The making your own clothes thread

[MulberryPeony]

Just because a few of us seem likely to get back in the habit with some spare time/wanting to look expensive/capsule wardrobe/consume less.

I made quite a lot of my own clothes as a teen and early twenties but I’m not sure I’ve completed a project for me since. Hand sewing wadding into padded curtains did me in!

I’d like to make a copy of some floaty shorts and duster coat I already own. Got a fair few basic patterns for tops and throw on dresses so might make something light for summer too. I’d like some comfy trousers but worry I’d end up with something resembling pjs! Thinking of repurposing a slub woven cotton smock from a few years ago as there is oodles of fabric to go at.

I’d class myself as a beginner level but happy to adapt patterns. Button holes scare me.

Would anyone like to join me? What is on your to-make list? Any more beautiful sites for me to browse expensive looking fabrics like the merchant and mills one mentioned the other day? Does anyone know of any sites where I can look through a pattern book like the catalogues they have inside fabric shops?

Well I made my cuff top and it's a triumph actually wearable! Got completely carried away and bought the cuff dress pattern and a load of denim fabric to makeup up with. Only hope my machine is up to my new-found enthusiasm!

I am mainly altering existing garments or using them for fabric. I do a bit of dying but with newer clothes I have to consider affect of polyester thread not taking up the dye. Am considering tie dying a white dress as maybe undyed thread would be less obvious, but also thinking of trying embellishments like ribbons or embroidery (zigzag maybe) to disguise the white thread. Has anybody dealt with this problem successfully & can advise how they deal with it?

Hello! I'd love to join in , I used to make so many of my own clothes but haven't for a while, until lockdown.

I have a trusty Janome, and I'm 3/4 way through a summer dress in white broderie. I always have to make it harder for myself! It would have been far quicker to make it in non-see-through cotton poplin but the broderie requires both underlining and interlining on the bodice, straps, skirt.... But I'm pleased so far, the fit is good and it's turning out well. (I think).

Next on the sewing table is another summer dress (an easy make hopefully, cotton, pull-on so no zips or buttons), an autumn A-line dress with sleeves and finally a 60s shimmery mini dress which I'm really looking forward to making

Zinnia well done for a successful make! Will you be posting a pic? I'd love to see it.

Djangor I've dyed some items and found the best way to overcome the white thread issue is to dip-dye (ombre effect), rather than tie-dye (I think tie-dye can be too hit and miss on a finished item - ideally the fabric would be tie-dyed before the item was made to ensure optimal pattern placement) .

For dip-dye, I started with the dye at the hem, getting paler around the hips and waist and left the top part white as that's where the white stitching that hadn't taken to the dye would be most obvious, whereas the bottom hem doesn't matter so much. Also I think it looks better to have the dyed area at the bottom of the dress than at the top. If you're interested in a basic rundown of how I did it let me know, otherwise there's info online re dip dyeing items (several different techniques to try, some are better than others and there's some hiccups to avoid).

Thanks @SewingDreams I nearly posted a pic but I've put it on Instagram so would be rather outing! I will post my next one which will have better finishing

Got a bit carried away and ordered a TAL kaftan dress pattern in the hopes that I can make it before I go on holiday, then couldn't find any plain linen fabric that wasn't £££ until I had a brainwave and ordered a tablecloth from H&M to use! So will let you know how that works out...

@Djangor3725 I machine dye things quite often and the best way I've found of dealing with stitching is to go over it with a matching sharpie - not perfect as polyester thread doesn't take the colour as well as cotton (which is of course the problem) and it takes ages to do, especially when something has topstitching, but it does minimise the contrast.

Thank you so much Zinnia & Sewing Dreams - never tried dip dying or thought of using a sharpie - brilliant ideas. Think you are quite right re the problem with tie-dying - I know tie dyed garments are fashionable now so thought it might be worth trying but my only actual knowledge of doing it is with my aunt a couple of decades ago & we only produced circles on the front of t-shirts. Tips on the actual rundown for dip dying would be great.

Certainly Djangor!

Wash and leave damp the dress. Put the dress on a hanger.
Prepare an area that you can hang the dyed dress up to dry - line the floor and surrounding areas with plastic bags and old towels so it can drip onto them. If nowhere is safe inside from splashes, pick a dry day and find somewhere outside to do the dyeing and to hang the dress from.
Make up the cold water dye sachet as per the instructions. It's easier to dye something wide like a dress if you use a large wide plastic storage box, rather than a bucket. You need the dress hem as wide and spread out as possible and a large plastic storage box has the width whereas a bucket doesn't.
By holding the hanger, dip the dress in to the highest point you want the dye to reach. (usually chest area, but below the neckline, so the shoulders and neck stitching doesn't get dyed). Hold it in for 6 seconds or so then take it out.
Return the dress to the dye but go to a point around 2 inches lower than the first dip. Hold it in for a little longer, perhaps 20 seconds. Take it out and then return to dye bath, again 2 inches lower than the second dip.
Continue on like this until the whole dress is dyed. The bottom will have been dipped many times by the time you get to the end so it will be a lot darker than the top which gives the ombre effect.
Leave dress to dry completely before washing as per the instructions on the packet.

A couple of things to note:

1. The dye at the top will naturally run out towards the bottom so you need to judge how long to leave your first dip in - it's worth going for 6 seconds to see how it looks but it might need longer. You can always return it to the dye bath but once it's done too dark you can't really wash it out and start again so just judge it as you're going.
2. The dress will dry a little lighter than it looks when wet.
3. Make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed up before you add it to the dye bath water, as if it's not dissolved properly you can get annoying sprinkles of dark dye here and there which can ruin your pale areas
4. Before dyeing, when the dress is damp, take time to arrange it carefully on the hanger - straighten it up, make sure it's not creased and the layers aren't stuck together as this will result in an uneven dye line and creased dye effect.

@SewingDreams awesome dip dyeing instructions thank you!

I am still to make anything but I have been looking at patterns and still fancy my first project being a re-jig of an oversize top I already own.

I’ve also been reading the reviews on some of the patterns (I never knew they existed before this thread) and that has given me some good information.

@Lightswitches thank you, I did check fabric requirements on several skirt patterns and just as you said I’ve surmised that a different style skirt is the way to go. But I lost the mojo for that one. I have instead made jersey top from the House of Pinheiro sewing book that I borrowed from the library. It’s my first time ever tracing a pattern and using a pattern. I had some jersey left over from trying to make a tube skirt years ago so decided it would be a good opportunity to practice some skills. I have to say it worked surprisingly well. I have a top I could actually wear - there are issues but I’ve seen tops with similar issues for actual sale in actual shops so I’m quite pleased. I would like to learn how to tweak the fit though so I can make a top that fits better around the bust and armpits. That’s the next step.

There’s not much else I’m keen on in the book. And review wise I noted that the pattern sheet paper was made up of more than one segment of paper glued together, and the printing of the pattern line wasn’t smooth across the join. Unnecessarily shoddy!

This thread is an absolute GEM!!

Joining..

I've made oodles of Halloween costumes over the years and I alter a lot of items I buy for myself in second hand shops, but I'd love to see what I'd end up with if I tried making something from scratch for myself.

THank you so much, Ssewingdreams. Brilliant instructions. Will have a look at what I have that is suitable to use instead of a bucket. Looking forward to trying this technique.

@banivani is the House of Pinheiro book good, I follow her blog but she doesn’t post regularly.

I’m almost finished with a long dress from a Burda magazine but the skirt has a few layers and is going to be a pain to hem. So many sewing projects lined up though.

You're welcome, all!

Zinnia good thinking on the tablecloth! Fabric can be soo expensive especially linen.

Mulberry I usually look online for pattern reviews of a pattern I'm interested in, it is so helpful to see other people's makes isn't it! I have also found many a delightful sewing blog that way.

I am nearly there with my white dress. I'm just deciding whether to under stitch, topstitch or edgestitch the bodice and its lining. I'm leaning towards edgstitching currently as the straps are quite thick with the broderie and the cotton lining, so I don't think they'd sit nicely with under stitching. Edgestitching might be pushing it a little too, but I think I can do it, if I keep a steady hand. I'm not always a fan of topstitching 1/4" around a reasonably fitted bodice neckline as it can occasionally cause the edge line to go wavy, which is very annoying!

I use second hand linen table cloths, curtains and bedding - it's great fun and reasonably cheap (been tricky these last few months as the charity shops were closed)

Hello everyone. So pleased to have found this thread. I've been enjoying sewing during lockdown and have successfully made a few beginner pieces and am now avidly watching YouTube videos, buying patters and fabrics etc.

Katymac that green patterned dress is lovely. Stunning fabric.

I was wondering if anyone was planning any autumn makes? Although I don't want to wish the summer away I am mindful that I need to think ahead so as to have some me made items ready for the cooler months. If anyone has go-to autumn dresses or 'sewable' jumpers I'd be pleased to have your recommendations.

Thank you.

The Simple Sew Cocoon dress is back in stock on their website - I can't remember who was waiting for it to tag you!

www.simplesewpatterns.com/products/the-cocoon-dress

@Wildernesstips I’m not sure if it’s good - she’s at some sort of spot between beginner and intermediate which could be interesting I suppose? None of the projects really grabbed me bar the top, and like I said the pattern piece was irregular so that’s a bit of a shame. Posting a photo. I’d borrow it before buying it iykwim. It’s very “her” I think, I’m not familiar with the blog but the book reads as a very personal approach to sewing, lots of info on things she’s found interesting to learn but I had to check stuff with YouTube

Thanks @toomuchlikemyusername we are trying to work out of the curtains are 50s/60s/70s

Katy I think those curtains are early 70s! I could be wrong though! Really great pattern placement BTW!

Banivani What sort of sewing level are you? I might be able to recommend something different if the book you were looking at didn't capture your heart.

Thanks @SewingDreams the pattern placements caused me some work (& the words used were 'interesting') I have to be honest!

I have my first (virtual) exhibition tomorrow and I am nervous as hell!

Kitty thank you. Pattern ordered. Just need some nice fabric. Am thinking Viscose but have only ever sewn with cotton before.

A while back I posted that I have been quilting. Have made a few cushions and Harry Potter baby quilt. Hopefully the mum likes it.

Thanks @SewingDreams - please do recommend! I’m a beginner with intermediate aspirations - ie I understand/have read a lot of theoretical sewing but haven’t actually done any of it. I like line drawings that are clear and in general have trouble understanding construction because am a dunce.

banivani I started out by making a simple patchwork quilt in squares. It got my confidence and the sewing machine going, it comes together quickly and it's a useful item to have

After that I think I went onto a simple shift dress - I can't remember which one but it was very similar to the Simplicity Jiffy 1609 Dress, which has two main pattern pieces in effect. Simple starts are good, it doesn't have need to be a complicated pattern with lots of pieces. It's attention to finish and detail which can make simple look very special and chic

Katy Mac my Nan had those exact curtains!!!!! Built her house in 1969-1970 so they would have been bought then. I still have the matching cushions