Skincare routine makeover

[AppleScoop]

Please help. I’ve always been told that I have fabulous skin but I’ve hit the age of 43 and I don’t any more. It’s still clear but its looking lacklustre and my frown lines and wrinkles around my mouth have suddenly become very obvious. Can I tell you my routine and the products I use and could you suggest some alternatives/changes please? I’d be very grateful….

My skin is generally ’normal’ with a little bit of grease on my T-zone. I don’t have an endless budget so I’m looking for good value suggestions please! Thanks so much.

• Facewash with face brush - I change the brand regularly as my skin gets used to whatever I’m using and I then get spots. It’s currently Elemis Superfood Facial Wash. I LOVE using facewashes. My skin doesn't feel clean without using one. I rarely wear make up but when I do, I remove it with eye make up remover before using the face wash.
• Clarins Toning Lotion with Camomile (Dry/Normal) - I usually use Liz Earle Instant Boost Skin Tonic but ran out
• The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution - just on the areas where I get blackheads on my nose.
• The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
• The Ordinary Matrixyl 10% + HA
• The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane - night time only
• The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA - I usually use this at night but as my skin’s dry currently I’m using it i the day too
• Perricone MD Face Finishing Moisturizer Tint - day only

You’re going to hate this but...

Face washes can be very drying. And a face brush can be a bit harsh if you mean one with bristles (especially a motorized one). Used together especially, they’re probably not great for the integrity of your skin and it’s barrier function. The salicylic product will exacerbate this. Salicylic acid is great, but on top of all that physical exfoliation and used everyday it overkill.

This means your skin will struggle to retain moisture and stay hydrated. You mention skin looking lackluster and lines looking more prominent. Those are key signs your skin is struggling to stay hydrated- hydration is what makes it look glows, plump, full, vibrant.

You’re using a Matrixyl and Hyularonic Acid serum, which should promote the barrier function and add hydration, but if you keep scrubbing off and washing away the top layer of your skin, you’re really working against yourself.

So, really, seriously, I’d consider making your cleansing routine a bit gentler. And using the salicylic product every other day.

The other thing would be have a think about whether you’re applying enough of the Face Finishing Tint to get a proper spf 30 effect. That would be about one third to one half a teaspoon per application (face and neck). So a 59ml jar of that product would last you 24-36 days. You really need the sun protection as you’re using a retinol daily.

Advice has recently changed- it used to be said that there was little effective difference between spf 30 and spf 50 products. However, as people don’t tend to use enough product to achieve the advertised spf, it’s better to use a higher spf, as then you’re still not getting the advertised spf, but you are getting more like an adequate level. As you’re using a retinol daily, it’s vital you get adequate sun protection.

Basically I think the feeling you consider to indicate “clean skin” is in fact indicating “damaged skin”.

Thanks for your replies. I really appreciate them. You're right - I didn't want to hear about the face wash! I have no idea on how to get properly clean skin without it. I've used Elemis face balm in the past but it just led to blocked pores on my nose. This is my problem area for blackheads - and the only place I use the salicylic acid.

Have you tried an oil cleanser? I just use Simple and it has been great for me. I also don't get on with balms - they do leave a film and then another wash leaves my skin feeling dry. If you can't give up the face wash, try swapping from a brush to a muslin or flannel for more gentle cleansing. Vitamin C will help brighten and Azeliac acid has been fantastic for me - I get both mine from Garden of Wisdom - sold at victoria health. As for the deeper wrinkles, botox and fillers. It may not be your thing, but the botox works (I'm not brave enough for fillers).

Can I recommend neals yard frankincense (I think) cleanser. You rub it on to wet skin and smooth off with a muslin or flannel. It feels heavenly.

If you're not wearing make up I would have thought your face wouldn't actually be that "dirty". I know what you mean though - i take my make up off the night before but I still use a face wash every morning to take off night time products but I don't use a brush. There's no need.

And be careful with vitamin c products. They do brighten your skin but my god, the blocked pores and blackheads!

Oh does vit c block pores? Can anyone recommend a product that doesn't please?

Good shout on the sunblock. I'd better step that up.

Are you sure they’re blackheads and not just sebaceous filaments? Apparently you can’t get rid of those

Well they look like blackheads in my 10x magnifying mirror! Definitely blocked pores though - which have much improved since I changed back to Dermalogica a week ago.