Mitsouko or l'heure bleu what do they smell like ?

[einekleinenachtarbeit]

I normally wear fresh citrussy/florally perfumes but for autumn/winter fancy something a bit different.
Used to wear vintage opium and paris in the 80s so not averse to strong statement type scents. I'm intrigued by the history of these two perfumes and their age but am reluctant to fork out on them blind.
On Fragrantica the reviews are mixed, some love them, others describe them as old ladyish (their words not mine), to be worn by a grand lady dowager ! Not sure that's the affect I want ! But I would like a more complex scent. Struggling to find samples on ebay so i just wondered if anyone who had them would describe them as old fashioned ? Do they grow on you ? Or are they heavy and cloying past it perfumes ? It's so difficult trying classic perfumes locally as debenhams has shut and all we have left is a boots/m and s. Thanks in advance !

I used to work for Guerlain. (In Australia.) They are both “classics” but neither will probably appeal to you, probably. They are VERY old world, and very strong. Mitsouko often smells “off” to the modern nose until it dries down, and that takes a long time. It contains citruses, but is definitely NOT a citrus fragrance. It is different on everyone, but definitely leaves mostly a rose-oriental lingering scent. On some people, the peach lingers too, but to me it can have that rotting fruit bowl smell on a few people. (The Jean Paul Gaultier original scent has a MUCH sweeter, but similar effect.)
L’Heure Bleu is the softer and more feminine of the two. The coriander and carnation also give it a “fresher lift” to what is essentially a fluffy, powdery, sweet, floral scent.
Normally I would suggest that you get the EDP of these fragrances because these are BIG, old-style, blousy, movie-star fragrances, and the EDP stays closer to your skin. I would describe Mitsouko as Jane Russell, and L’Heure Bleu as Cyd Charisse. The Mitsouko EDT (IMO) smells like playdough. The L’H B EDT IMO is the lovelier than the EDP. (Would recommend for brides, etc.)
Meanwhile, if you love citruses and want something that lingers - have you tried Orange Solleia from the Aqua Allegora range?

L'heure bleu is a beautiful perfume but is very different from the perfumes you gave mentioned. It has a vintage smell but in a good way.

If you are looking for complex, I would try Feminite du Bois which is perfect for Autumn Winter.

Thanks for your advice ! Funnily enough I tried an aqua allegoria perfume years ago but can’t remember which one ! Never bought it in the end sadly. Might look out for samples of them on eBay.

Excellent answer from Justilou. Perfume blogger here. Personally I love L'Heure Bleu but both that and Mitsouko are definitely not worth risking a blind buy. I would echo what Justilou says about getting the EDP and not the EDT.

The modern trend is for perfumes that are definitely not in this genre, but they are worth exploring. Samples are hard to get hold of and you're right about testers being scarce. Unless you know someone who can decant a little for you or lend you a spray or three, it's hard. You'll probably have to go to a big branch of a dept store such as John Lewis. I also found L'Heure Bleu in Duty Free at Charles de Gaulle so you never know!

Also, I really avoid saying anything is old lady. I prefer the term classic! By the way, if you want French heritage fragrances, Le Jardin Retrouve is a small family run Paris house that's been around since the 70s and does a wonderful refundable discovery set.

lejardinretrouve.com/en/mini-sprays-3ml/152-discovery-set-10-fragrances-3ml-40-gift-code.html

Thanks @MissBattleaxe advice appreciated !

You could try a sample from Perfume Parlour (13ml is £5). They are copies of the original but the reviews are very good for Mitsouko (don’t think they have L’heure bleu). If you like it you can then buy a full size of the original.

L'Heure Bleu is much much stronger and more "powdery" than Mitsouko.
I'm not keen on Mitsouko because I don't like the top notes, though I don't get the "indolic" whiff that you sometimes get with overripe notes in a perfume. (like things containing jasmine can often give out, and don't get me started on anything with oud as I immediately think there's a nappy somewhere needs changing)
Perfume Parlour's version of Opium is much much nearer the old vintage from the 1980s than the abomination they sell now.
If you do want a Guerlain and you still like Opium, then you'd like Shalimar. Spicier than Opium but still with a soft smoothness that Guerlain do so well. Samsara is lighter, and is a creamy citrus with spice. You might like that.

They’re both beautiful in their own way, but both very ‘vintage’ in style, which could be a shock to the system if you’re used to modern perfumery and the fresh/fruity or sweet, gourmand styles of the past 10-20 years.

Mitsouko is particularly retro - mossy, spicy, woody, strong peach. I respect it but don’t enjoy wearing it.

L’Heure Bleue is powdery, velvety, my absolute favourite classic Guerlain with the signature ‘make up powder’ Guerlain vibe, which some people find old fashioned.

Neither are a safe blind buy if you’re not used to classic perfumery.

I tried Mitsouko when I was younger and never really liked it - even though I used to like stronger scents. Don't think I ever tried L'Heure Bleue but definitely don't do a blind safe buy unless you want to waste your money!

I once bought some guerlain meteorites powder. Wonder if it smells powdery like that did ?

I have come back I suggest you go off piste. If you are looking for a “Vintage” or “Classic” fragrance, I think perhaps you might prefer the some from the house of Carven. They have updated the two I am going to sugges, and they are both fabulous.

Eau de Carven EDP is a gorgeous Osmanthus/Floral that is delicious, but light and fresh while still feminine and classic. (Can still be worn for work and still be “grown up.”) Osmanthus lends an apricot blossom edge that sweetens what would be an otherwise fluffy, white floral.

“Ma Griffe” is an updated classic from the same era as Mitsouko and has similar Chypre notes, but in a more modern, pared-back format. It’s a fresh and clean white floral, with citrus top notes and it has the greenness of the oakmoss and woods to give it length.

I have both of these and have been known to be very evil and wear them both together occasionally.

Sorry - Carven “Le Parfum” not Eau de Parfum

@Justilou1 thanks for you advice. My dear mum who died 2 years ago at 90 loved ma griffe when I was a teenager !

There is a Guerlain Meteorites perfume!

Guerlain L’Instant Magic is a lovely, powdery perfume but slightly sweeter and less retro than L’Heure Bleue.

@einekleinenachtarbeit your late mum had great taste! @Justilou1 is dishing out excellent advice as is @Cinematik

@Cinematik, but it smells like Parma Violets. 🤢

I wear L'heure bleue as my daytime perfume

People on the bus ask me about it though it doesn't smell strong to me

I've been wearing it 30 years...

Thanks everyone

I like Mitsouko and used to wear Ma Griffe too, back in the day! Both are very distinctive fragrances; I prefer them to the very sweet overpowering scents you get now. (She said, sounding ancient).

Re Ma Griffe I remember a white and green stripped perfume box on my mums dressing table. Just checked now and yes it was Ma Griffe !

Loving this thread. My DM used to wear Ma Griffe, I loved it. I've just ordered the set from France linked to above.

I love Mitsouko and have done for years, especially the EDP, but I rarely wear it these days as it feels like it could be overpowering. But I always get compliments when I do.

I am a big Guerlain fan and these days wear the Aqua Allegoria range for everyday (I especially love the mandarine basil one, not sure they still do it), or men’s Vetiver which I find fresh and woody and rather lovely. Both in EDT.

@einekleinenachtarbeit

Re Ma Griffe I remember a white and green stripped perfume box on my mums dressing table. Just checked now and yes it was Ma Griffe !

If you want to try Ma Griffe now, hunt out a vintage version from eBay. The stuff you can get now, like many other older perfumes has been changed almost beyond recognition (see also: Blue Grass, Fidji etc) I collect vintage perfume and this thread has prompted me to change my perfume wardrobe over and get my autumn-winters out .

If you want a Guerlain classic, and usually wear citrus perfumes, can I suggest Vol de Nuit? It has quite a citrusy hit when you first spray, and then you get the lovely complexity afterwards. I think you would prefer it to L’heure Bleue.

Hermes caleche is a beautiful old school scent