➿ Fantastic Haircare: Making Sense and Science of the Curly Girl Method (thread 2)

[botemp]

Offshoot thread from the Fantastic Skincare threads to document the trials and tribulations in order to make sense and science of the curly girl method. We don't necessarily follow it to the letter and are even critical of it in places. Nor are we especially knowledgeable at this point but we're learning as we go. Feel free to join in as we attempt to approach this with an interest in ingredients and try to not buy everything that promises us magical things…

Useful blogs:

Curly Cailín on the golden triangle of healthy hair
Science-y Hair Blog
The Mestiza Muse
The Beauty Brains (podcast/blog)

Understanding ingredients:

Commonly found ingredients in haircare

Useful information about cosmetic chemistry

Porosity:

(video)


Removing build up:

Shampoos which remove product build up

Cationic compounds (of interest to those with buildup prone and/or fine hair):

Cationic compounds found in cosmetics

Polyquats (of interest to those with buildup prone and/or fine hair):

Polyquat buildup

To polyquats or not

Silicones, polyquats and soap

Another cosmetic ingredient to be afraid of?


Protein/Moisture balance:

(video)

Extract and proteins in CGM, a biochemist explains

(video)

Hygral Fatigue


SPF protection of your hair:


UV protectant ingredients

UV damage of hair (pubmed)

Summers sun and your hair

Rice water rinses:

Rice Water Rinse

Elasticity:

Is it too late to improve your elasticity

Managing elasticity and porosity in hair



Hard and soft water:

(video)

Hard water and your hair


Olaplex:

How does Olaplex hair treatment work

Frizz:

Hair frizz science

What's your frizz type

How to tame your hair based on frizz type

Flash Drying:

Flash Drying

Next level nerdery:

Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair (cosmetic chemists' textbook)

[botemp]

No I clarified and then did the curlsmith hydro creme mask.

Protein still confuses me, I think I need a smidge but no more than that.

[PickAChew]

I've given up on protein, for now. It was making a difference before my cut but losing the dry ends removed the need for it.

The way things are going, I can't see me getting my November cut as it's an hour bus ride to an area that's currently on the watch list. I'll keep the protein in the bathroom cupboard, for now.

[NinnyNewName]

Has anyone tried the Aubrey Organics Island Naturals Shampoo and Balancing Protein GPB Nutrient Blast Rosemary Peppermint Conditioner?

Protein confuses me too. Also as a minimalist I like to just have one product for each product (perhaps per sping/summer and autumn/winter like for skincare). But it doesn't really work like that with hair does it. I guess using protein for every washday is probably going to be too much.

[QueenPaws]

The treluxe sounds up my street to be honest because my hair LOVES protein. I do gelatine treatments quite a bit, probably need to do one soon
The products the right way up was a massive fail, I've somehow got flat yet frizzy hair
My hair used to be fab when I used the cantu custard but I can't cope with the flaking and nothing ever seemed to help with it

[PickAChew]

The flaking is dreadful, isn't it? I remember using it last year then letting my hair air dry on a 2.5 hour car journey and the dark grey seat was covered in flakes by the time we arrived! Shame, as I loved it when my hair was shorter but I need more hold, now. (plus, glycerine! I have a pot left in the cupboard so will probably crack it open in the autumn)

All upright doesn't work for me. I end up with hair plastered to my skull.

[QueenPaws]

Yeah it was awful! Shame as my hair looked amazing with it and I can't seem to get it how I want
Hopefully once this crap cut grows a bit I might have more luck, and I'm at the curly hairdresser next month. I'm hoping she can trim it to the right shape then it will grow into how I want

Plan for this week is to do a protein treatment and try the Harry's styling gel I have lurking

[NinnyNewName]

Hair looks good today and more importantly to me feels good.

I think I'm going to mostly avoid products with cationic surfactants for now. This knocks out Biolage HydraSource (which does feel quite heavy to me and they're a quarter way down the list). Interestingly I assumed that it was clarifying that helped with the icky build up feeling (which of course it does) but I now think it's probably aided by the fact that I don't usually use that particular conditioner after clarifying.

I'll also take an extended break from Blueberry Bliss although they're further down the INCI list. But I do think my hair likes the bit of protein in this.

Bounce Curl Clump Cream will be going in a drawer too. I like the effect it has but have suspected for a while that it's giving me build up.

I do like the Hairfinity Amino Mask and that also has them, along with protein and given that I only use it every couple of weeks I might continue. I'm strict about how long it's on for, I don't use a heat cap and I don't rinse in cool water.

I can't find any info on the Giovanni L.A. gel using the isitcgm website.

I need to better understand glycerin.

Pretty much everything I've looked up has film forming humectants. I'm not at the point where I have researched individual ingredient types. And tbh I'm not sure I'll get there. I'm just not that interested in that much nitty gritty, but then I do want to know for sure which products suit me best.

[botemp]

I don't quite know what to make of my hair this morning as it was still a proper mop of curls and my hair isn't really cut for it so it sits somewhat oddly, assume it'll settle thoughout the day.

If I ever had any doubt hydration (as opposed to faffing about with protein/moisture balance) was my issue this proves it. I'll definitely keep the hydro mask in rotation, probably once a fortnight, once a week seems a bit much maybe? I did the full 30 mins treatment option though, maybe once a week at the shorter time would work.

[SophieLion]

I had another good wash day yesterday after a rice treatment and deep condition. Had low expectations as DH was talking to me all through the styling so was paying no attention to what I was doing and then diffused for less than 10 mins as we had to go out. I feel my protein-moisture balance is good. Long may it last!! VERY happy with my new Treluxe LIC. I watched Curly Cailin's review of Treluxe. She raved about the gel. I have it but not opened it yet as waiting to use up old ones.

I think Bumble and Bumble is a much stronger shampoo Ninny and I use this once a month. I'm thinking to try the BC clarifying shampoo to use every few washes with my low poo - its apparently very gentle. Perhaps it's similar to your Phyto one. don't know much about phyto as a brand.

Re quats Ninny, I really like Spiralicious so I guess it depends on your hair type (as always!). Would re-purchase probably. I also like the biolage when I use it (I'm careful with how often and when) and I'm liking the BC clump cream a lot. I don't have answers to your other questions but I really like my Innersense low poo (it has protein) an a little goes a long way.

Look forward to hearing how the puff cuff is Ninny. I got an invisbobble recently and like it for tying my hair up during the day and during exercise but it makes my roots hurt a bit when I sleep with it at night (even though I don't loop it). Preferred my very loose hair bobble.

I was also looking at buffs Bo but couldn't find any silver/satin ones here. I could wear one of the ones that we use for skiing but think I wouldn't live it down with DH and the DCs . I'll have a look at your link. thanks.

Ooo your hair looks very different today Bo. Lots more curls and bouncier so looks shorter. I like it but its quite different to our usual wave-y look.

I also need a cut/shaping. Must book one.

[botemp]

I've looked into avoiding cationic surfactants, Ninny, as they're also buildup prone but after some research I decided to be more selective with them as they do seem to work well for me and the alternative of formulations without them is butters and oils which my hair hates.

Cationic surfactants also make butters and oils in the formulation perform/adhere better so I tend to avoid anything that has a lot of both as opposed to anything with CS in it. I also can't remember it specifically but some CS are more build-up prone than others.

The Curlsmith Hydro Creme has a high CS content but it's the least weighed down my hair has ever been and no issue forming a cast either 🤷 I think CS requires a bit more strategic planning, unfortunately.

Also, since I do shampoo/lo poo, as opposed to co wash only, buildup from CS is less likely.

I'll be curious to know how strong the gel fragrance is Sophie. I just linked to an article about the buffs before but the EU store is here.

Yeah it definitely looks shorter, which I'm okay with but had my hair actually been shorter I'd be a bit miserable 🤣 I do prefer the wave look personally and I assume it'll get back to that over the day but I'm not mad about this either. I was looking at the other Curlsmith products if there was anything else of interest that would bring the hydration but unfortunately not.

[botemp]

Actually I'm talking bollock about regular shampooing making the build-up of CS less likely. That's inaccurate as most shampoos use anionic surfactants which will not remove cationic compounds so only specific surfactants remove it. That's why I 'clarify' with the Cantu shampoo every few washes, as that has C14-16 olefin sulfonate in it. I'll buy something different when I've used that up but it does the job for now.

[SophieLion]

Will let you know re the treluxe gel when I open it Bo. The LIC does have a scent which I noticed with the first use but only while I was applying it and it didn't bother me. The LIC also contains broccoli oil which I find amusing as always used to tell my DCs "eat your broccoli, it will make your hair curly"

[SophieLion]

Yes read the article Bo. My cousin has a buff from Buff and likes it a lot. She also has a bamboo one (can't remember exact name - think curlie welsh girl on IG uses it too) and prefers the Buff one. Our skiing ones are "Buff" so should dig one out. If I recall, I have a choice between Star Wars and hello kitty and something resembling a cowboy'a neck scarf

[botemp]

Is that a thing I actually really dislike the smell of cooked broccoli. I can eat it (it's not my favourite and steaming makes the smell less bad) but I prefer to eat it raw (especially the stem, it's the best bit) and I'm fine with cooked tenderstem broccoli (aside from the ludicrous prices they charge for it, I buy organic and a choice piece of meat is probably cheaper ). 🥦🥦🥦🥦

[botemp]

I vote for Hello Kitty 😻

[NinnyNewName]

Just met with my friend who has a beautiful head of curls and has always embraced them.

She has been told that she can't use a clarifying shampoo because she has her hair bleached. Is this true? If not, any recommendations? Her natural colour is mousy if that makes a difference.

I have science fatique now. I think I'm done for a while.

[botemp]

Yeah some clarifying formulas strip colour but not all. I think the Milabu C or is it Malibu C one is meant to be good if you bleach your hair. There's several kinds though and I don't know which one would be best, manes by mell had a video on it. I think there may be one specifically for blondes.

[QueenPaws]

Given I'm not going anywhere I'll post a vote
Do I try
Harry's gel
Ecoslay jelly shot
Curls creamy curl gel

Votes please!

[botemp]

All three at once 🧟 Frankengel

Who is Harry and why does he have a hair named after him? In my mind Harry's a horse for some reason...

[QueenPaws]

it's this
https://www.harrys.com/en/gb/products/sculpting-gel

[SophieLion]

Queen, my cousin likes Harry's a lot but I think she had to figure out how to use it and she had a particular combination. So I vote Harry's!

[SophieLion]

And it gives a very hard cast (if I remember correctly) and isn't too expensive.

[QueenPaws]

Harry is in my hair it's very thick, so had to guess how much to use

[QueenPaws]

Well that was a disaster. I had to stop diffusing and coat my hair in mousse. No cast at all and it was going super frizzy. Leaving to air dry now to see if I've rescued it
My hair hates me at the minute I never get nice curls any more

[SophieLion]

Queen, I checked and my cousin did various experiments and got the best results with Harry's gel and orange marmalade together. She applies orange marmalade first then Harry's. And a LIC first.

She got flash drying when she used Harry as a single styler.

Also Bo, the treluxe LIC doesn't smell of broccoli . I also think the hello kitty buff has a fleece part on it. Don't think fleece will do my hair any favours if I sleep in it....