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Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome

811 replies

AnnieSnap · 24/05/2023 11:40

Dressmaking has becoming a topic in the ‘No Buy, Low Buy’ thread. In order not to derail that and because it deserves its own thread, I invite anyone who would like to make some of their own clothes or those already doing so to post here about fears, joys, problems, successes etc.

Having binged watched several serious of The Great British Sewing Bee when was laid-up with Covid and because that corresponded with the woman who did my little alterations stopping doing it, I was inspired to get a cheap sewing machine to try to do my own. That was just 16-months-ago and, having no previous experience at all, I quickly fell in love with sewing. I am not usually very patient with tasks (I have great patience with people and animals, but not with much else). Surprisingly, I have endless patience with sewing even when things go wrong 🤷‍♀️ At the beginning, I never dreamed I would be able to make clothes, but it turns out I can. So far, I’ve made dresses, skirts, tops, trousers, a gilet, a couple of things for my husband and even a jacket and a coat 😮

I try to buy ‘deadstock’ fabric when possible in the interests of the environment. It is fabric that is overstock from designers or big companies like Boden, M&S, Nobody’s Child and all the rest, or even fabric they have had produced and have changed their minds about using. I was horrified to discover that up to recently, all of this, tons and tons every year, went into landfill. It still does if it isn’t sold.

Any sewists (as we’re called these days) or potential sewists, what’s your story? And don’t forget the new series of The Great British Sewing Bee starts tonight. BBC1 9pm.

@pigtailsandall @theatrical @Zipps @remuslupinsbiggestgroupie @daisywaisy

OP posts:
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mrstrickland · 06/07/2023 21:54

@ReviewingTheSituation fab thanks I will have a look. I recently bought a lovely top from Roake but its the simplest construction that I think even a beginner sewist could do so also thinking about replicating that. I used to sew but lost my way a bit (and always struggle to fix things when they go wrong on the machine) but am planning on dragging it back out and giving it a shot

PickAChew · 06/07/2023 23:22

Jersey is easy. Just use a stretchy stitch and the right needles and make sure you don't pull it out of shape.

Can't remember the pp but bernina (and bernette) machines usually have a mastery booklet available online. There's even one for my overlocker.

SheSawSeaShore · 07/07/2023 06:27

This thread is so inspiring, thank you for starting it @AnnieSnap and everyone for sharing your experiences and tips. I have a sewing machine but only really use it for shortening hems (as I’m a shortie!) but yesterday popped to my local sewing shop and bought a simple pattern for some trousers and some pretty fabric. I’m making them as pyjamas so it won’t matter too much if they don’t turn out very well!

I made a bag last year at a workshop and was amazed at what I managed to create - it was a simple beach bag but beyond anything I thought I’d be able to do. I’ve always wanted to try making clothes but put it off as I was worried it would go wrong. This thread has made me think I should just go for it - what’s the worst that can happen?!😀

InMySpareTime · 07/07/2023 07:27

@SheSawSeaShore making basic clothes is no more difficult than turning up hems really, and you're clearly used to high street fit being "wrong" so anything you make will be better than that.
As it's summer, find a nice stretch jersey and start with a one-piece vest using an existing vest as a template (adding a bit for seams).
Zigzag stitch it and maybe try folded bias binding on the arm and neck holes. You could have a new vest in an afternoon with minimal cutting out and only a few lines of stitching to worry about.
Once you've got some confidence from that, you can move on to learning about darts and sleeves, and before you know it you'll be hooked like us...

mrstrickland · 07/07/2023 07:51

it is definitely inspiring reading the possibilities!
I wonder whether I need ribbing for the neck of a t-shirt? or is there a way of doing that with the fabric?
I will have much more time to look into this when I am off next week but I keep wondering how I am going to make it!

InMySpareTime · 07/07/2023 07:56

You don't need ribbing, you can use a strip of the fabric about an inch wide, fold both edges towards the middle then fold in half again over the raw edge of the neckline and pin in place. It's called bias binding as it's usually cut on the diagonal of a cross-grained fabric so it can stretch, but on a stretchy fabric it just needs cutting in a stretchy direction (pull the fabric to see how it stretches).
Or you can buy ready made binding.

mrstrickland · 07/07/2023 08:07

Brilliant thank you @InMySpareTime I was wondering how I get the right white to match t-shirt fabric so thats great if I just use the fabric to form a neckline

clowniform · 07/07/2023 09:37

Here is a list of free tee patterns to try. I've made the Closet Core and Deer & Doe ones. For a sleeveless option I really like the Paradise Patterns Blomma tank which is free if you sign up for her newsletter.
None needed separate ribbing if I'm remembering right, just bands as @InMySpareTime described.

12 FREE T-shirt Sewing Patterns — Gwenstella Made | sewing · DIY · style

Find your next sewing project here with one of these 12 FREE t-shirt sewing patterns! Whether you are a beginner who is new to sewing with knits or a seasoned sewist who wants a fun and easy Sunday afternoon project, there's a design for everyone!

https://gwenstellamade.com/blog/12-free-tshirt-sewing-patterns

PickAChew · 07/07/2023 13:21

I've made the grainline Hemlock tee and it's an easy enough shape but the seam allowances are only 1/4" which is a PITA, even with an overlocker.

mrstrickland · 07/07/2023 17:51

Thanks @clowniformI will have a look 😃

rivercobbler · 07/07/2023 17:59

Can I ask what seeing machines you all have?

InMySpareTime · 07/07/2023 18:31

@rivercobbler I have a Brother LS14s. It's basic but does all the stitches I need and can push through even thick fabrics.

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 07/07/2023 18:37

I think this one is mine.

Rosenspants · 07/07/2023 19:26

https://www.johnlewis.com/janome-7025-sewing-machine/p231340608

This is mine, I love it though it's my first ever sewing machine so I've nothing to compare it to! I think it's made by Janome but specifically for John Lewis.

AnnieSnap · 07/07/2023 21:27

rivercobbler · 07/07/2023 17:59

Can I ask what seeing machines you all have?

I had a fairly basic Brother to begin with. Then, just over a year into my sewing, my DH bought me a Bernina machine for Valentine’s Day. It’s a major game changer!

OP posts:
rivercobbler · 08/07/2023 08:11

Thanks so much all! Tempted as I am by the ££££ machines, I am. very aware that I could abandon this hobby 😬

orangejuggling · 08/07/2023 08:50

I have a mid-range Elna bought about 10 years ago. Has about 20 stitch styles including buttonholes. I used it this week for the first time for buttonholes and buttons! Game changer. I really didn’t realise you could do buttons on a machine. I would definitely go for a machine that includes automatic buttonholes.

I also have a fairly basic overlocker. You absolutely don’t need one, but I knew I wanted to sew knits. It can also do gathering and it can do teeny little rolled hems.

Youtube is brilliant for finding tutorials. I really like Thoughtful Creativity, who does tutorials for simple clothes copied from your own.

clowniform · 08/07/2023 11:51

I have a (refurbished, half price) Brother F420. More importantly the shop near me specialises in this brand so can service and repair/replace parts as needed. Brother also has loads of feet widely available for a reasonable price (some brands are online only and £££££).
The 'essentials' will depend on what you want to make but this has mine: a zig zag stitch for knits and edge finishing, reliable automatic buttonholes (I love making shirts) and adjustable foot pressure ability to handle a range of fabric weights. Nice to haves are the knee lift, needle up/down setting and ability to take twin needles (for hemming knits). The automatic needle cutter/threader are more trouble than just doing it by hand and I have no interest in most of the fancy stitches or font functions so haven't tried those!

It did struggle a bit with the thickest parts of some selvedge denim jeans and a canvas satchel so I'm contemplating a heavier straight-stitch machine for coats, bags, curtains, quilts etc. in addition, but not to replace the F420.

My overlocker is also Brother (entry level 1034D), it's...fine? I don't ask much of it😅

tribpot · 08/07/2023 17:06

This is my latest effort, hot off the press (the lining isn't actually finished yet!). God this was difficult for me. The outer fabrics are quite heavy - a canvas and a jacquard for the pockets, plus it has a calico interlining, plus internal pockets as well. I had to get a denim needle for my poor basic machine and it was still somewhat hair raising. The zip isn't really right and you can see the poor quality of the top stitching, actually they are some of the worse stitching in the whole bag.

BUT it's usable (and it's only for me, so the wobbly seams don't really matter).

It definitely wasn't an enjoyable make for me, I might have another go with some thinner fabrics and try (even) harder on the cutting out, which I find very difficult to do well.

The pattern was this one. https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/747479302/knitting-bag-sewing-pattern-project-bag

Not sure what to do next, preferably something less stressful.

Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome
Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome
FrontEnd · 08/07/2023 18:24

Well @tribpot it honestly looks great...I really like your fabric choice too.

Sewing machines: mines a Brother Innov-is 15. Bought over 12 years ago under a different model code (in Australia). It has been extremely good and takes everything in its stride from wispy silk chiffon through to thick, fireproof treated upholstery fabrics. Getting to understand needles and feet were key to unlocking her superpowers! 😁

tribpot · 08/07/2023 18:30

I clearly need to understand needles and feet @FrontEnd , how do you figure it out? I kind of knew I needed a walking foot for the very thick fabric from looking at YouTube (I didn't have one, and the project confirmed that was a mistake!)

FrontEnd · 08/07/2023 18:51

@tribpot I am relatively new to dressmaking but started out with curtains, blinds, furnishings inc sofa covers and massive thick padded headboards, stuff like that...lots of different fabrics (from chiffon to fire retardant velvets), thicknesses, niche stuff like double piping, interfacing requirements etc. Many opportunities for trial and error have been enjoyed haha! Getting a mix of needles and selecting the recommended size per fabric, playing with sample packs of interfacing and getting a cheap bulk set of generic feet of the type/height that fits my machine (Amazon) was a good effort investment for me. Also gives more confidence to freestyle own designs which I love doing.

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 08/07/2023 18:54

That's great @tribpot

SheSawSeaShore · 08/07/2023 22:54

I have completed my pyjama trousers (and am now wearing them 😀) They’re far from perfect but definitely wearable and I’m
very pleased with them. My machine is a Brother but the plastic rod that holds the cotton reel (I’m sure there’s a technical
term for that!) snapped just as I was getting started 🙄So I borrowed my DM’s which is a Bernette and was very lovely to use.

Now need to decide what to make next!

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