

I try to buy ‘deadstock’ fabric when possible in the interests of the environment. It is fabric that is overstock from designers or big companies like Boden, M&S, Nobody’s Child and all the rest, or even fabric they have had produced and have changed their minds about using. I was horrified to discover that up to recently, all of this, tons and tons every year, went into landfill. It still does if it isn’t sold.

Any sewists (as we’re called these days) or potential sewists, what’s your story? And don’t forget the new series of The Great British Sewing Bee starts tonight. BBC1 9pm.

@pigtailsandall @theatrical @Zipps @remuslupinsbiggestgroupie @daisywaisy

OP posts:
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clowniform · 10/09/2023 19:57

@AnnaMagnani ah the plan was at fault, not you! What top?

@InMySpareTime outraged on your behalf! I'm surprised you haven't developed sewing-specific carpal tunnel. That's often how it starts or so I hear... What are you planning for yourself?

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 10/09/2023 20:04

Gorgeous dress.

I've been dabbling with bias cutting, but not yet made anything I like.

TheCountessofFitzdotterel · 10/09/2023 20:59

Really nice dress Clowniform. Lovely choice of fabric too.

PickAChew · 10/09/2023 21:10

That is gorgeous @clowniform 😍

I have a fiddly half placket to tackle which is as much about the iron as the sewing machine so that has remained untouched for a few days. I still need find some suitable buttons so I can do the buttonholes before assembling the garment, though, as it will be much easier to fold everything else out of the way.

clowniform · 12/09/2023 07:54

Thank you all! I plan to layer it over fine knit polonecks as the weather (at last!) cools so will hopefully extend its season (the print's not too summery, right?)

@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie if I were any good at wardrobe planning I really should be making a bias satin skirt (would complete a lot of outfits, don't like any RTW on my budget, have already traced out a pattern) but the thought of all the starching and taping and crawling about on the floor to cut out... let alone the handling with Extreme Care 😫

@PickAChew I have been sorely tempted by a mini iron or one of those wee rolly contraptions for these fiddly bits. They seem well liked by bagmakers especially. Have you ever tried?

Sati Skirt pattern - Vikisews

Sati has a luxe finishing with French seams and a pin hem, without the use of an overlocker. Sati is below the knee length.

https://vikisews.com/vykrojki/skirts/sati-skirt/

PickAChew · 12/09/2023 13:07

I actually appreciate the height of the ironing board, for this fiddly stuff, @clowniform as well as the odd blast of steam when I'm happy with something. I have the video ready to go back through and a mock up I made earlier for reference. What could possibly go wrong? 😂

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 12/09/2023 19:21

@clowniform The one I tried is satin (cheap from the market) and certainly involved a lot of crawling. It's too short and too wide, but I think I'd like to try again. Pattern sizing is such a pain. I might just cut the seams off and re-sew and see what happens.

clowniform · 14/09/2023 11:07

Go for it, Remus! Someone on IG posted that making clothes now gave her more of a dopamine rush than buying and I think that's true for me too -- but remaking/fixing unsuccessful projects gives an even bigger buzz.

Sounds like you are immensely well prepared @PickAChew ! Forgot to ask, what pattern are you making?

I'm making a toile of this Edwardiana-ish Pauline Alice Sedavi dress. Seasonally inappropriate and totally surplus to requirements but I found some bargain white crepe that would be perfect for it (had gone into John Lewis for some elastic😅). Pleasant surprise to find Pauline Alice PDF patterns has lines all the way to the edge which makes overlapping A4 sheets much easier. She also has a free top pattern at the moment if any fancy it.

Sedavi Dress

VIEW A: fitted bodice framed by knife pleats that continue through the long full skirt finished with a gathered tier. Elbow length sleeves with ruffled hem. Closed with a back zipper.VIEW B: fitted bodice framed by knife pleats that continue through t...

https://www.paulinealicepatterns.com/en/dresses/112-sedavi-dress.html

clowniform · 22/09/2023 08:49

Apologies for burbling into the void once again but Roberts Wood is having a 48 hr sale on their (divine) patterns: https://roberts-wood.com/roberts-wood-kit-shop
Code is DE1A09C

In personal sewing news, Sedavi bodice toile came up ridiculously short, even on my average height but short waisted figure. So maybe a good company to try for more petite women here. Adding a preliminary 2cm to both bodices and sleeve caps, not a change I've ever needed before.
But while that was sitting in disgrace I finally made the bias silk midi skirt my wardrobe was missing (Vikisews Sati). A successful straightforward project with clever (and easy) waistband construction. Going to try and get an Ogden cami out of the remnants.

Please speak to me of sewing! Anyone wonderfully organised and on to autumn stuff?

Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome
Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome
Rosenspants · 22/09/2023 09:37

Can we see the skirt @clowniform ? Easing myself back into sewing gently after my Sauvie Sundress debacle with some Joe PJs for adult DS using some nice, dead stock cotton from Dalston Mills. This Autumn I want to learn some new techniques so thinking to go back to TATB Love at First Stitch book, as I seem to do well with her teaching methods. I also want to sew something with the Tana Lawn I bought in the Liberty sale a while back and was thinking of The Assembly Line Cuff Top pattern. Have also booked a place at The Knit and Stitch show in October.

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 22/09/2023 16:14

Wrote a reply and it disappeared. Sorry @clowniform that I missed your earlier message and you’ve been whispering into the void. The beginning of term has been ridiculously busy, so no sewing to report here.

I would love to see a picture of your skirt.

clowniform · 22/09/2023 20:04

Ah that makes sense @RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie term doesn't start until Monday for me hence the last hurrah sewing frenzy. I hope you get the breathing space for some stitching and other hobbies soon.

Very stylish PJs fabric @Rosenspants and great pattern idea for Liberty lawn. Have you been to the K&S shows before? I'm thinking of skipping it this year, still have impulse purchases from last time which I have no idea what to do with 😅Please do keep sharing as you try out the new techniques! I like looking up stuff as I go/needs must so have all kinds of weird knowledge gaps.

For example, this bias skirt was my first time at sewing a pin hem and double-elastic waistband (see pictures!) Also my first Vikisews pattern, which I found impressively thoughtfully designed, just a shame so few of their other styles suit my tastes or lifestyle. This is straight out of the envelope for my height/measurements, with 10cm chopped off the hem to make it hit mid-calf. I could probably do with snugging the waist a bit but then might struggle to get it over my hips/arse (pear shape). Excuse the wrinkles, it has been a long day with a lot of sitting.

Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome
Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome
Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome
PickAChew · 22/09/2023 23:16

Sorry, @clowniform it's the Maison Fauve blouse atlas. The written instructions are iffy and miss things like how far to turn in the bias binding but the video tutorial is excellent and I'm not having any problem with that being in French.

This will be my last challenging make for a while as I'm having eye issues and may have surgery, soon. I won't be able to lean over a table to cut out or lug my heavier machines into place while I recover so need to do a batch of cutting out, beforehand and keep it easy to see and sew!

Gorgeous skirt, BTW and a teeny tiny hem!

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 23/09/2023 08:02

That’s absolutely gorgeous. I’d never heard of a pin hem before- very clever.

Rosenspants · 23/09/2023 09:36

@clowniform that skirt looks beautiful! I’ve only been to the K&S show once before. I treat it as a real me time day out, and do lots of browsing and watching. I did buy some lovely fabrics last time and another TATB book. There aren’t any really nice fabric shops close to home (sour look at JL who no longer do dressmaking fabrics and have reduced their haberdashery departments virtually nothing 😐) and although I order online, the show is a rare chance for me to browse in person.

clowniform · 23/09/2023 19:08

@PickAChew thank you for the feedback on Fauve patterns! Their styles are lovely but I am a bit wary of influencer brands so good to hear it's working out. So sorry to hear about your eye problems and best wishes for a speedy recovery ❤

@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie neither had I! I think it's more commonly called a baby hem? But the pattern had step-by-step photos, so very easy to follow.

@Rosenspants excellent points and you're making me reconsider! In fairness, seeing and feeling some fabrics in person often makes me cross possibilities off the wishlist, so if I could muster some self-discipline....

Rosenspants · 01/10/2023 09:13

Have finished DS's PJs. Did the elasticated waist instead of the draw string that I did for mine. Difficult, as he's not in the UK so no fitting opportunities. If anything they're a bit too big but that can be dealt with. I was just about to start making something for myself when I got hijacked by DD who spotted the TATB mini dirndl skirt and has nagged me into making her one. Got some bright orange quilting cotton, very cheap at Dalston Mills....and I have sewn my very first French seams! Next, I have to do the gathering into the waist band which is also new to me. Glad to be learning a couple of new techniques albeit at a very beginner level.
In other sewing news, I'm about to make a very strong complaint to my local John Lewis about the demise of their haberdashery department. It was bad enough already, with no dedicated or knowledgeable staffing to help and poor stock levels but on a visit last week, they had reduced the original space by half and had put rails of sale clothing tat in its place. People were really giving the till staff a hard time about it. They said to me they'd had loads of complaints. Our best, independent haberdashery shop in my area closed, and now with JL's poor offerings, I have nothing nearby at all. Happy to do online but it's not always what I want. Rant over.... However I am looking forward to The K&S Show next Friday!

Rosenspants · 01/10/2023 09:27

PJs

Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome
MerelyPlaying · 03/10/2023 03:39

Reading with interest, another one who learned to sew from my mum and I have returned to it in recent years. I used to make a lot of my clothes as a teenager because it was cheaper. These days I (try to) make them because it's more sustainable and because I want them to fit, but it's much more expensive!

I'm not a big fan of indy patterns simply because I prefer a more fitted look. Back in the day I used Very Easy Vogue quite a bit. I consider myself an intermediate sewer, I have made dresses and I can do things like collars and packets with some guidance but if really like to try tailoring. I'm in awe of the black bouclè jacket I saw earlier in the thread, sorry I can't remember the poster. My next project is trousers, altering the pattern to fit my high waist and, er, traditionally-built backside. I'd also like to make some knickers, supposed to be simple but I haven't managed it yet.

mathanxiety · 03/10/2023 05:15

I used to stick to cushion covers and curtains and winging-it-without-a-pattern Hallowe'en costumes. Then I bought a pair of shorts that I loved and when they were almost worn out I decided to take them apart and use the pieces as a pattern for a pair of wide leg trousers. I used the same MO for a sleeveless dress that I bought in a thrift store in a light cotton knit and made into a heavier knit dress with 3/4 sleeves.

Hiddendoor · 03/10/2023 16:41

Looks like I'm going to be back sewing shortly. DD announced she is going to a Halloween party dressed as Eleven from Stranger things

"What are you wearing?" I asked, naively.
"The jumpsuit" she said
"What jumpsuit?" I asked
"You know, the black and colourful jumpsuit she has"
"You don't have one of those," I said, sense of dread unfolding in my stomach
"No," said the confident one, "you're going to make one for me"

Ah, cheers.

MerelyPlaying · 04/10/2023 07:54

Haha that shows great faith in your abilities @Hiddendoor !

clowniform · 07/10/2023 19:46

I'm just back from the K&S show. A friend had something come up so gave me her ticket. It was heaving which helped me stick to planned&budgeted purchases only, though I end up getting a totally unnecessary Fabric Godmother Peony pattern (they had paper editions!) and some ridiculous pink&green metallic brocade from Rainbow Fabrics to make it up in. So there will be another Vampire's Wife cliche at parties this year 😅

How did you find it @Rosenspants ? Anyone else go?

Fabric Godmother Peony Dress - The Fold Line

Buy the Peony Dress sewing pattern from Fabric Godmother. The pattern includes a fantastic couture technique to add shoulder puffs to your dress.

https://thefoldline.com/product/fabric-godmother-peony-dress/

clowniform · 07/10/2023 20:30

Ergh, hit 'post' too soon.
Rosenpants fight the good fight at JL! Hopefully we can make our voices heard with whatever new chief comes in.

@Hiddendoor your lucky DD! Please share pictures of the completed jumpsuit.

@MerelyPlaying An indie but Bella Loves Patterns are by a professional tailor and have excellent instructions for proper industry construction techniques.

All patterns

Bella loves patterns

https://bellalovespatterns.com/collections/all-patterns

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