The making your own clothes thread

[MulberryPeony]

Just because a few of us seem likely to get back in the habit with some spare time/wanting to look expensive/capsule wardrobe/consume less.

I made quite a lot of my own clothes as a teen and early twenties but I’m not sure I’ve completed a project for me since. Hand sewing wadding into padded curtains did me in!

I’d like to make a copy of some floaty shorts and duster coat I already own. Got a fair few basic patterns for tops and throw on dresses so might make something light for summer too. I’d like some comfy trousers but worry I’d end up with something resembling pjs! Thinking of repurposing a slub woven cotton smock from a few years ago as there is oodles of fabric to go at.

I’d class myself as a beginner level but happy to adapt patterns. Button holes scare me.

Would anyone like to join me? What is on your to-make list? Any more beautiful sites for me to browse expensive looking fabrics like the merchant and mills one mentioned the other day? Does anyone know of any sites where I can look through a pattern book like the catalogues they have inside fabric shops?

Hi Namechangex10000 there are lots of resources to help you learn. Lots of people rate Tilly and the Buttons for absolute beginners, Lauren Guthrie from Guthrie and Ghani also has YouTube videos on very basic skills and I think the thrifty stitcher has tutorials as well (I've been to a class she taught and she is brilliant). There are also paid options like stitch school from Sew Over It and the Stitch Sisters online classes. I would also recommend joining The Fold Line facebook group for lots of advice and support on all aspects of dressmaking.

Regarding the bulky fabrics/jeans post above....I sometimes resort to hammering my bulky seams flat after pressing, in order to get the machine to sew them. It's a bit primitive but very satisfying and works a treat on denim. I've got a pretty powerful machine and even that has a hissy fit at times with denim and bulk.

@Namechangex10000 like so many things, you need to learn a few basic techniques re operating a machine, and also about how to choose a suitable fabric for your pattern. Fitting also - if you are slim, b cup then you will find most patterns will fit you OK. If you are larger, curvier, bigger in the bust et then you will need to source suitable patterns or make adjustments - its a bit more complicated.

www.youtube.com/channel/UC0ctEY5PWT6Q8h5NLhQzlHg
YT is good - Fashion Rebellion has some great beginners videos.

I would choose something like a skirt to make first - either A-line, or pencil skirt, using a mid weight cotton fabric. You can make with or without a zip (pencil skirt will need a zip) and it is fairly easy to fit and make. Easy to add pockets too. THere are loads of turorials out there to show you how to make a pattern & sew an a-line skirt.

Namechangex1000 when the lockdown finishes you might find a class useful. The lovely fabric shop in my town does all sorts of beginner classes where you can make a bag, a cushion, simple things so you can get to know a sewing machine and a couple of new skills each time. Once you have a bit of a head start then you can pick up more on Youtube or other tutorials.

Tilly and the Buttons book "love at first stitch" is good for absolute beginners as well.

Fitting also - if you are slim, b cup then you will find most patterns will fit you OK. If you are larger, curvier, bigger in the bust et then you will need to source suitable patterns or make adjustments

I think the thing that irritates me most about this is that the reason many of us get in to sewing is because standard sizes don't fit us or the shops don't cater for us. It's certainly why I did, I don't understand why main pattern makers aren't more on top of providing patterns for larger chested women/ breast feeders/ the very short and the very tall. They would make a fortune!

I would love to learn how to do this. I'm hopeless at this sort of thing so it would be like a 5 year old learning. I'm so envious of people who have this talent!

I don't understand why main pattern makers aren't more on top of providing patterns for larger chested women/ breast feeders/ the very short and the very tall. They would make a fortune!

There are now many great indie pattern companies

Oops posted too soon ...

Lots of indie pattern companies filling these gaps really well. Many are pdf only.

The curvysewingcollective.com/ review patterns that accommodate a range of sizes and shapes. I’ve not tried any yet but I’m planning on it. (still learning how to sew in a straight line at right seam allowance)!

@Mycatismadeofstringcheese the Curvy Sewing Collective have a fantastiC FB group. Very helpful, great advice and knowledgeable help if you need it. All about the sewing no bullshit very lovely international group.

I think Tilly and the Buttons are a good place to get started with sewing as the patterns are very well documented. Another good one is Sew Over It. I prefer her aesthetic to Tilly's whose recent patterns have been a bit unusual.

Pages back someone mentioned deer and doe. I have their Arum dress pattern and the instructions are in English and French. Their sizing is possibly a little smaller than uk standard.

For sportswear/stretch fabrics I really rate a Canadian company called Jalie. I've made their Isabelle leggings and Tessa ice skating dress and both have come out really nicely. Huge size ranges on their patterns, generally kiddie to uk20. This means the sheets are a nightmare and you have to trace off.

I struggle with some of the instructions on the big 4 patterns, most of the.time can't get them right in my head, they really expect you to have a higher basic skill level than a lot of the indies. Kwik Sew patterns aren't too bad but the are simple designs.

I'm a bit annoyed with myself as I ran over a pin in my overlocker and I think I've goosed the blade. I've ordered a new.one, but how long it'll take to show up is a different matter.

One of the things I miss in lockdown is the ability to go Abakhans for a rummage in their fabric by the kilo.

I’ve started making a thing. It’s dreadful. But things I have learned:

1. Taking a pattern of an existing tshirt is not as easy as it looks on YouTube. Next time I will use a proper pattern.

1. When using a serger you have to unlock the blade or the seams go all wonky!

1. When you pick up the serge yo put it away you need to relive the blade otherwise you’ll cut your fingers (fortunately not too badly)

1. The thin drapey viscose that the original garment is made from makes the slightly tshirt hang well. Cotton single Jersey does not drape as well and looks boxy. Husband said new tshirt looked like a dentists tabbard!

But I’m proud of it. The body of it fits ok. I’ve not done the neckband or hemmed it yet and even though I’m never going to wear it (Dentist tabbard!) I’m going to still add them to practice.

That's great Mycat. Well done.

*relock not relive.

I’ve realised I don’t really understand fabric. Buying it online is really tough both in terms of colour, feel and properties.

Congrats Mycat, you are now on a path full of adventure ...
Buy cheap fabric online or ask to be sent a sample, you may have to pay a couple of pounds but it's worth it if the fabric is very expensive.
Of course sometimes the fun is rethinking how to use a fabric which isn't quite what you expected .
Right now I am looking at a piece of material (from my stash) which isn't big enough for the pattern I wanted to use, and wondering how I can adapt my idea. I think I'm enjoying myself!

Ouch @Mycat well done for giving it a go.

Thanks for the encouragement. I’ve just remembered that I didn’t wash the fabric so it will probably shrink the first time I wash it! I quarantined the parcel when it arrived for a few days and completely forgot about washing it first before cutting into it!.

I forgot to add I didn’t add quite enough hem allowance so it’s a tiny bit too short anyway!

Just as well I’m already resigned to never wearing it. Even so, I really enjoyed the process of making it.

@forgetthehousework, have you tried re-jigging thw pattern ? I often find I can cut 1/4 yard metre off what they say is needed

The Great British Sewing Bee: Fashion with Fabric by Claire-Louise Hardie I love this book. Has thirty patterns lots of colour photos and some are easy some are hard. It is from 2015 so not right upto date but very clear for a beginner and do able. I am no seamstress but used their corset pattern to make my daughter a wonderwoman cosplay and it turned out fabulous.

Also has a wide variety of patterns, trousers, t shirts,shorts, skirts, blouse, dress. Most are timeless. I think out of print but available on eBay, make sure the patterns are included

Being able to choose Suitable fabric is a huge learning curve and big part of successful sewing.

Thanks for the interest Oldraver, but I'm way short of the amount I need; however, as it is victorian inspired, I have cut out the bodice and some sleeve caps in the floral fabric and sleeves lapel/facing and collar in black, which is the background colour in the floral. I'll also put some black ribbon lacing in the back, floral cuffs and black buttons. It might sound a bit odd but will fit my steampunk aesthetic beautifully and the silhouette is inspired by a studio photograph of my grandmother taken in the late 1890s when she was about twenty.

Hello! I'd like to join in.
Had my sewing machine serviced last year and have been repairing and altering a couple of things. Would love to make a pair of trousers (Toast style/ workwear).
The problem will be finding patterns with sizing that reflects reality and finding fabric. I have some cotton lining fabric to make a mock-up.
Need to read the posts so far...

I'll be joining in here when my current work project is finished - just something @Tollergirl said really rang true - drafting is everything. I actually did a pattern cutting class twenty years ago and learned so much. You can make your own straight skirt block perfectly to your own size from instructions I'm sure you can find on the web - you could probably draw it on baking paper stuck together, it's a very plain narrow block. Then alter that block to pencil or flared. It sounds complicated, but nailing a basic skirt is a great place to start. Just remember that blocks don't have seam allowances, but helpfully they do give you the exact line to sew!

The Vogue book of sewing has lots of hints and tips of how to alter patterns.

Here's a great tutorial and there are LOADS of youtube tutorials it looks like!

inthefolds.com/blog/2015/10/15/draftingaskirtblock

You don't even have to do a waistband, you can just draft a facing from the top of the block. zip in the back or sides and away you go.