I agree Frugal. Most responsible thing to do is to buy as little as possible. So wearing what you have and looking after it carefully. Next best is buying second-hand/vintage/preloved. Then I guess buying ethically produced items, then quality items produced as close to home as possible in countries where the workers have labour rights and decent pay and so on. And trying to avoid the worst offenders on the high street who outsource production to factories like those in the Rana Plaza building.
With regards to H&M, there’s an interesting overview here: projectjust.com/brand_hm/
H&M seem to genuinely be trying to adopt a responsible approach. They have made a commitment to buying more and more organic cotton until all their cotton in their clothes is organic or sustainable, they produce their Conscious collection and implement a programme that collects and recycles old clothes.
They don’t have any factories themselves, instead using suppliers and factories in mostly developing countries so they can’t absolutely guarantee good labour conditions but they do try very hard to audit suppliers regularly. They also try to support their suppliers in improving sustainability. However, they openly admit (on their website) that as they don’t own factories they can’t decide on how much workers are paid but say ‘We are committed to picking and rewarding partners who share our respect for people and the environment, and who are willing to work with us to improve their practices. We only allow our products to be manufactured by suppliers and factories that commit to our values and sign our strict code of conduct.’
They also signed the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh and are working with other companies and the government there to try and improve safety in the workplace. But according to the article I linked to above, in 2016 (i.e. 2.5yrs after the Rana Plaza disaster) none of H&M’s suppliers in Bangladesh had yet met the safety standards of the Accord.
The other issue is that their business is fast fashion, which is all about producing and shifting vast amounts of clothes as fast as possible to give us wardrobes full of cheap clothes...most of which end up in landfill or being sold to Africa, where huge quantities of imported discarded European garments have killed off any sort of local clothing industry. H&M have also been criticized in the past for not paying corporate taxes in countries where their clothes are produced (this situation has probably changed now). So I don’t really believe that shopping at H&M is ethical. And that is a massive bummer as Cos is definitely my favourite high street store and I am really struggling not to shop there.