Retinol v hyaluronic acid v glycolic acid?!

[whereiscaroline]

My skin is looking really old and I want to start a proper skincare regime.

I've bought some Nip & Fab glycolic wipe things. But I'm reading online that I should be trying hyaluronic acid and retinol products and I just can't work out what's what and which product to use when and aaaaaaargh.

Please can someone in the know tell me the correct skincare regime with these products?

Fruitcider- I don't give a shiney shite if you're the Lord Mayor of Trumpton, profhilo is the emporers new clothes.

And what are you basing your knowledge on exactly? Dr google?

The problem with profhilo administration is that practitioners are using it for the wrong purpose, or not offering a 3rd treatment where it's needed. All of my patients have had extremely good results but I only offer it to people who I know will get a good result in let of letting people burn their money.

No, not Dr Google. I recently had it done. 2 sessions. Zero difference. Dr who did it said she gets very little repeat business on it and is thinking of stopping it but I was determined to go ahead due to being a sheep

Ahh ok, so personal opinion based on clinical evidence then?

FruitCider - re "I'm yet to see a high quality research paper proving this I'm afraid."

Fear not, your friend Cote is will help you fill that hole in your otherwise perfect command of cosmetic dermatology literature

Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humans

S. Manjula Jegasothy, MD, Valentina Zabolotniaia, MD, and Stephan Bielfeldt, DIPL. BIO.-ING

Abstract

Results: The results of the study showed a statistically significant moisturizing effect of the product range (lotion, serum, and cream, after 2,4, and 8 weeks of treatment. Measurement of skin roughness showed a significantly finer skin structure after two weeks of treatment, and skin elasticity showed a significant improvement after 2 and 8 weeks of treatment.

Conclusion: The new nano-hyaluronic acid clearly demonstrated a significant benefit in decreasing the depth of wrinkles (up to 40%), and skin hydration (up to 96%) and skin firmness and elasticity were significantly enhanced (up to 55%) at the end of eight weeks.

Cote the study you have quoted was of 33 people with no control group, hardly what I would call a high quality study.

By the way I think you misspelt "freind".

@fruitcider would love to know how you know who Profhilo will work on? Is it those who already have a face full of fillers and Botox? I had 2 sessions and looked exactly the same afterwards, so disappointing.

First step is good cleansing. Try double cleansing - first oil based cleanser balm like Body Shop Camomile Balm Cleanser, Clinique Take the Day Off, Hada Labo Gokujun Cleansing oil or Pixi Double cleanse. 2nd cleanse: Go for a gentle, non foaming cleanser. Good ones are Avène Extremely Gentle Cleanser, La Roche Posay Toleriane Dermo Cleanser or CeraVe hydrating Cleanser.

Sunscreen - best anti ageing. A MUST if you use any acids, retinols, peels etc. Asian sunscreens are v popular as they're often a much lighter texture or gel.

Hydration: oily or dry, you're probably dehydrated. Add light layers of hydration with hydrating toners with Hyaluronic Acid, glycerin or panthenol. If you don't get on with HA, try something like Pyunkang Yul Essence Toner. Hydrating toners are very different from heavily astringent, stripping toners of yore.

If you're starting new products, I beg you to patch test and introduce products slowly, one by one. Don't overdo acids, retinoids/retinols etc. Do once a week and gently increase.
Azelaic Acid is a great start. Helpful with texture, acne, redness etc. This one is popular and silicone free.

Moisturisers: Clinique moisturise Surge, LRP Toleriane Ultra, Avène Skin Recovery cream. Possibilities are endless but generally better to avoid heavily fragranced.

Watch Gothamista on YouTube. Her videos from last year on hydrating toners, essences etc are good. Liah Yoo, Dr Sam Bunting etc

Oh, make sure you "seal" in the Hyaluronic Acid with something on top, moisturiser or oil. Otherwise it can conversely dry out your skin.

Many find Rosehip oil helpful for oily, Marula or Squalane for dry.

Dr Sam's Skincare club is another helpful Fb group or the Ordinary one already mentioned. Caroline Hirons blog, videos and cheat sheets.

MorningCuppa Skin can't be oily and dry because dryness is a lack of oil. You're likely to be dehydrated, a nice hydrating serum with hyaluronic acid will sort that out. An exfoliant will sort out any textural issues. BHAs are good for acne prone/oily skin - Paula's Choice do good ones. Or if blocked pores aren't an issue then glycolic or lactic acid.

Fwiw my skin improved drastically when I stopped double cleansing. It's more balanced an hydrated and hardly ever feels tight anymore.

I have double cleansed using the Body Shop Camomile but I don't usually wear makeup (although I do try to use sunscreen). As I have sensitive skin, I like Pai Rose & Camellia Cleanser. Another one recommendation was REN Evercalm Cleanser.

Many like Paula's Choice 2% BHA for closed comedones. There's also a aloe BHA toner that's quite popular if you like Korean skincare.

Fave sunscreens? I'm struggling here. I think my face prefers mineral.

• @fruitcider would love to know how you know who Profhilo will work on? Is it those who already have a face full of fillers and Botox? I had 2 sessions and looked exactly the same afterwards, so disappointing.*

Women who are at least 45 years old with premature skin ageing from smoking and sunbathing - there should be multiple fine lines all over the skin surface and the skin should be "crepy" when it's pinched together eg wrinkle up like tissue paper.

Fruit - Ah OK. We shall inform the President of Miami Skin Institute and Associate Clinical Professor of Dermatology at the University of Miami,
Dermatologist at Aesthetic Medicine Institute of St. Petersburg, and CTO & Director of Research at proDERM Institute for Dermatological Research of Hamburg that an aesthetic nurse somewhere in the UK judged their study low quality to win internet points

Read it and look at the photos. You might learn something.

You clearly don't understand critical analysis, otherwise you'd realise that it doesn't matter what letters the authors have after their name. If you need some guidance, CONSORT or CASP have some great tools to help you get started. HTH x

(Not to mention that dermatop, the product in the study, is manufactured by a company called Proderm, which is who one of the authors work for...)

Blatant place marking

thanks for the info @Fruitcider. I am 53 with sun damaged creepy skin and it had no effect on me.

Crepey!!

May I ask,

1. what helps with the deep wrinkle between the eyebrows, that makes you look worried? Any non expensive options? exercises?

2. Also what about the bags under the eyes?

3. Is it possible to put products on the upper eye lid to tighten them?

The ONLY thing that helps with the wrinkles between the brows is Botox. NOTHING else will help, so don't waste your money.

Tear trough filler for under eyes.

Only upper eyelid surgery works to tighten the skin. You could however try the eyelid strips, which are ded cheap and offer a temporary solution.

Sorry to say all this. I wish I could tell you that there's a great cream that will work but I'm afraid there isn't, although do get yourself on an acid/vit c/retinol regime for all round skin improvement.

Gosh, I’m more confused than I was before!

Me too.

I did find out last night though that it's ok to use topical retinol creams when breastfeeding.

Which has opened a new big can of worms! Where the hell to start?!