Retinol-wrecked face - please help!

[GuruK]

A quick summary of how I ruined my face: I started using a retinol (0.1%) serum (Anew Anti-Wrinkle Smoothing Serum) about 2 months ago. Aside from a little peeling at the start the only thing I noticed was how soft my skin felt. However, after about a month I started getting breakouts, I figured my new serum wasn't agreeing with me so I stopped using it. The breakouts have continued and if anything they are getting worse.

I feel very stupid as I went into this completely blind and just thought I could start using it as I had my previous creamy serum. I've since done some reading and learned that you need to only use it once a day or once every other day and to use plenty of moisturiser after it. I've also read that you should expect a certain about of purging of toxins at the start of using it.

I now don't know what to do, prior to this I had fairly good skin, aside from mild rosacea on my cheeks and occasional premenstrual breakouts. My skin has always been a little sensitive though. I now don't know what to do for the best, every morning I wake up to several new spots and it's really getting me down. I have read that you can damage the skin's natural barrier and if this happens you should give it time to heal so I am leaving it alone as much as possible and only using E45 minimally for a little moisture. I really could slap my earlier self for ever having started with a new skincare product. Do I need to carry on with the retinol so it can finish "purging" or is there something I can use to try and help heal the barrier?! I feel completely out of my depth and thoroughly depressed that my skin has become yet another part of my body to cover up or disguise.

Any advice would be hugely appreciated!

GP here. I cannot diagnose exactly what is happening with your skin. I can tell you that all the stuff about purging toxins is utter bullshit. (The skin does play an important role in homeostasis and infection control, but it will do that whether or not you are using a retinoid)

As I say, I cannot diagnosis you over the internet. What I would usually advise patients with breakouts in this situation is to stop using anything other than a perfume-free moisturiser: use this for cleansing, as well as moisturising. Unless something dramatic happens (in which case see a doctor), give it a couple of weeks and you may see everything settle down.

Don't panic, you have not ruined your skin. It may be nothing to do with what you are using - you might have developed rosacea. But the best way to work out whether the retinoid is a factor is to stop using it and see what happens.

PS Sorry - I meant you might have developed a rosacea flare-up.

Definitely do not use a steroid cream (e.g. hydrocortisone) on your face unless a doctor advises it is ok. If it's your rosacea, it will make it worse.

I think you damaged your skin barrier, as you said. I would go gentle. No exfoliators, products with ceramides like Cerave and lots of patience and SPF.

I think you should buy some hemp oil from amazon and put a drop into a neutral moisturiser. If that's E45 for you okay but when I use that on sensitive skin my skin burns.

So I would look for something a lot more mild, maybe aqueous cream?

I use EpiDuo from my GP for breakouts as I'm prone to spots. It's prescribed and is not retinol, it's adapalene (0.1%) and benzoyl peroxide (2.5%). - purified water.

I use the EpiDuo only on my chin, forehead, and around my eyes (not lids or under) as that's where wrinkles and spots can occur.

Never ever put anything medicated or any retinol on the nose.

You are not meant to use retinol daily either, I'd say every three days only, and a tiny amount and not on the nose.

I'd say pure hemp oil. I've healed my skin from a similar thing and also from a period of neglect when I was self-neglecting and using excessive alcohol and my skin aged a lot. This was over ten years ago and my skin is really nice now and that's my basic routine; the EpiDuo for breakouts and only on the area the spots appear, even just use it on the spots themselves.

And then hemp oil in a moisturiser that's very light which you lather on and leave overnight.

Hemp oil really heals. I used it on nappy rash, it disappeared instantly.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004RGPX28/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.boots.com/boots-pharmaceuticals-aqueous-cream-500g-10277133

I've found The Ordinary Zinc and nicotinamide very helpful for spots and hairy get any since I added to my skincare.

I haven't got on well with retinol at all and now just use a few drops every 2-3 days, I don't actually think it makes any difference to my skin so I'm not sure I'll continue once I finish my current supply.

*Hairy 😂
Should say hardly!!!!

Hairy is a whole other perimenopausal skin issue! 😆

Benzoyl peroxide is useful for acne vulgaris (the type of acne people typically get when younger) but it does not help acne rosacea, which is what the OP has. It's quite irritating, and not advisable when someone has already got irritated skin (that isn't acne vulgaris).

Aqueous cream is not very moisturising, and no longer recommended for dermatitis, for that reason. That said, I have some patients with eczema who swear by it! But a more moisturising product is more likely to help.

I agree with @xogossipgirlxo that patience and gentleness are the keys here, rather than rushing to try a load of other products. If it's not settling, there are now some fantastic topical treatments for rosacea that avoid the need for oral antibiotics, which used to be the mainstay of treatment.

The Anew range has quite a mild entry grade retinol in it, though it could still have irritated your skin, especially if you already use other actives or don't use a strong sunscreen. Retinols can sometimes cause peeling but if you've stopped using it and things are still not right, then you may be reacting to something else.

La Roche Posay Toleriane Dermallergo or Cicaplast will help soothe and repair your skin's barrier.

😆

Thank you. Just saying what I use. She would have to go via a GP anyway so wasn't worried she would use it without being told she can't by a professional.

The hemp oil though, that will save your skin but won't help breakouts.

If anyone finds a cream that dissolves the hairs on my chin (which act like they've had miracle-gro rubbed in) I'd be v grateful. 🤣

The aqueous would be a carrier for hemp oil, which is really, really moisturising. Something mild that will have little to no effect really is what I was trying to look for.

I tweeze mine out

Yes, and I don't mean to criticise your regime at all, which sounds perfect for your skin. Hemp oil seems to work magic for some people too.

If you have Vaseline try that on a little part of your skin first because it's very good at helping to heal quite damaged skin.

If it improves then apply it to the rest

I had rosacea. Using hot cloth cleanser morning and night (I’ve used a few brands and the Aldi, Lidl, Superdrug ones are cheap and work fine), followed by Nivea night cream morning and night (the blue tub, 50ml, costs £4 or less) got rid of the rosacea and my skin’s been great since. The bonus is that this skincare regime is cheap.

I have rosacea and there are very few things I can use on my face that won't trigger a flare. I can't use anything with retinol in it as my skin starts burning and then breaks out in spots.

I am currently having some success with Lumizea in the day, it'@ Azeleac acid by Skin Theory. And I also use Soolantra at night.

I would very much recommend you immediately stop using any actives - so not retinol, acids, exfoliants etc. The best barrier repair cream I've ever used (i.e. it actually feels as though my skin is improving rather than just getting some moisture) is La Roche Posay Baume B5 - it's bloody amazing. I really like their Toleriane products too.

Meant to say, I use the LRP Redermic Retinol and I really like it - it's gentle but is great on my very sensitive skin. I probably use it 3-4 times a week and only at night.

No I didn't think you were criticising my regimen, I'm just saying I knew she'd have to go via a GP so wasn't worried about recommending my acne treatment.

Breakouts are horrible, sometimes painful. I use tee tree on spots too which is very harsh but only on the tiny area of the actual spot. But you can buy that from shops so wasn't going to mention it but that would work for treatment of a tiny area.

Hemp oil is magic!

This is word for word what I was going to write

@happysingleversary once your skin has acclimated to using retinoids, you absolutely can use it daily. You just need to find the correct strength

It's a very mild retinoid you have been using. I would question if it was the retinoid causing the issue

0.1% Retinol sounds really mild.... I'm sorry you've had a nasty reaction.

Oat Milk Cleanser by Inky List and La Roche baume are my go-to if my skin is irritated but might be worth a gp visit.

Hope it heals soon xx

I have rosacea and when I'm having a flare up only things that helps me is La Posay Baume B5 cream. I would use this on its own day and night until face heals before trying anything else on it