OP, I could have written that. Before children, I lived in good jeans, high heels and a fitted black v-neck t-shirt or jumper and I looked good. I'm coming off mat leave a lot fatter than I ever thought it was possible for me to get and I most definitely do not want to look like a middle aged arty academic (no offence to anyone who does but it's not for me). There is a definite look as well:
- short boxy linen jackets with big buttons
-frizzy hair showing grey
-loose linen trousers with ‘comfy’ shoes
-mustard yellow with navy blue seems popular
-handcrafted jewellery, usually one big statement necklace
-no make up apart from lipstick for meetings
-lots of layers under a bulky cardigan and scarf.
Everyone who dresses like this is also quite short. I'm not sure why.
More common in fine art, textiles etc. The design and fashion people at the moment tend to wear flat brown brogues, loose pleat -front black trousers tapered at the ankle and white shirt, probably from Cos or a plain white t-shirt. They never wear colours or patterns.
The art men wear jeans and good quality shirts with good quality shoes, the design men wear slim fit trousers or black jeans with a black v-neck.
There are lots of professors and deans dress like this at our place so I don't think it's a barrier to promotion.
I think if you're public speaking / lecturing then you need to look streamlined and one colour as too many accessories, colours and patterns are faffy and distracting to look at. I’d avoid scarves and go for a clean silhouette.
My strategy is this:
-I don't have much choice in clothing until I have lost weight (trousers just look too hideous with section overhang and fanny fat, I'm an 18/20) so I'm sticking to black tunics or short empire line dress over black leggings, this is the only shape I can get away with atm. There's an art to getting this right so it looks chic and not like you've just walked out of soft play. Not too flared, not too long or it looks frumpy, skims in the right places, good quality jersey. My best shape one is H&M, I bought 2 as I know it won’t last that well and picked up 2 more bnwt on ebay for 99p each.
-heeled boots, not clumpy though, western boots, heeled bikers etc.
-good hair, no frizz even if curly that day and no grey showing
-when I tie my hair back, I will do it in front of a mirror and use grips
-good make-up which looks groomed, got a new charlotte tilbury palette for this, lots of black eyeliner, mascara, nude lipstick.
-selection of good expensive bags
In my 'academic chic but don’t want to look too much like an academic’ wardrobe, my go to label is DKNY for both smart and more casual. American brands tend to be good for stylish yet casual.
TK Maxx and ebay are your friends here. Set up an alert for your favourite labels in your size. Get your old stuff on ebay and use it to but new stuff, it the summer now and know you won’t get another chance until next July. I had a massive clear out on mat leave and made nearly £1000, am about to do it again.
I could write more on academic fashion crimes (different subject areas definitely have different styles) but I have a deadline today and am still writing my conclusion.
Hope no-one I work with is reading this.