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Tretinoin, AHA (Glycolic), Niacinamide, Vitamin C - how do you layer?

47 replies

CoolToned · 26/03/2016 21:20

For those who are using these (or some) how do you do it?

OP posts:
scandichick · 28/03/2016 14:09

Thanks! Might be too chicken for internet pharmacies too Grin

I thought Cerave only did cleansers, most check this out!

SquareDolphin · 28/03/2016 14:38

shereebobbins bulkactives is a good supplier IMHO (and I've been DIY-in skincare for over 7 years!). The owner is really helpful. www.bulkactives.com

For hyaluronic acid the cheapest good quality I've found (I only use high molecular weight) is an American supplier called pure bulk. purebulk.com/hyaluronic-acid-vegan-powder-wheat-free/

Mazidla mazidla.com/home.html is also good, but unless you have polish (I dont ) you'll need to use a translator. Excellent supplier of polyhydroxies and cheapest pre blended ceramides I've come across too.

SquareDolphin · 28/03/2016 14:46

Sorry to go off topic, got a bit over excited to see a fellow DIYer Blush

My sequencing is generally:

Am: vitamin c
Pm: tretinoin

I seem to have zero additional benefit from niacinamide (to be fair I add extra skin brighteners in my vit c) so don't use it. Glycolic masks every once in a while before tretinoin at night but not every day. I've previously used lactobionic+salicylic (homemade neo strata type formulation) before tretinoin but now on 0.1% so got to be careful not to overdo it.

shereebobbins · 28/03/2016 14:55

Thanks for that Square, How lucky am I that my next door neighbour is Polish.
Can I ask why you only use high molecular weight HA? I've been using low weight.
I am a bit of a novice compared to you.
My understanding is that the low weight penetrates the skin better than the others but the effects wear off quicker.
Maybe I should make a serum including different weights.
Thanks for the links, going to check those out along with the superdrug serum.
Wolpertinger, of the limited products I have tried from Paulas Choice, I have loved them.

CorkyBark · 28/03/2016 21:15

Not a DIYer but I am a Pharmacy Geoff tret customer. Here's what I do:

AM
Cerave hydrating cleanser
PC 2% BHA (not every day)
PC serum
Cerave PM moisturiser (only if I feel a bit dry from the tret)
PC SPF30

PM
Bioderma foaming cleanser
Tret (.1%)
PC serum again
Cerave PM moisturiser

I'm only four or five weeks in but the peeling is much less now. At first it wasn't pleasant and I looked sunburnt most nights! Layering under serum and moisturiser may be slowing the effects of the tret, I don't know, but my skin's looking good for it.

Wellhellothere1 · 28/03/2016 22:51

Pharmacy Geoff, I take it all back. I noticed some peeling tonight after 4 or 5 nights consecutive use of tretinoin 0.05%. And yes mint it has a batch number so I'm sure it's fine.
I layer as follows but not sure if I'm doing it right-
PM
Cleanser- Cetaphil or no 7 cleanser for normal/dry skin
Toner-nip and fab salicylic acid pads
Tretinoin 0.05%
Hylamide LM hyaluronic acid serum
Cerave PM moisturiser

I don't currently use vit C but thinking of starting. I'll search for some recommendations elsewhere so I don't de rail this thread Smile

CoolToned · 29/03/2016 21:52

Have you tried the Sunday Riley Good Genes? I saw it yesterday and it's very expensive!

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shereebobbins · 30/03/2016 01:28

I haven't tried it and I don't think the ingredients justify the price.
There are much cheaper exfoliants that are at a better ph in my opinion.
There's a review site called beautypedia. It was run by Paula Begoun of Paulas Choice, though I believe it's run by staff now.
Some people think it's biased towards her products. I think it's a really good starting point.

shereebobbins · 30/03/2016 01:35

Do you already use an exfoliant Cooltoned?
I could recommend a bargainous one if you like.

CoolToned · 30/03/2016 01:49

sheree - trying to choose between glycolic and lactic and please oh please recommend a bargainous one!

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shereebobbins · 30/03/2016 02:08

I've never used lactic acid, it's supposed to be gentler.
This ones a glycolic.
www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B000052YM7/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new
It's at the right ph, I just love it, and seeing as I can only use it once a weekit's gonna outlive me.

CoolToned · 30/03/2016 02:10

Thank you sheree! WIll look into this :)

OP posts:
shereebobbins · 30/03/2016 02:28

An important afterthought..Make sure you use sunscreen everyday, especially if you use any exfoliants.
Look into the Japanese ones.

Wolpertinger · 30/03/2016 08:47

Nothing in Sunday Riley justifies the price.

Just have a look at the ingredients and think 'Really? Can I not do that with highstreet products for less than half the price?'

Fatrascals · 30/03/2016 09:00

This reply has been deleted

Withdrawn at request of author

Fatrascals · 30/03/2016 09:04

This reply has been deleted

Withdrawn at request of author

SquareDolphin · 30/03/2016 16:32

sheree I use high molecular weight to double as a gel/thickener. Low is like water, 0.5% high is gel.

SquareDolphin · 30/03/2016 17:04

Sunday Riley Good Genes random thoughts:

Key ingredients are just AHA and licorice (whitening anti-inflammatory) in gel-cream base. Nice! The additional ingredients look a bit magical but the plant extract stuff is more liability than anything else...nothing proven to work, potential irritants...silicones in there too, I see.

Similar actives in a liquid/toner Alpha-H Liquid Gold (glycolic, rather than lactic) for a small fraction of the price. Also nice product.

Lactic is not really soooo much gentler than glycolic. Maybe half, so effective from 10% rather than 5%...it's a larger molecule than glycolic so can feel more stingy. It's bit better at brightening, and I also find it more moisturizing.

I used to make a similar formulation myself...as a hand and leg cream (when you DIY everything is so cheap you can use fabulous actives all the time). If we assume decent activity levels of 10% lactic acid and 3% licorice extract in a nice base with some good general nutrients and oils then you can make a litre (1000ml) for less than 50 quid. I'm not talking about industrial costs either, and I'm being very generous on the pricing. You should get a positive effect very rapidly...because that's what lactic acid is good at.

Good Genes at 85 pounds for 30ml bottle? Hmm

shereebobbins · 31/03/2016 22:08

Square, What are your thoughts on sea kelp bioferment as a base for serums over something like Aloe gel? Or maybe something else?
Would using HMW hyaluronic stay as a gel if I added niacinamide NAG and licorice? Appreciate your thoughts.

CoolToned · 25/09/2016 20:51

Bumping up :)

OP posts:
CoconutAmericano · 25/09/2016 21:15

My routine is:

Am..
Miscellar water (garnier or bioderma)
Vit c serum (timeless c+e+ferulic acid)
Biore factor 50 sun screen

Pm..
Ultra bland as my first cleanse
Innisfree clay face cleanser as my second
Time revolution first treatment essence
Galactomyces essence for the niacinamide
Gokujyun hyaluronic acid essence
Retin A mixed with la roche posay effeclar duo plus
Mizon face pack

This is mon to fri.

Weekends i leave off the retinol and one day i will use bha ( paulas choice) and the other day i will use aha (bravura london)

None of this is set and stone. Sometimes i mix things up and i throw the odd gel mask on too for extra hydration.

riledandharrassed · 13/01/2018 23:31

How are you getting on with this stuff? Great read!

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