Skiing in Austria

[winterrabbit]

Can anyone recommend good resorts for families? We have a 13 year old and 11 year old who are good skiers so will want intermediate slopes and fun things to do plus a 3 year old who may not ski that much so it would be nice to have a nice village/shops/swimming pool etc. Want to be as close to the slopes as possible, ideally ski in ski out but there doesn't seem to be many like that in Austria. TIA!

Is there any particular reason why you have chosen Austria? I've been to pretty much every major ski resort in Austria and none of them seem to offer what you describe. For what you want France is possibly a better choice. However if you want you 3 year old to learn to ski I'd definitely pick Austria as they have great ski schools that do sometimes start them from as young as 3. It's where both mine have learned to ski. However although I've done Austria probably at least 25 times my favourite places to ski (well snowboard) are in France and Switzerland, Chamonix, Andermatt, Verbier etc.

Also need a definition of good skiers, to me that means they ski mainly off piste and in powder. But everyone has their own interpretation of good.

There are areas of Austria that would suit your needs if you have a car and willing to drive to get around.

I think Lech (specifically Oberlech) would fit the bill. It's brilliant.

I've never been able to afford ski in ski out places in Austria. Or rather refuse to pay that much

Yes Lech is good, also I don't think it's too far from St Anton for the older ones if they want a challenge.

Not what you're asking, but if you'd like an experienced holiday nanny for your 3 year old who can travel with you and keep him busy and happy during your break, please let me know!

Sorry excuse my dumb question assume you aren't asking for this year, winter 2022 in Austria are you? I think it's off the cards for the next month or so at least when I read the news

@winterrabbit

There are not many ski-in/ski-out chalets in Austria because - a) chalet holidays in general are not as popular and there are few British travel companies offering this type of holiday (compared with France for example); b) most Austrian resorts are working villages, not purpose-built concrete resorts and c) the prime locations next to ski lifts (and often in the centre of the village) are owned by big family-run hotels.

That said, it is possible to find places if you know where to look.
For example, Saalbach-Hinterglemm has numerous hotels that are no more than 5 minutes walk from the lifts (and some that are ski-in/out). These hotels also tend to have swimming pools and childcare facilities, and are of course in the centre of the village.

An alternative that you might like is an Austrian "Kinderhotel" - family-run hotels that are focussed on families with children. These have pools, playrooms, nannies, are close to the slopes or have a minibus/tractor "train" that takes the kids to ski school etc. Some are next to (or part of) working farms and the staff take the kids over to see the animals, ride ponies, pet the rabbits and goats etc.

A good starting point is to look at the tourist office websites for some resorts - Saalbach, Maria Alm, Mayrhofen, Solden, Flachau, Westendorf - there are literally dozens of places.

"Lech (specifically Oberlech) would fit the bill. It's brilliant."

It is also probably the most expensive resort in the whole of Austria (along with its neighbour Zurs) where you'll rub shoulders with royalty, film stars, millionaire industrialists and shady men whose sudden wealth comes from dubious sources :-)

Thanks all, very helpful. NoKnit, I would LOVE to be going to France and I have a provisional booking which I will prob need to cancel due to the travel ban and need for a COVID pass. I am looking at Austria as it's the only possible country we can go to with DS1, 13, who is unvaccinated, as it has the "Ninja Pass" which allows him to test whilst out there as an alternative to vaccination.

I've taken a look and there seem to be loads of pretty villages in Austria (Mayrhofen in particular seemed to tick all the boxes) but it's hard to distinguish between them

@NoKnit

Austria is currently open for tourists - also from the UK.

The adults need to have 2x vax PLUS a booster PLUS a PCR test taken less than 48 hours before arrival.

The OP's 11 year old and 3 year old don't need anything in the way of vaccinations or tests.

The 13 year old can get a Holiday Ninja Pass - the pre-travel PCR test counts as the first of 3 tests that need to be taken during the skiing week. These can be taken at the local pharmacy - they take 5 minutes and you can just walk in and ask for the tests, although they do charge €25 for an antigen test and €35 for a PCR. There is a whole thread on this > www.mumsnet.com/Talk/skiing/4420475-Austria-skiing

@NoKnit

Is there any particular reason why you have chosen Austria? I've been to pretty much every major ski resort in Austria and none of them seem to offer what you describe. For what you want France is possibly a better choice. However if you want you 3 year old to learn to ski I'd definitely pick Austria as they have great ski schools that do sometimes start them from as young as 3. It's where both mine have learned to ski. However although I've done Austria probably at least 25 times my favourite places to ski (well snowboard) are in France and Switzerland, Chamonix, Andermatt, Verbier etc.

Also need a definition of good skiers, to me that means they ski mainly off piste and in powder. But everyone has their own interpretation of good.

There are areas of Austria that would suit your needs if you have a car and willing to drive to get around.

NoKnit, do you think the skiing experience is significantly worse in Austria than in France? We always go to Belle Plagne so I've had to get my head around going to Austria but thought it might be nice for a change. It's a LOT of money though to feel half -hearted about though. Wondering if we should push back until Easter.

@HolidayNanny

Not what you're asking, but if you'd like an experienced holiday nanny for your 3 year old who can travel with you and keep him busy and happy during your break, please let me know!

Thanks HolidayNanny! Will keep that in mind! He's a bit shy so we don't tend to use childcare on holiday even though that means DH and I won't be able to ski together :(

We had a few nice holidays in Stubai/Neustift. However we took our car...
There is a hotel at the bottom of the gondola up to the glacier but it is pricy.
Our youngest was in the Ski school from 4yo (the youngest they took) but the attached nursery took younger (for 4yos there was an option of mixing ski school with the nursery but we decided she would be happier with her sister in the ski school.)
Opting for the village there was b&by, self catering apartments etc. But then reliant on the bus if you didn't have a car. Which was packed!
(We were driving from Germany, not the UK. And hired a car one year).

@winterrabbit

The skiing in Mayrhofen is OK, but has one huge downside. There are no runs directly back to the resort (except one icy black just outside the town) and you have to download on a busy gondola at the end of the day.

If you liked the look of Mayrhofen, then the Ski Circus (Saalbach - Hinterglemm) is similar but has the lifts and home runs in the centres of the two linked villages. The ski area is also far bigger and is an intermediate's paradise.

We go to Serfaus in the Tirol every year (well at least we did up until Covid - but we were able to return last month for a week). I would say it fits all your boxes. It's not ski in ski out for all the reasons @havanananana said, however there is a really well set up ski boots/ski storage by the main gondola so you don't have to carr your ski stuff long distances. It's a small, picturesque, working village and everywhere is 15-20 mins max walking distance of the main lifts but there is also a free underground train ride to the cable car. We normally get the train (5 mins max) in the morning and then wander back via some apres ski in the evenings. I can't say I've ever wished for ski in ski out accommodation (but then I've never experienced it either)

It's exceptionally well set up for kids both up the mountain and in the village. There's definitely accommodation with swimming pools in the village - including two kinderhotels - although we prefer to stay in pensions.

Skiing is brilliant for intermediates, it's mainly very extensive mainly red runs with some blues and blacks, but the main run down the mountain to to village is a blue. We've been going there for 5 years now.

The downsides are (which are pretty big positives in my book, but they might matter to some people) that there are no package holiday operators that go there, so you have to organise everything yourself and there are very few other British people staying there.

[quote Havanananana]@winterrabbit

The skiing in Mayrhofen is OK, but has one huge downside. There are no runs directly back to the resort (except one icy black just outside the town) and you have to download on a busy gondola at the end of the day.

If you liked the look of Mayrhofen, then the Ski Circus (Saalbach - Hinterglemm) is similar but has the lifts and home runs in the centres of the two linked villages. The ski area is also far bigger and is an intermediate's paradise.[/quote]
Thanks Havana, that's hugely helpful! What would be your top recommendation for Austria? Do you like it with kids? Is the food ok? I've been a couple of times as a teenager but can't remember much.

@winterrabbit

In case you haven't guessed, Saalbach-Hinterglemm is my favourite resort for what you are describing. There are affordable hotels close to the lifts e.g. Crystal go to the Saalbacher Hof Hotel, the Hotel Panther'a or the all-inclusive Alpin Resort Sport and Spa. All three are in the village centre, have pools and other facilities. The kids' ski school meets in the centre too.

Or you can easily DIY - fly to Salzburg, use the Holiday Shuttle VIP taxi transfer to your door, choose a hotel, b&b, or self-catering apartment.

If you are 5-10 minutes from the centre, you can rent lockers at the lift stations or rental shops and leave your skis and boots there at night so you're not carrying them backwards and forwards.

There are numerous restaurants on the mountains. Food is whatever you want - from sausage and chips (which seems to be the staple diet of all 10-15 year olds on the mountain) to fine dining. The Alpin Resort, although all-inclusive, has an excellent reputation for the standard of meals and drinks.

Without wishing to get into an argument with @NoKnit I really don't recognise their description of Austria. In my experience, Austrian resorts are better organised, far more guest-friendly (and child-friendly) and better value for money than France. I agree that the off-piste and powder skiing is probably better in the high French and Swiss resorts, but that's not what you asked for in your first post - you asked for good intermediate slopes, of which the entire Ski Circus has well over 200 km.

Another one here for Lech and Zurs.
You can now also ski across from Zurs to St Anton.The ski schools there are also great.
I'm heading out there in 2 weeks time. Can't wait

Looking now but super expensive! Any recommendations where to stay? Might need to be just an apartment and forego the pool!

Love Zell am See; smart lakeside town.

@winterrabbit

Looking now but super expensive! Any recommendations where to stay? Might need to be just an apartment and forego the pool!

This is where we stay in Zurs. It's individual chalets It's best to email them, and tell them how many people are in your party, and what your requirements are, and they will then send you the price. Also has a lovely pool area and spa. Hope this helps

@winterrabbit

Looking now but super expensive! Any recommendations where to stay? Might need to be just an apartment and forego the pool!

Oops forgot to add the link

www.bentleyshouse.at/index_E.php

I’d second saalbach, we stay in some private apartments in viehhofen but you’d want saalbach or hinterglemm. For convenience I’d look at a package with crystal. Some lovely learner areas and fantastic restaurants.
It’s very different to French skiing holidays but equally fab. And the ski area is on a par with the big French resorts so you can always find good runs!

@Havanananana (gotta love that name BTW) no not at all. What you say about Austria is exactly what I think and why I have only ever taken my kids there. The safety and family friendliness is second to none.

However I got the impression from the OP that she wanted a ski resort that also had a bit more, like playground, shops or places to take the 3 year old too and I'm trying hard to think but I find it difficult to find a place like that in an Austrian ski resort. In the resorts in Austria if you don't ski then there isn't always a lot to do. If you see what I mean?

As for skiing in Austria being worse in France - no I never said that. It is just different and as Havanananana presumed more off piste and powder plus just generally longer slopes and runs. I prefer it due to the way we (the husband and I we that is) snowboard despite the fact that we (the family we) pretty much only ski in Austria at the moment. Skiing in Austria is not bad, I never said that. But in France in a random ski resort you do quite often meet the odd person who is local ish that skis a lot and has just come to ski for the day. In Austria I've mostly only ever encountered tourists on the slopes. But that could be just me.

As for the ski in/out thing my husband did suggest Obertauern and if I remember rightly (last time I was there was at least 10 years ago before I had kids) there are a few hotels, including a Familienhotel at the bottom of the Edelweissbahn. Perhaps you could look? Also pretty nice skiing as reasonably high up. Although no shops of facilities for a 3 year old.

Also with regards to ski tourism in Austria, currently it is allowed however more and more places on the slopes are closing. I couldn't find any links to articles in English (because I'm lazy and just read the German ones) but I do get the feeling that Austria might go into a 5th Lockdown and might close for tourists they just don't want another fiasco like Ischgl in March 2020. Although what it will do for the economy I don't know

m.faz.net/aktuell/wirtschaft/oesterreich-skigebiete-werden-zu-corona-hotspots-17719089.amp.html

You just can't compare the infrastructure of France and Austria, one of the biggest countries in Europe (I think) versus a country with a population of 8 million (I think). Its like apples and pears.