Painting fail

[Nik2879]

Help please. Painting a skirting board used waterbased undercoat. Started painting with dulux trade satinwood and after painting 2 skirting boards then realised Id picked up the wrong paint and it wasnt waterbased. Should of known straight away because of the smell but Ive never used the trade one before so didn't put 2 and 2 together.
what do I need to do now with the part Ive already painted sand back and undercoat again? Ive now got the correct water based satinwood dulux trade.
I want to always use water-based now because I dont want the woodwork going yellow.
Thanks for any help.

Just type it into Google and got this AI response

Yes, you will need to sand down the area painted with the oil-based paint and reapply an undercoat before using the water-based satinwood. The oil-based paint will create a barrier that prevents the water-based paint from adhering properly, leading to potential issues with finish and durability.

Here's a more detailed breakdown:

1. Preparation is Key:

Sand: Thoroughly sand the areas painted with the oil-based paint to create a roughened surface for the new paint to grip onto.

Clean:
Remove any sanding dust with a damp cloth or tack cloth to ensure a clean surface.

Prime:
Apply a suitable undercoat, especially if you are using water-based paint over oil-based paint. This will help with adhesion.

1. Why is this necessary?

Adhesion Issues: Oil-based and water-based paints have different chemical properties. The water-based paint may not adhere properly to the oil-based paint, potentially causing it to peel, crack, or flake off over time.

Smooth Finish:
Sanding and priming ensures a smooth, even surface for the final coat, resulting in a professional-looking finish.

1. Selecting the Right Undercoat:

Primer: Choose a primer designed for use with both oil-based and water-based paints. Some recommend a shellac-based primer for stain blocking if needed.

Water-based Primer:
If you're painting onto a surface previously coated with oil-based paint, ensure the primer is suitable for that purpose, according to the Screwfix Community Forum.

1. Applying the Topcoat (Dulux Trade Water-Based Satinwood):

Two Coats: Apply two coats of the Dulux Trade Water-Based Satinwood, allowing for proper drying time between coats as per the manufacturer's instructions (typically 16-24 hours).

I know this works because I've done it. Lightly sand the oil-based paint and apply a coat of chalk paint. Then 2 coats of water-based paint - job done.

Fuming I was so close to the end of the job now added loads more work onto it again.

I'd be tempted to leave it and do the recoat when it starts to go a bit yellow.

Just finish the job. Water based undercoat should be fine with solvent top coat. The other way around can be a problem.

Yeah I say just leave it. I always thought yellowing of oil based paints was partly down to how much sunlight is hitting them. Skirting boards- normally not much.

If you do intend to sand the oil based, I’d leave it a little while- it’ll take a few weeks ime before it’s properly cured. Don’t try sanding the day after you’ve painted it..

Most if the replies hete are completely wrong! It's fine to use water based primer and/or undercoat beneath oil based paints!

Thanks for the advice I have carried on the rest of the room with the correct water based satinwood dulux trade paint. I just dont know if I should redo the bits I did with the oil based I just dont want them to go yellow and theres no carpet down at the moment so know it’s probably best to do it now.
@Lonelycrab thanks for saying that because thats what I was thinking to sand it down tomorrow. Needed the job finished this weekend so we are ready for the carpet.

@Nik2879 I would give it a light sand, wipe clean. Use zinsser bin paint and then coat with your water based satinwood

I disagree with this.

BIN is not some magical primer that you just slap on anywhere and everywhere. It’s a specific stain blocking primer- it’s designed for difficult to adhere surfaces and stains, often from water damage or ingress. It’s to give you an impermeable barrier. This is not needed here. it’s really expensive too.

There are better and cheaper products for basic undercoating and priming. BIN on its own has poor opacity and is pretty thin, but it does what it’s supposed to do very well.
It’s not designed for basic undercoating of priming.

@Nik2879 I wouldn’t touch the oil based if you’re having carpets fitted in a few days. Just leave it now. It won’t yellow for 5/10 years+ and you now need to let things dry/cure before the fitters bash it about. if it’s a modern formula it won’t yellow overnight. You can lightly sand and apply something water based when that time arrives.

@SingleAHF not a single poster before you suggested that.

@Lonelycrab thanks so much so glad I asked will leave it then especially if you think it wont go yellow for a long time we would probably be redoing by then anyway. I would of made it all worse tomorrow if I hadnt asked on here lol.

Zinsser bin is a shellac based primer, it is good at blocking knots and stains but also goes over glossy surfaces I've used it on oil based gloss paint (went a horrible yellow in no time at all)and skirting when I couldn't be bothered to sand back to bare wood, I gave it all a light sand painted over with zinsser bin and then painted over with water based satin wood paint and it's been fine ever since, it's been fine for years, no peeling or issues
If she's only got a bit of skirting to go over, a couple of quid in sand paper, maybe £10-£15 in zinsser BIN as she won't need a load of it. I don't think that's super expensive

And how do you think that’ll cope with the carpet fitters turning up in a day or two.

Uncured oil based paint
Sanded the next day and painted with bin
And then a water based satin on top trying to dry….

I certainly wouldn’t want to be fitting carpets in that scenario. You’ll end up with an un-cured mess of paint around the edges of your carpets. And mashed up skirting boards.

eta: you could have skipped the BIN and used a cheap acrylic primer ie Leyland and achieved the same results btw. People tend to use and see BIN likes its basic primer/undercoat. It’s really not necessary.

Youre also not appreciating the time you should leave paint to dry before carpet fitters turn up!

Lol you seem very annoyed at my suggestion. I'm literally just saying what I would do. I actually annoyingly made a similar mistake to the op by ordering the wrong satin wood paint about a year ago to paint some wood that was right next to some other wood that I had painted with the water based. I couldn't be arsed to do anything with it after I realised what I'd done and to be honest I could do with sorting it and getting it painted with the water based satin wood as I can already see which wood I've painted in oil based and what wood was painted with water based as the oil based is yellowing already. If the oil based paint isn't cured enough to handle the sanding and repainting I think I'd be tempted to delay the carpet fitting temporarily personally because I'd rather not have to paint it all again a year down the line.
If OP is happy to sit it out and see how her satinwood holds up, that's also totally fine. It might not be as obvious as in my situation because the two paints are side by side

@Juniperberry55 Im just trying to help the op, but as a professional decorator I know the importance of not getting carpet fitters in when you’ve got multiple layers of different types of paint drying/curing on your skirting boards moments before they arrive. The paint will go onto the carpet!

She has applied oil based paint in error, at this point in time, it’s best to just go with that. That’s all I’m saying.

@Lonelycrab that's fine I think everyone is trying to help the OP or we wouldn't be replying to the question

I've merely shared how I've done it in the past and had no issues to date, also my oil based paint from 1 year ago is yellowing compared to the water based and it annoys me every time I see it 😂 so I would rather wait on carpets to get the water based paint on. Op might not care as long as it doesn't go luminous yellow and she is using a different brand to the one I used so maybe it's not as bad as the one I used

I have also had professional decorators tell me oil based gloss paint doesn't yellow anymore when I painted every new door and skirting board in a house I renovated then 2 years later it was bright yellow in some places and white in others depending on how much light got to it, hence me having to repaint everything all over again with the water based. It has been lovely and bright white for a long time now

@Juniperberry55 if it worked for you then it’s all good. It’s just having had carpets fitted in freshly painted rooms the one thing they often say to me is… we don’t want to fit unless the paint has been on for around a week; the carpet fitting process is quite violent with their knee knocker things- if the paint isn’t dry properly then it can end up not so great, carpets picking up paint and skirting finishes scuffed or damaged, so it’s probably best here to just leave things be, and dry as much as possible over the coming days rather than apply multiple new layers of paint.

This is why I don’t use dulux. We wasted tons of money on their unclearly labelled “trade” products which don’t properly differentiate between OB and WB. I won’t ever buy it again.

i switched to little greene … their products are vastly better quality and properly labelled.

Not heard of that brand. Will have a look at them next time. Although I will now be double and triple checking paint labels before I buy them plus I would now know straight away if its smells its the wrong one lol.