Wooden Worktops - what am I doing wrong?

[PeterPipersPepper]

Wooden kitchen worktops installed by previous owner. Lots of stains etc so I sanded them down.

I then did three coats of Ronseal Antibacterial Worktop Oil. I did four coats around the sink.

Even if we place a wet cup down for a few seconds it will leave a mark - this can’t be right? Might it be the type of oil I used? It was recommended to me by someone else with wooden worktops.

On other threads people are saying they only have to re-oil every year but I have got a different mark almost every day since I sanded and re-oiled - like the example I have posted.

is there another type of product I can use that will offer more protection?

Bumping for tips. Have moved in to a wooden worktop liberally doused with black rings and need help.

Sorry, no tips from me. I could never keep ours nice and eventually replaced it with quartz. I didn’t realise how miserable the worktop made me until I had one that wasn’t a full time job to try to maintain!

Sorry for the doom and gloom but I didn’t discover any miracle cure for maintaining them in 5 years!

I use Osmo TopOil. Probably about every 6 months although mean to do it more often.

Once a year would be over optimistic. And if you have sanded all the way back down I'd be doing it daily for a week, then weekly and then monthly. Basically until the worktop tells you 'no more oil, please!'

I used to have that problem when using danish oil with my oak worktops. I now use this on my worktops and it forms a proper seal. Worktop oil. I applied it 6 months ago, according to the instructions and not a single stain so far.

The black ring marks are usually caused by putting wet tins on your wood worktops.

A hardware oil, either Oslo or Fiddes

Osmo hardwax oils are more durable and waterproof than usual worktop oils, they are worth the bit extra cost.

What is the wood? Different woods need different oils. Ie. If it’s hard wood like iroko you use Tung otherwise it blows.

To the point with the black rings. Try white vinegar. Literally soak the whole worktop in it and then let it dry off naturally. Repeat until the black is gone.

Might be better using a varnish rather than an oil.

Sand it back again, then use the work top oil. In-between each thin coat the wood will burr (grain raise), use a cabinet scraper to make smooth. Do at least 3 coats. Don't put wet tins on, they will leave black marks. White water marks can sometimes be ironed out, using a teatowel and a low heat iron, but it sounds like yours needs completely refinishing.

Wooden worktops are notoriously hard to maintain. I would just replace them with a more serviceable product.

I also prefer varnish on a worktop, but you can't use it if it has been oiled previously. Even yacht varnish will lift after a few weeks if there was ever oil underneath. I've been there.

Old house we used clear varnish, fine after 10 years. This house we've been recommended Osmo oil but only just put in.

Thank you everyone. Oh gosh I can’t face sanding it down again…! I’ll try another coat until I’ve used the tin up and then get the Osmo as recommended

Osmo Top Oil

Osmo is the thing to use. Once you’ve sanded them and used it you’ll never have to sand again. I just re-apply once a year.

Yes to the Osmo. We had ours in for three years before we moved house and we didn’t have a mark on it. Hadn’t redone it in that time either. I think it had three coats - this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002AP6YBW/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_FVAT8EVAH9GF50QCEHDY?linkCode=ml2&tag=gentbubb-21

I also would avoid putting wet cups on it - we would use tile coasters etc. Things like this. https://www.skyetiles.co.uk/

We use professional quality danish oil (Fiddes one) - never had a problem, but we use a microfibre cloth to apply rather than a brush, and try to do them every 6 months. Do 2 coats, let dry thoroughly over 24 hours. We do in sections rather than the whole lot in one go.

I'd never have them again, it's far too much work. When we replace the kitchen, we'll have Corian.

We've only ever had to redo our wooden (oak) worktops once in 10 years. We treated them with Danish oil initially. We previously had beech worktops in a rental and they were a nightmare.

Liberon hard wax oil although your best bet is to rip them out and get a hard stone, I hated wood and replaced it with quartz after 2 years. I use the Liberon hard wax oil on my oak kitchen table and it works a treat.

I used danish oil on beech and it's not perfect but nothing like that bad and I'm massively lazy and only redid it after 5 years.

I have a worktop protector that I would put anything like pans etc on but for chopping boards, things stacked for the dishwasher is copes okay.

The wood behind the sink is starting to get a little stained but I have been there for 7 years so that seems okay tbh.

That's good to know as we're planning on installing a raw edge wood worktop when we do our kitchen up.

I have asked my partner to advise (he is a joiner). He suggests the best route of action - which is the hard way - but it will solve the problem.

Sand it back to bare wood. You need Junckers Rustic Oil. The first coat to be diluted with 10% white spirit. Apply generously and leave for 20 minutes then observe the surface against the light as some areas of the wood will be more absorbent than others. Move the oil where it has pooled into areas where it has absorbed. Leave to dry for 24 hours.

Then next coat 100% oil - leave 24 hours to dry.

And ideally repeat another 6 times . It is a process but will be worth it.

We have done this at home and the worktop never marks. If it ever has a mark that doesn't immediately wipe off - such as curry or red wine that has sat on the surface - I just use a small amount of bleach and it lifts right off.

Moving forward, we add a couple of coats of oil about every 5 years. He just gives it a light sand with 180 grit sandpaper. Just allow to dry 24 hours between coats.

He has been making worktops for 40 years.

Good luck whatever you decide to do!

God this is making me feel bad. I think we had the kitchen done about 10 years ago or 8 perhaps. The year after I was all gung ho about maintaining a yearly schedule so duly sanded it down and re oiled it.

Havent done it since

Yes we do have some marks on it and I think to myself, oh I must sand it down and re do it but it never happens

I have glass worktop protectors on either side of the cooker, under the kettle/tea making area and use a chopping board etc

Its got a crack in it as well from where it had a different kettle on it at one time, they are very dark,, teak I think, from Wickes, almost black in parts. Or Ash, are they ash? I should know these things really

Yacht varnish onto bare wood. I’ve used this in the bathroom round the sink, it needs redoing every six months but mainly because DH is a splashed. and doesn’t wipe up after washing his hair, leaving puddles.

I did this with wood worktops in a previous kitchen, seemed perfectly okay. I like the look and feel of wood, especially with non wood cabinets. We currently have just a stretch of wood which is osmosed and that’s okay but it is on a not much used peninsular.