Oiling Ash worktops - cant remember what I did before

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We got a kitchen fitted maybe around 12 years ago, might be more.

We got black ash or dark ash or burnt ash worktops, lovely deep brown, almost black. Beautiful

I was enthusiastically motivated to oil it the first year, and obviously planned to do this thereafter as a regular thing

This has not happened!!

They have been sorely neglected and Ive got to get on and do this now fairly urgently

When I did it, I sanded it down and I know I cleaned it with either turps or white spirit (or are those 2 things the same?) or some thing like that, does that sound right?

I also know that I put one layer of oil on and I have a feeling I was meant to either sand it again between coats or do something in between coats and one bit of the worktop I didnt do it, and it got tacky and sticky. Im wondering if Im getting confused and it was a part of the work top that I didnt rub down with the turps and then the oil laid on top of the other oil made it a bit tacky?

I have in the cupboard teak oil and danish oil. I cant remember what I used, any advice on whats best? I have a feeling my OH used some teak oil on some garden furniture which was already varnished (wood arms on a Lafuma chair) and this resulted in the varnish lifting off and now the arms look dreadful, so Im wary of using the wrong oil on top of a surfaced which will cause problems.

Theres a fair amount of advice online which gives the general gist but not exactly what I thought I did in my head and some of the advice differs.

I'm currently oiling oak doors in our house with osmo clear oil. Mine don't need sanding back though as new. I'm afraid I don't know the answers you need, but there is an osmo specific site on facebook where you could ask.

Sorry, but a hopeful bump for you.

When I've oiled kitchen surfaces, because of the potential contact with foods, I've used Tung Oil, like this one. It takes a while to dry, but creates a hard resinous surface that is highly resistant to water, heat, alcohol and food acids.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Liberon-TO1L-Pure-Tung-Oil/dp/B000TAULGO/ref=ast_sto_dp_puis

You only need to sand back between coats if the wood feels rough after the oil has soaked through

Thanks everyone. I would have definitely used either of the oils I have in the cupboard I think so Im keen to use up what we have if possible if anyone knows anything about danish oil vs teak oil that would be helpful although if I need to get a different oil I will do so, but Im sure I used either of those. I do also need to double check that they are definitely ash as more reading Im doing now appears to confirm that different woods need different things! Of course they do!

Check your oil is still good first - open the tin! Then Google both products and see if they are suitable for your worktop. Instructions should be on the tin in terms of the number of coats, rubbing down etc.

What is the purpose of the turps? I didn't do that to mine and have not heard of it.

I have oak, and iroko. For both you sand down (if needed), hoover and wipe clean with damp cloth to remove sawdust, let dry, put on oil with brush, wait 30 mins then rub down with lint free cloth, then leave overnight. In the morning feel them with your hand - if they are rough sand any rough patches very lightly and oil again, rubbing down 30 mins later. If they are not rough you might not even need a second coat. If the finish looks even all over, and water beads on the surface you are probably okay with just the one coat.

I dont know if it was turps, white spirit perhaps, meths perhaps (are these all the same thing?)

I think its to clean off the residue of the previous oil perhaps?

It's common to rub down wood with white spirit after sanding in order to remove sawdust fully without wetting the wood. It should not affect how the oil then dries (the tackiness is the oil not drying fully, should go away eventually).

Best way to avoid it is to put really really thin coats. I tend to apply thinly, then rub down with a cloth almost immediately to remove the excess. I do this a number of times until it's fully saturated.

Teak oil is usually for outdoor furniture. Danish oil if it's OK for food contact would work, but I wouldn't use 12 year old one if it had been opened, it's unlikely to still be good.

Interestingly they both have dates on the top of the tin, both 2018, one feb and the other april

Im not sure thats the date I bought them so is that an expiry date?

I didnt know these things went off or bad.

I dont want a shiny finish in case that affects the advice, the worktops are completely matt

Ive just checked and they were Thermo Ash from Wickes.

And I was right it was 12 years ago we got the kitchen

Im back to this thread, we have bought our oil, I chucked out the old oil. After lots of reading we decided the Danish oil was going to be easier for us, i was worried about lots of reading that the Osmo can leave white marks if you dont do it properly (and we might not do it properly) and our worktops are very very dark so I dont want to risk it

So we have our oil, I have my blue paper to wipe off excess. I was going to apply it using thin old tea towels, not towelling tea towels, cotton, like linen fabric. I wondered if this is considered 'lint free'?

Any ideas or should we just buy lint free cloths, trying not to purchase things that are uncessary.

I find old sheets work well.

I dont have any sheets unfortunately, trying to declutter means we throw out things that havent been used, but I did keep a lot of old tea towels so was hoping to use these for old jobs.

Woven fabric will be fine. Tea towels, not kitchen towels, if you see what I mean!

I always cut up cotton shirts to use for this sort of thing, they are definitely lint-free if 100% cotton. Also cotton and or linen tea towels, the ones with pictures on or the ones with a thin striped border marked "glass cloth". These are lint free by definition and absorb well. Good luck!

Yes Ive got quite a few of those white tea towels, like linen, with the red border round the edge that you see or saw in old fashioned pubs, so I was hoping to use those rather than buy something new. We dont have any old shirts or clothes or sheets or anything.

Perfect!

Im a bit anxious about how Im going to manage the cats, one of them jumps on the worktop even though he knows he isnt allowed and overnight I dont know how to monitor him

In fact I think in reality both of them do it when my back is turned

Can you shut them out for a night, or into the upstairs for a night?

Or alternatively do it first thing in the morning and stop them using the room for the day?

Or… use bed sheets hanging from the upper cupboards to make a tent over the work surface?