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I really, really don't understand (cooker) electrics, so please be gentle

33 replies

KievLoverTwo · 20/06/2024 17:54

We bought this cheap ranger cooker to tide us over in a rental we're desperately trying to get out of. For context we've been through SIX. Two had problems not related to the house, four have had temperature problems*, two of which were secondhand, two of which were not. I've since learned that it's normal for hob rings to turn on and off to regulate heat on ceramic hobs, which is pretty annoying when you have a disability and just need to get things done quickly, so, questions:

https://www.argos.co.uk/product/8399469?clickPR=plp:5:7

If you have a look at the Q&A, several of them mention 53A. Idk what that means. My LL had her electrician upgrade the electrics from 13 (?) to 45 whatever after we moved in (she said she'd remove an Aga then point blank refused once she discovered the cost/having to rip floors up - so she paid for him to do it). We bought a secondhand range, I think he fitted it. I asked him if the amps (wattage? See how much this confuses me!) would be enough and he said: yeah it'll be fine, you won't use the whole thing at once very often, and the worst it'll do is trip the fuse. He mentioned 60A (w?) being difficult to install. Idk why.

a) Has he installed electrics that can't actually handle having the oven cavity (or in the case of the first, secondhand rangemaster - 3 cavitites) and all hob rings switched on at once? They're 90cm ranges cookers.

The woman we bought it off was paranoid that we'd get it home and request a refund that she showed us everything working in person. Then it sat in our garage for months until she final got the electrics changed, and the oven was so slow when we finally got it installed that it took me EIGHTEEN HOURS on Xmas Eve to pre-cook our Xmas dinner for x2 people.

b) Is it legitimately NORMAL that when you have two ceramic hob rings turned on at once (with no oven on) that one of them blinkin' turns itself off after five minutes to cool down? I usually have the middle one (the super burny one that has two settings: normal temperature, fast scorchy temperature) and the front right one turned on at once. It still does this no matter which other one I use - and only with two turned on.

This particular cooker cooked fine for a month and I don't recall any problem with it whatsoever, I was over the moon, then suddenly:

Cooking on the bottom shelf became a furnace. Now what happens is: we never know whether it's going to be fast or slow. One day you can pre-heat for 5 minutes and it still takes 40 minutes to cook some oven chips, the next day you can pre-heat it for 5 minutes and they're charred. So,

c) Could dodgy electrics be causing this?

And, finally, the superhot one in the the middle I mentioned - when things started to go wrong, I fried some bacon on that ring one day (because the grill is like a furnace, which someone mentioned in the reviews) and a bit of fat hit this middle ring after I removed it, and

d) it set on FIRE. Is that normal?

Sorry for the wall of text. I'm sick and tired of chucking away money on this house; we don't have good tradesmen around here and most of them know my LL anyway.

If the answer to the above is a resounding 'stop buying cheap crap', I really won't be offended - I would rather just know one way or the other. Because of this ongoing oven debacle we've been living off absolute crap for almost two years, and we only intend to be here another six months because we're buying a house.

"Suck it up then Kiev"

Yeah, if we weren't both displaying symptoms of malnutrition, I might be inclined to do that. My OH is also gluten intolerant, and one of my main motivators for this property was the ability to be able to easily cook good, healthy food in a big oven (big oven because of disability).

*The other three with issues: a pre-installed 50cm that came with the house; took forever to grill, electrics were 13 back then. Then the electrics were upgraded and we had to get rid of the slow, secondhand 90cm range, and we bought our old 60cm in from the garage (which was a year old at this point). Suddenly the grill took 45 minutes to cook sausages. The third was a 90cm range and I think I had similar problems to the above (especially re: hobs turning on and off). We also had a 90cm induction - the problem with that one was that the circles on the hobs were so feint that you literally couldn't see it in our kitchen - I had to hang a torch over them to see them.

Thanks for reading/helping if you got this far.

OP posts:
GPTec1 · 20/06/2024 19:22

If you had a electrical issue, your mcb would trip out under the load of the hobs being on
6mm cable will handle a domestic cooker but 10mm is normal for either a 45a or 32a mcb.
Domestic cookers do not require more.

I assume this consumer has been tested as you re a tenant and can handle a 32/45 mcb?

If so you ve a cooker problem, so i would suggest a domestic appliance engineer.

CellophaneFlower · 20/06/2024 20:09

I have a Rangemaster and at least some of my rings go off and on again. I'm not 100% sure if they do this whilst they are turned on fully, but will check tomorrow. Makes no difference how many I have on at once though, can have all ovens and rings on and everything functions as normal.

Bumblebeeinatree · 20/06/2024 20:19

You need a separate circuit for an electric cooker with a higher rate fuse in the fuse box. If you have that or doing that doesn't solve some of the problems it sounds like various parts of the cooker are faulty (may be one underlying fault), get an engineer in to look at it or bin it.

KievLoverTwo · 20/06/2024 20:43

Scampuss · 20/06/2024 19:10

It sounds like an electrics problem not a cooker problem.

With the amount you are spending, and as you're not staying there anyway, can you get a decent air fryer to use as an oven and a multi cooker for hob stuff? It will mean you won't have to bend down to the oven which might be helpful.

(Becky Excell has a new GF air fryer book out...)

I have been resisting air fryers for a long time as they frankly look poxy to wash up. Somewhat lazy of me, I guess I just felt I didn't want yet another tedious chore when we spend all our time here firefighting problems with this house - which are - not really an exaggeration - daily - and often come in fives.

BUT. You raise a very good point at a very good point in time. Now that there's a completion month in sight, maybe it would be better for our mental health just to shove our old 60cm back in - which at least has an oven that doesn't burn everything - and get an air fryer (or even two??).

I'm familiar with the Cult of Becky :)

OP posts:
KievLoverTwo · 20/06/2024 20:46

CellophaneFlower · 20/06/2024 20:09

I have a Rangemaster and at least some of my rings go off and on again. I'm not 100% sure if they do this whilst they are turned on fully, but will check tomorrow. Makes no difference how many I have on at once though, can have all ovens and rings on and everything functions as normal.

I would appreciate that, thank you.

OP posts:
KievLoverTwo · 20/06/2024 20:48

Scampuss · 20/06/2024 19:10

It sounds like an electrics problem not a cooker problem.

With the amount you are spending, and as you're not staying there anyway, can you get a decent air fryer to use as an oven and a multi cooker for hob stuff? It will mean you won't have to bend down to the oven which might be helpful.

(Becky Excell has a new GF air fryer book out...)

Oh, and the kitchen is so crap that we have all our appliances on extension leads and I constantly have to move heavy electricals (heavy to me) around - so that's been an issue as well.

We're giving this some hard thought as possibly the best solution though, thanks.

OP posts:
Van34 · 21/06/2024 13:34

Both rings combined is 4kW. This is roughly equivalent to 20A. The 45A they are suggesting is likely the breaker, but considering it took an hour to convert to 45A I would suggest they only changed the breaker and didn't install a new cable. Now if the cable is too small then the size of the breaker doesn't matter, there is a limit to how much current (A) you can draw, so for instance, if you have 4 rings on at the same time you are drawing 34A of current, if you only have 4mm cables they are rated at 26A (depending on installation, but it gets complicated) a 6mm cable is rated to 32A and 10mm 44A. The size of the cable absolutely matters.

If you add into that the oven then you are probably trying to exceed the current capacity of the cable. Its not a fault, rather than trying to use too much at once. A general house main switch is only rated at 63A, 80A or 100A (it depends, ours is 100A yerraced houses are often 63A. Dont ask me why). This is the combined current capacity for everything at once. Electric oven, shower, boiler, TV, lights etc... you can see how it would get overloaded.

Ideally what you need is either, a new circuit for the oven/hob that is big enough. Or two separate circuits for the oven and hob (this is what we have, big cable for hob, standard cable for oven)

Diyextension · 21/06/2024 14:44

Sounds like dodgy appliances to me , if they were drawing to much power for the circuit they are on then the breaker would trip ( overload ).

my oven and hob are both on 13a plugs on the kitchen ring main , it’s the only circuit not yet rewired ( waiting for kitchen renewal). Neither have ever tripped the breaker even when both on with other appliances. Although the induction hob plug does get warm when using more than 2 rings, which is hardly ever.

Circuit is 32a.

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