To think the boob or bust bra evangelism goes too far!

[hihellohihello]

I can't use this method. I've scars and sensitive skin after a mastectomy and then menopause. Soft tissue which will redden and go dry if anything digs in.

I don't feel that these issues are unusual. Granted, many women have not had mastectomies but many have soft tissue, dry and sensitive skin. No matter what size they are. I have tried to build muscles up and have but still got a layer of soft skin over them on my back and underarm area. I'm not big - the opposite 5 ft 7 and size 8 with a BMI on the low side so losing weight would not be the best option for me.

So I choose bras with a 34 back size. (Measure between 30 and 31). However, this seems almost taboo now. They don't ride up and don't leave red marks. They are the most comfortable apart from comfort bras/bralettes (which I get in a medium). Tighter bras leave red marks and my skin gets dry.

So sick of hearing 'You'll get used to the underband being tighter' and 'You need to go up a cup size' . Complete with a Facebook page. I've tried it. It doesn't work. I see so many pictures even in lingerie catalogues of flesh billowing over underbands. Underarm rolls and back rolls (Although the breasts may defy gravity). These rolls aren't suggestive of a good fit. Granted my breasts are not as high as they could be versus hoisting them up with a smaller band and shorter straps. They don't look like they are about to defy gravity. But they look normal and don't sag, when wearing my bra, at least. They're not at my waist or anything - they are where they should be.

I understand it might be empowering to get some uplift / look slimmer but horses for courses. Running everyday, watching what I eat, walking and weights got me slimmer already. My bra just needs to be comfortable, hold a prosthesis and not show under my clothes.

But such is the Boob or Bust evangelism that many stores will not even publish measuring guides. Thankfully, I do know about 'sister sizes' - one thing I can thank Boob or Bust for, I suppose.

Rant over. 🥴

Gore?

The bit at the centre between the cups

@StatisticallyChallenged Which calculator or method would you advise fot going in the right direction to finding a good fit? Using just the direct underbust measurement as band size fits ok when first putting the bra on but as the day goes by it leaves painful scarring.

Not a bra expert, but where do you get the scaring? Different bras hit in different places- beyond overall fit. After that consider if it is movement or pressing in on places which is causing the issues - tightness or looseness?

Thanks @hihellohihello , it's only after wearing the bra for a while on both sides of the band but not the actual back part.

Well if it's movement it might be too loose, if it's digging in too tight - on the back band. But other than that a band that is a different shape, narrower or wider might avoid any particular contours.

If you've got any bra expanders, you can test the too tight issue. But if that makes it wrong in the cups (it might make them too big) you'd need a resize or take the cups in by sewing in a dart or two.

However if the band is moving about try taking in the band. Test by tacking a dart into the back of it. Then if it works cut off the excess fabric and stitch the ends together flat.

@hihellohihello that's so helpful, thank you again for the great advice. I'm going to order an extender and see if it helps first.

You're welcome. It's certainly worth having a few in. They're very cheap. At the very least you'll have fasteners to replace on a favourite bra if they ever break. 🙂

Ah it's clicked! I have a conclusion!!!✨🙂

If you have a lightweight bust then the elastic doesn't fatigue so bands on the tight side will remain tight and possibly uncomfortable. If you have a heavier bust the the elastic will fatigue so getting a band on the looser side means that it just becomes too big once the elastic has fatigued and so it becomes uncomfortable that way.

One variable here is the strength of the elastic. A very strong firm elastic - then buy the bands on the looser side unless you've a very heavy bust. A softer stretchier elastic - then buy the bands on the tighter side unless you've a lightweight bust

Another variable is the bounce back of the skin. A younger skin with more elastin, collagen etc has more bounce back to cushion and resist the pressing in of elastic. It is also less prone to dryness and less easily irritated. An older skin with less elastin, collagen etc has less bounce back so any pressing if the elastic is more likely to cut in. It is also mire prone to dryness so more easily irritated.

So if you're younger (pre-meno) with a heavy bust - tighter backband. Firm elastic can increase the tight back band effect.

Older (post-meno) with a lightweight bust - looser backband. Stretchy elastic can increase the loose effect.

Inbetween on either weight of bust and age - somewhere inbetween.

As a general rule the underbust measurement in inches being band size is the best place to start, but you have to look at each bra from there and work out if it's too big, too small, wrong shape etc.

Nasty marking isn't always a straight up band size issue, it can happen for a variety of reasons

• cup size could be a bit small (meaning the band is pulled tighter). Sometimes this only shows up through the day
• cup shape might not be good; if the cup is too shallow for example then your boobs might sit higher in the cups than they're supposed to rather than going down to the wires. This can cause all sorts of weird movement and contortions over the day.
• wire might be too wide (this is an issue for me, curvy kate and sometimes fresh wires are too wide so I end up with wires wrapping round me which results in side marks
• similarly the side boning and seams in some freya irritate the hell out of me

For me the first place I look if the band seems ok but hurts later is going one cup size up. It's by far the most common problem for me and it's not always obviously what's wrong until it try one up and robustly scoop everything in

Not quoting as it'll be massive but you're right @hihellohihello re bust weight, skin, different fabric stretch levels, skin sensitivity, etc. Plus add in:

• ribcage shape (tapering vs flared)
• body size and padding (very slim often need a size up, more padded often a size down)
• where you are in your cycle (I'm a full cup bigger at certain times, which can make bands nippy if I get the wrong bra)
• pregnancy

And probably a bunch of other things!

Overall I'd pretty much always go (if you're working with measurements) with underbust in inches as band size as a start point because it's probably the most accurate on average and is mostly only about 1 size off either way. Plus 4/5" is wrong for most people, and there's almost nobody who needs plus 6/7". But there are people who need -2"...

I once tested M&S fitting, I was a definite 30hh at the time. They measured a bit loose, came up with 31", added 5 and brought me a 36F. If you try a bra and it seems off you mostly try sizes in the neighbourhood so from there you'd maybe try a 36ff or a 34ff or something - you'd never go down 3 bands and up 5 cups. Whereas starting at the 30 you might try a 28 or a 32 so you'd cover the size range that's right for almost everyone.

Plus 4/5" is wrong for most people, and there's almost nobody who needs plus 6/7". But there are people who need -2"...

Yes, but you've got to think about demographics here. Older, post menopausal women, are often under represented and their voice not as loud - especially on social media. We're the lot that end up in comfort bras, no bras, vests, old bras etc when the advice is tailored to a younger demographic with more robust skin.

I dont get the idealism about a tight band either I am a 36E cup and using the b and B method I'm supposed to be a 34. I ended up with a cut under my arm from the bra (and I wear good quality bras) red marks and ita just so uncomfortable. I've stuck with the 36 since as agreed by rugby and peller and Bravisimo. Measures.

Today I'm wearing my oldest bra I know it doesn't fit well I know it won't support a lot but right now I just want to feel comfortable and not have any.isues. if I go anywhere I will change 😀

And my new bra - (34 size under band) measurements are 26 unstretched to 35 stretched
This is opposed to my year old 34 size under band bra which measures 27 unstretched and 40 stretched. So no wonder the new one feels tighter!

I suppose it's market forces. If their general customer demographic (or the demographic who has the loudest voice on social media / influencer industry etc) most usually breaks the elastic they won't want too much stretch anyway.

I agree with this.
measurement wise I would be told to get a 26” band, but I wear a 28 or 30, occasionally a 32. I wear a 65 (30) in Polish bras. Very tight bands hurt my back and leave red marks on me.

People did used to be thinner, generally, years ago when the add 4/5 inches was more the norm...I'm the same sort of size I was when I was 16 in the 80s.

Yep, another one in full agreement here. After years of wearing either a 32 or 34B, I was 'properly' assessed and it was declared I was actually a 30C. I had my misgivings, but purchased one bra in that size to try out, (despite it feeling v v uncomfortable in the changing room).
Wore it to work and could feel it digging in and rubbing all day. Got home, ripped it off and it had rubbed me raw. I had to wear sports bras until my skin healed.
So yeah, no thanks. Comfort all the way!

@StatisticallyChallenged thank you so much!! I never thought to try a cup up, definitely going to order a few different sizes to tweak the fit. It's the Fantasie Fusion I was wearing and I think their sizing can be different sometimes.

Exactly the same issue as you @Creamcrackersandricecakes
No way I could have worn a 30C another day.
34B all the way for me.
I'm now a size 8.
Used to be12/14 and 36C was my size then. Both times +4/5" worked perfectly.

Tbh if you're wearing a 34b then unless it's noticeably baggy in the cups then a 30C would have been too small cup wise - a 30C is designed for a full bust measurement of 33", a 34B for 36". So assuming the 34B cups are feeling roughly right volume wise I'd expect a 30C to be bloody uncomfortable indeed, as it's roughly 3 cup sizes smaller. And if the cup measurement of your 34B was 3" too big you would definitely have noticed as the cups would have very obvious gaps.

Not saying you need to try anything else, if you're comfy that's a-ok, but I suspect that a 30dd/E or thereabouts would feel significantly better than the 30C did. Bands and cups don't exist in isolation and if the cup is too small the band can hurt like hell.

This is interesting:

"Using Math: Generally, elastic is stretched between 3-8%, with 8% being used only in parts where you want the garment to “hug” the body (i.e. at the underarm near the armpit). So if you want to use math, then you can measure the length of what is being sewn and reduce it by 5%. When sewing, pin it at the half and then the quarter so that equal tension is applied"

(madalynne.com/bra-making-tutorial-how-much-should-you-stretch-elastic-when-sewing/)

That would bring a size 34 bra down to between 27.6 and 28.5 inches with the elastic unstretched. (assuming the add 4 convention).

Alternatively that would bring a size 34 bra down to between 32.3 and 31.28 with the elastic unstretched (assuming the underband measurement = underband size. )

My bras unstretched seem to follow the former convention.

I haven't read the full thread, so sorry if I'm repeating. But they do say (proper bra measurers) that if you are very slim you need to go up a band size as one that is tight will dig. If you are a bit fleshier then a tight band is good as it holds you well and won't dig too much due to extra coverage on your body. Does that make sense?

That's working on the assumption that sewing stretch = wearing stretch. That isn't true in general and I don't think it's true with bras either (I sew, but not bras). It would only be the case if the fabric the elastic was being sewn to had zero stretch which is not usually the case with bras, the back fabric is usually stretchy.

If I'm sewing with a stretch fabric then generally the fabric itself isn't stretched whilst stitching (with the exception of things like neckbands when the band is stretched but not the main garment) even though the pattern might have negative ease. I have made pants and boxers though and they've definitely had negative ease, with the elastic being stretched a little when sewing but more when worn