🐌 Fantastic Skincare: Happy Snail Year, Bring Spoons!

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I am very slowly working on consolidating the gathered information from previous threads into easier to read formats but it’s slow going. In order to make use of the below form and join in I would suggest reading thread 1 and at the very least the following info sheets (provided they apply to you):

Where to Start

Basics of an Actives Routine

Skin Types vs. Skin Conditions Info Sheet

Anti-Ageing Info sheet

Adult Acne Info Sheet

NEWish since previous threads:

Understanding Which Sunscreen(s) to Buy

Do I Really Need to Wear Sunscreen Every Single Day of the Year?

A Damaged Skin Barrier - Now What?

For those who are taking a peek and wondering what this all about, we mostly discuss a bit of advanced skincare here with a perspective of seeking out the right ingredients (rather than the latest new shiny product and all its empty promises) for our particular skin needs. Distinguishing the acid toners from the actives whilst avoiding the truly unimpressive and harmful ingredients with a hope to achieve a bit of anti-ageing, alleviate irritation and sensitivities with some idle chat in between. Newcomers are always welcome but please note the following:

Questions and asking for help on this thread is encouraged, however, we can’t give you a specific routine to follow and hope it works out for the best. There are no overnight miracles in skincare whether it be in the form of products or techniques. It’s about perseverance, understanding your skin, assessing its needs and responding to that in a diligent manner.

These threads were created to help those who want to learn for themselves. We’re a group of interested and invested skincare nuts happy to offer tea and sympathy and dole out advice. Everyone’s journey with skincare is different, what is universal and binds us is that through actually learning about the different active ingredients it helps us get to know our skin and help us adapt as it will change many times throughout our lives - with seasons, hormonal changes, ageing, genetics etc. It's in everyone's best interests to get to know their skin and to keep reviewing those changes with the confidence that comes from the gathered knowledge here. We really encourage you to spend the time reading through previous threads and linked info sheets that the many contributors have taken the trouble to share.

By no means are we experts, we're only a bunch of amateurs that can only respond by suggesting what we would do in your place, for any severe conditions please seek out professional help.

Ahem, and finally a little note on spending. I'm well aware these threads cause many to reach for their wallets and spend with wild abandon. There can sometimes be a bit of a frenzy surrounding the excitement around a newly discovered product or on the back of great improvements when someone reports back. This is all great, it doesn't however, mean everything that's a sudden miracle for one will be it for you. Usually, it's a light bulb moment for connecting the right skincare ingredient with an individual experiencing a specific problem. Take your time to mull over decisions and question whether it's right for you too. Skincare is highly individual, it's a slow game that should cost mostly in patience, input, education, and perseverance. Please don't make it cost you financially needlessly.

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JANUARY 2018: Thread 11! we're getting old. A recap of The Snailies categories for those still meaning to get round to them:

🐌🐌 THE SNAILIES 2017 🐌🐌

The Well Hello There - newest and latest find that gets your motor running

The Flusher- money spent on this product would have been better put to use by flushing it down the toilet

The Jack & Rose- the product you’ll never let go of because there’s plenty of fucking space for the two of you on that piece of wood. Damn you, James Cameron, for breaking my poor little tween heart.

The LTB- it all seemed so promising, everything was going so great, then they turned out to be a narcissist gaslighting bastard

The Child Prodigy- that one product that’s annoyingly good and isn’t afraid to be smug about it

The Worker Bee- never the centre of attention but has been steadily chugging along like no other

The Troll- the one where you repeatedly asked, ‘Is this doing anything?’, but continued to use it anyway…

The Flabbergaster- that one product or technique that wasn’t really supposed to be used like that or delivered well beyond your non-existent expectations

The Sinner- oh, admit it because we’re all guilty of it, what did you do or use that wasn’t all that sensible like take an acid bath and had the disastrous results you really knew to expect

As I recall there wasn't a lot love for it because of the silicones. I have just applied some of the Neutrogena hydro boost water gel now over my lrp toleraine fluide (oil free), because I'm needing a hydro boost as it were, so you reminded me jdster that I have this so thanks for that

I just watched a bit of Dr Dray's video and I just can not watch her because she is too anorexic looking so it makes me feel uncomfortable watching her.

Sophie Treating my skin with more respect rather than fighting it really helped with acne/spots. I still get spots but just an odd one at hormonal times. Not the constant painful cystic ones of a few years ago. Also worked out that I am wheat intolerant and react badly to refined sugar. Reducing those has made the biggest difference in the spots battle. If I cut them out completely I never get spots.

No-one looks good on an iPhone photo. Not without contouring make up and/or filters and about 56 deleted photos to get to the decent one. I read an article once about how it distorts perspective and something about the light and shade being off. I've taken photos of gorgeous people and they haven't looked right. Ignore them. If you feel like you're looking good then you are looking good. 💗

just an odd one at hormonal times.

Hmm. Unless I've been eating chocolate ice cream, brownies and pancakes with Nutella. Like I might have over the past two weeks.

Or if like me you decide to apply your emergency foundation thats been hanging around in your bag for too long, >>shudder

Sorry Tant I hope you feel better soon. Coughs are so annoying.

I feel like a squirty bath toy right now

I have however just cheered myself up by purchasing LRP toleraine dermo-cleanser, LRP thermal spring water and LRP Micellar water yay
But all of which I've just noticed are awaiting stock. big fat hairy

If it is hormonal, mint, then that's more an internal medical thing. You can choose to up the BHA use around certain days or use a BHA wash in the morning during specific times of the month.

Which SPF are you considering mint? We've been discussing two recently, the physical one and the Cicabio.

Sophie, I have similar issues with MO and occlusives in general. It's not that my skin reacts to the ingredient itself but it's what it does that irritates. Anything that 'closes' off my skin (that includes quite a few silicones, but not all) makes it sweaty and irritated so tackling hydration is a series of thin hydrating layers rather than relying on one giant thirst quencher. For me it's most important to protect my barrier, despite being sensitive and reactive my skin can handle a lot wrt actives but once it goes wrong the effect is enormous, so I'm always guarding the balance and that's also what motivates what I will and won't use. So acid exfoliators are used at a minimum as they primarily wear away, whereas Niacinamide, a retinol (or similar), or Vit C product will help further strengthen my barrier. My skin does ask for hydration (though a lot less than it used to as it's better able to retain moisture now) but rarely needs moisturising ingredients. Like others on here I definitely got trapped into the richer moisturisers trap early on, it seems like a logical response to parched skin but it's about the worst thing I can subject my skin to.

Enid, if you're not in a hurry, I'm ordering the Medik8 R-Retinoate sometime over the next few days (have to time the delivery a bit) and I can choose a mini sample with it, if they have the Tetra available I can get that for you and post on.

The collective skin texture issue, any chance it is just the time of the year? I tend to always write the entire month of February off as my energy is always at its lowest, which equally affects my mood, the weather is always shittier than you want it to be, it's still bloody winter and I'm pretty sure it's the most unflattering natural light too. This year is extra shit as I need to get passport photos taken, which I hate because I'm a control freak, the last time I ended up looking like a Sumo wrestler's ghost with a hunchback. I can't make up my mind whether to get my haircut and risk being photographed with once more ruined hair for the next ten years or get two sets of photographs done in case hair does magic things. Ditto on the eyebrow extensions, although I'm wondering if I really need them, they're really not missing much. Stupid February.

JDSTER, I very rarely use face powder, but I'm not oily so it's just not a necessity and I generally just wear a bit of concealer and that's it. I do agree with Dr. Sam in certain regards that the heavy duty long-wearing makeup can't be all that good for skin, I suspect that for some a lot of oil production issues would have a more 'normal' production if they weaned off wearing makeup regularly, as it's basically sucking out the oils on your skin which encourages the production of more. It's part of a viscious cycle I think, it's there to cover up skin issues but it's creating some too.

miffy, I'm not liking the look of that LRP HA cream as it has Alcohol Den. quite high up in the INCI as well as Fragrance.

JDSTER, Dr. Dray uses the one for dry skin as that is without fragrance, I don't think that one is available in the UK, just the one with fragrance. She actually prefers the Hada Labo version but that has MI in it.

I get the issue with makeup it’s just that the thought of not using powder ....
In videos where she’s using differin she puts on the hydro boost on wet skin. I’ve got loads of NIOD mmha so don’t need anything else- I just wondered what you thought of ingredients. Tant obviously works well for you, glad I was able to remind you

Bo sorry I should have said, it's the cicabio one I was thinking about?

I hate all photos of myself too (body dismorphia here)

Used the eye cream this eve and no stinging or uncomfortable feelings so will keep you all posted

Dr Emma recommended not using powder - I recoiled in horror!

Notes from my routine from her below:

"Avoid powder, where possible, especially around the lower face and chin. Matte surfaces don’t allow light to ‘pop’ off the skin. Try blotting papers instead (I like MAC and Screenface). If powder is a must, try Armani Luminous Silk Powder."

I said no way would blotting papers cut it - I need powder to set my makeup or else it would slide off immediately!

I haven't yet bought the Armani as I'd just bought some loose powder, but think probably time to give it a whirl.

I have a Bobbi Brown powder compact in my handbag, wrestling my powder from my cold dead hands!

I've also started the oral antibiotics (lymecycline) as they take several weeks to start working, and my acne is so atrocious that I decided not to wait it out to see if the Duac made any difference. My skin is dreadful, so I'd rather attack from all sides and try and get the breakouts under control

I think I'm getting on better with the Toleraine Riche rather than the Fluide, as I hadn't quite realised how dehydrated my skin had got. After cleansing it feels uncomfortably tight, so it's feeling much more comfortable with a richer moisturiser. I'd never have chosen it otherwise, as I'd have been scared of anything labelled for dry skin, given I'm used to being super oily.

I have the start of a migraine....

How are you managing without powder banana or have you still been using it. If you haven't used powder has your makeup slid off?

Can I ask, the notes you're referring to, were they emailed to you or is it your own notes?

banana I had anti-biotics for acne for a couple of years. They were brilliant and reduced oiliness on my face and my hair roots. I had perfect skin. They do take a while to get going but hopefully they'll do the trick. Good luck!

If they do, that would be really good of you bo Thank you!

I think I've had texture issue for a while but possibly seems worse to me due to low mood which could be the time of year. Plus cold dark days and low mood means I eat comforting (sugary!) things more.

What are we like clinging on to our powders

Bananafish does Dr Emma say no powder because it's bad for your skin or does she just think it makes it look too matte/flat? I am not too bothered about light popping off my skin, as it would be more like lighting up the oiliness in my case, but does she also think it encourages more oil production?

Bo I think the time of year is not helping with my skin issues, I'm definitely more sallow and unhealthy/grubby looking at this time of year. I don't tan in summer (would if I sunbathed but even pre this thread I was never really into that) but definitely have a healthier colour. Unfortunately I'm also oilier in summer so still have the open pores and SF issues.

jdster my skin is feeling lovely tonight after using the hydro boost water gel (what a mouthful) I guess I must have stopped using it because my face hasnt been that dry plus I'd forgottena about it, it's practically creaking tonight so I'm thankful for it.

user I’ve seen Dr Sam discussing makeup and it’s more to do with them being comedogenic. So that leads me to think, the good work I’m doing with skincare, am I counteracting that with comedogenic makeup and actually facilitating the development of SFs . I know there’s only certain foundations she recommends (which I don’t have). I do have ELDW which I presume she loathes, despite her being too professional to name and shame in her video on long lasting foundations.

Bo is there a bha wash you could recommend for those hormonal times? And how long would you use it for, a week maybe?

I wear tinted moisturiser. I've noticed it's sometimes going on a bit patchy. Is this likely because I don't use a primer? Do others who use a tinted moisturiser use a primer? It seems to be on days when I moisturise a few hours before application, like today. Could I just put a put more moisturiser on pre-application on these days? I am very minimal when it comes to make up and have always avoided a primer. Can someone please tell me of the benefits of them?

TIA

I've been thinking about it, why I'm not a big fan of powder personally, and it's because it dehydrates me massively, it will reveal fine lines in places that are otherwise never visible, or there for that matter, and just makes me look dull and aged. I'm thinking that's the issue with powders, increased dehydration that leads to more oil production in compensation, oil brings out more powder to battle that, then the cycle revs up again. I'm actually quite curious on a derm's verdict on all those pore filling primers, that also somewhat feels skincare counter as -I theorise- you're physically plugging up the pores and therefore inhibiting its natural cycle.

I had a look at ELDW on CosDNA only one potential comedogenic ingredient, but I think a derm's rejection of it probably has more to do with the high powder content in a full coverage foundation as well as it being designed not to budge (hence needing to be more 'aggressive' with cleansing).

I'm still trying to figure out what's so different about the Armani powder, by the INCI it looks pretty standard, though I can't find an INCI for the loose powder which is newer, so maybe that one is somehow magical.

mint, the Cicabio has several silicones in it, including the cyclo... which I know you don't get on with well. Let me think on a BHA wash for a bit, most are quite stripping and best suited to oily skin.