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Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome

811 replies

AnnieSnap · 24/05/2023 11:40

Dressmaking has becoming a topic in the ‘No Buy, Low Buy’ thread. In order not to derail that and because it deserves its own thread, I invite anyone who would like to make some of their own clothes or those already doing so to post here about fears, joys, problems, successes etc.

Having binged watched several serious of The Great British Sewing Bee when was laid-up with Covid and because that corresponded with the woman who did my little alterations stopping doing it, I was inspired to get a cheap sewing machine to try to do my own. That was just 16-months-ago and, having no previous experience at all, I quickly fell in love with sewing. I am not usually very patient with tasks (I have great patience with people and animals, but not with much else). Surprisingly, I have endless patience with sewing even when things go wrong 🤷‍♀️ At the beginning, I never dreamed I would be able to make clothes, but it turns out I can. So far, I’ve made dresses, skirts, tops, trousers, a gilet, a couple of things for my husband and even a jacket and a coat 😮

I try to buy ‘deadstock’ fabric when possible in the interests of the environment. It is fabric that is overstock from designers or big companies like Boden, M&S, Nobody’s Child and all the rest, or even fabric they have had produced and have changed their minds about using. I was horrified to discover that up to recently, all of this, tons and tons every year, went into landfill. It still does if it isn’t sold.

Any sewists (as we’re called these days) or potential sewists, what’s your story? And don’t forget the new series of The Great British Sewing Bee starts tonight. BBC1 9pm.

@pigtailsandall @theatrical @Zipps @remuslupinsbiggestgroupie @daisywaisy

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NotMeNoNo · 04/07/2023 14:17

Lovely fabrics (among others):
Merchant Mills
Lamazi who stock Mind the Maker and Meet Milk
I've also had great fabric from Dalston Mill and Empress Mills.

eg. here
https://www.dalstonmillfabrics.co.uk/lightweight-gaberchino-twill-yellow.html

The style gets its volume from using a sort of chino trouser-weight fabric for a skirt with deep pleats.

Don't expect to get it dirt cheap, and be prepared to spend a few £ on a sample.

Gradually as you build up a collection of samples you have a reference for fabric types and weight in gsm so you can judge better from descriptions.

Lightweight Gaberchino Twill, Yellow

Lightweight gaberdine twill, ideal for making many different clothing garments including uniforms, work clothes, jackets, trousers, skirts, shirts and more.

https://www.dalstonmillfabrics.co.uk/lightweight-gaberchino-twill-yellow.html

NotMeNoNo · 04/07/2023 14:18

Oops the one I linked was polycotton but there will be other options in cotton.

YippieKayakOtherBuckets · 04/07/2023 14:26

Thank you @NotMeNoNo! I will investigate. Very happy to spend a bit on good quality fabric. My mum is a very talented seamstress and always says that you can buy rubbish in the shops if you are so inclined - if you are going to invest your time in a garment then buy quality fabric!

clowniform · 04/07/2023 15:08

@AnnieSnap thank you, I think I'm too dithery and FOMO-y for Rainbow fabrics online but maybe in person it would be better.

@YippieKayakOtherBuckets epic username.
That skirt looks like the Merchant & Mills Shepherd which I've made successfully in a Sevenberry Kobe twill that comes in a bright yellow. Sevenberry makes a heavier weight twill (270gsm) but I like the Kobe because it has a smooth side which would more closely match the inspiration if used as the right side IMO. M&M samples are in their washed 8 oz twill which again has a smooth face.

The Shepherd PDF UK 18 - 28

Fabric Requirements (Self, unlined and lined version):   18 20 22-24 26-28   110cm/43.5" wide (with nap) 4.1m/4.5yd 4.1m/4.5yd 4.1m/4.5yd 4.1m/4.5yd   110cm/43.5" wi...

https://merchantandmills.com/uk/the-shepherd-pdf-uk-18-28

ReviewingTheSituation · 04/07/2023 15:18

Sewmesunshine is a go-to for cotton twill for me... but check the weight carefully. All the twills I've had from them are more suited to jackets/trousers and would make a pretty hefty skirt, which I'm not sure would swish much!
G&G also good for this kind of fabric, but again may be too heavy.
Fabric Godmother worth a look too.

YippieKayakOtherBuckets · 04/07/2023 15:23

Thank you @clowniform and @ReviewingTheSituation. I will look into those options too. Guthrie and Ghani is not far from me so I may go and have a look in person.

AnnieSnap · 04/07/2023 16:09

@PickAChew Where do you live in Durham?

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VimtoVimto · 04/07/2023 16:47

Cynderella · 03/07/2023 21:15

I used to sew, and I want to start again. What would you say was essential, nice to have and really not worth having?

I agree with the list posted. I got all excited about buying an overlocker but as I probably only sew three or so garments a year it’s not really worth it.

Darklane · 04/07/2023 17:23

Hello. I’m another who used to sew years ago but got out of the habit. Still have my old Novum sewing machine, that weighs a ton being all metal. I have read that they evolved into the Janome brand, don’t know if true. But two years ago my DH bought me a gorgeous Bernina for a birthday which I’m ashamed to say I’ve hardly used as I’ve become quite nervous about it. Stupid really as I used to make all my own clothes having been taught by my DM who was an amazingly talented amateur dressmaker, she even made me a leather coat. I also have a, hardly used, Lidl Overlocker which took me six months before I plucked up courage to attempt to thread!
Being a hoarder I still have a lot of old patterns, mainly Vogue as I sent others to the charity shop years ago.
I’m lucky to be still in reach of a factory outlet fabric store, there used to be so many more here in the cotton factory capital of Lancashire, even local markets with fabric stalls mostly gone.
What I am sorely in need of is a good pair of cutting out scissors. Mine are long gone. Can anyone recommend some please?

AnnieSnap · 04/07/2023 17:35

@Darklane whatever you do, avoid Prym. I bought their Professional Xact Scissors for £29, expensive for scissors. They never cut correctly. I have now contacted them 3 times about the problem and they have ignored me each time 🤬 I have two types of Fiskars dressmaking scissors and they both work beautifully.

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Darklane · 04/07/2023 19:23

AnnieSnap · 04/07/2023 17:35

@Darklane whatever you do, avoid Prym. I bought their Professional Xact Scissors for £29, expensive for scissors. They never cut correctly. I have now contacted them 3 times about the problem and they have ignored me each time 🤬 I have two types of Fiskars dressmaking scissors and they both work beautifully.

Thank you, that’s very helpful.
Thats really not good how they are just ignoring your complaint.

PickAChew · 04/07/2023 20:57

I have some of the lovely lightweight William Whitely scissors.

@AnnieSnap I'm in the city itself.

NotMeNoNo · 04/07/2023 22:48

@Darklane did you go on the free Bernina training course they offer with new machines?
I have one too and it's taken a bit of getting used to, I kept my old heavy machine too.

AnnieSnap · 04/07/2023 23:17

PickAChew · 04/07/2023 20:57

I have some of the lovely lightweight William Whitely scissors.

@AnnieSnap I'm in the city itself.

If you could get a bus to somewhere nearer to me (I’m in Washington), I could pick you up and we could go together.

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PickAChew · 04/07/2023 23:48

Ooh, tempting, @AnnieSnap . I'm on the 50 route, though that takes about a year to get from Durham to the galleries, via the rest of the world, these days. Newcastle is quicker when the little darlings aren't burning bits down.

PickAChew · 04/07/2023 23:50

Though I need to prioritise a haircut, before the summer holidays. My salon is in Newcastle 😖

AnnieSnap · 04/07/2023 23:58

PickAChew · 04/07/2023 23:48

Ooh, tempting, @AnnieSnap . I'm on the 50 route, though that takes about a year to get from Durham to the galleries, via the rest of the world, these days. Newcastle is quicker when the little darlings aren't burning bits down.

Let me know if you fancy it sometime.

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Floisme · 05/07/2023 10:40

Textbook approach would advise the grainline be perpendicular to hem at the centre of the front leg i.e. middle of knees? Basically the bit you most want to hang straight and not twist. That's assuming the hem is straight and horizontal rather than more interesting, though!

Thanks for that advice, clowniform. I've never gone 'off piste' and worked without a pattern before so it feels like a big step!

I've also watched a number of You Tube videos about 'garment hacking' and none of them have even mentioned finding and following the grainline. They also never seem to iron anything, despite urging you to make sure the garment you're copying is flat. Yes I judge!

mrstrickland · 06/07/2023 19:21

I am keen to try and make a t-shirt and wonder if anyone can recommend any particular fabric that would work well. I would love to make a white t-shirt that isn't see through as that seems to be the holy grail but finding it difficult trying to figure out what to buy online when you can't see if its see -through... so if anyone has any recommendations please let me know!

PickAChew · 06/07/2023 20:57

You want cotton jersey (usually comes with added elastane) around 190-200 gsm (that's the weight) any lighter and it probably will be see through. Jelly Fabrics are a good bet for a good choice of stretch fabrics.

Darklane · 06/07/2023 21:03

NotMeNoNo · 04/07/2023 22:48

@Darklane did you go on the free Bernina training course they offer with new machines?
I have one too and it's taken a bit of getting used to, I kept my old heavy machine too.

No, I didn’t know about that. The shop I got it from never mentioned it.

mrstrickland · 06/07/2023 21:21

Brilliant thank you. I am maybe being over ambitious with a t-shirt? but willing to give it a whirl whilst I am on holiday next week !

mrstrickland · 06/07/2023 21:22

Sorry that was for @PickAChew

tribpot · 06/07/2023 21:24

@mrstrickland Tilly and the Buttons has a video course specifically on sewing with jersey. I've got my eye on it for when I move on to t-shirts.

ReviewingTheSituation · 06/07/2023 21:47

@mrstrickland I made some lovely white tshirts with this fabric. It's not the cheapest but it is excellent quality. It wears and washes really well, and is a really nice white. I made a TATB Tabitha and a Sew Over It Audrey (which I was complimented on this week, and the lady refused to believe I'd made it!). Both are a few years old and still in great condition.

I used the offcuts to make raglan sleeve tops for my friend's girls, with some bright coloured fabric to make the sleeves, and she/they loved them.