Painting over dark woodwork

[Highlandcooo]

My house is straight from the 90s and all the woodwork is dark mahogany. The previously owners have started painting over it all but they’ve just used gloss straight onto the woodwork rather than priming first, so whenever it chips or gets knocked the mahogany shows through.

We’re starting to redecorate now. What would you think is the best way to rectify this? Would applying something like Zinnser help paint stick or would the dark wood still come through as it’s sticking to the gloss not the woodwork? There’s several coats of gloss so it would be a nightmare to sand it right back!!

Isn't Frenchic meant to be good for that?

You need to remove the paint, I'd recommend - The Original Peel-It-Off Paint Stripper 10kg (5L) amzn.eu/d/0Iniiv1 Klingstrip we've used it loads of times.
Then lightly sand, prime and paint with a durable suitable paint. No point in missing a step and not doing it properly as you'll just create work for yourself down the line.

I’ve also bought a 90s mahogany palace and have spent a year rectifying this problem! When it’s been badly painted over I’m afraid we had to strip back to wood then sand and prime and 2 coats of satin wood. Where it was still the mahogany it was actually easier. Sanded it down, primer then two coats of paint and it looks great now!

Paint stripper. Then sand, prime and paint. Tis a long process and a pain in the arse but worth it in the end.

We had our hall stairs and landing done professionally and they just used two coats of Zinsser and then undercoat and top coat or two of satinwood and 7 years on, still looking ok, just a little chip here and there, but took one man nearly 2 weeks.

Yup. There's no shorting cutting this one, takes time and elbow grease to get a decent finish.

I'd get a professional assessment. Not sure the stripping is necessary. I'm amid a similar project and the Zinsser is amazing.

We've used Zinsser for the skirting boards and window sills, but we've completely stripped back the door frames as I didn't want multiple coats of paint making the doors stick. I was surprised at just how much paint we needed for top coats to obliterate the mahogany.

Proper masks, goggles, gloves,we did this in our last house,hot air gun,1930 art deco design.

No short cuts to this I'm afraid. I used Tippex to cover all the chips in the gloss over dark varnish until we had got it all stripped back; it's a long and frustrating job...

zinser all the way, just done my black beams with two coats zinser then paint . recommended
by builders

Definitely zinsser, but I'd sand it back first. The zinsser will adhere to the gloss, but won't make the gloss adhere to the wood, so will still end up chipping.

I'm currently painting over rosewood upvc window frames. They have mahogany varnished windowsills and it was quite satisfying stripping that off. I actually loved the wood underneath on the sill, so in my son's room, I've painted the frames white but will just oil the sill as it fits in with my plans for his room.

No need to undercoat after the zinsser though. 2 coats should do it, then a couple of your chosen top coat.

I’m typically a bit lazy when it comes to decorating! No stripping back or sanding for me.

Am in the process of painting the internal doors etc. My paint is from Little Greene. Two coats of their ASP (All Surface Primer) and then two coats of Intelligent Eggshell.

For woodwork, if I’m painting it in a colour (ie kitchen cabinets), then I use their Tom’s Oil as it’s really hard-wearing, doesn’t chip and is easy to wipe clean.

If I’m painting it white, then I use a water-based topcoat as it doesn’t “yellow” as quickly over time as oil-based does.