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Help with hot water pouring out of the loft overflow

5 replies

LemonChiffon · 22/12/2022 17:59

I'm hoping that someone might be able to help. Perhaps @pigletjohn?! I feel bad asking but I've seen such helpful advice from you on other threads!

I've just read a similar thread from last year where you helped someone else but I think my problem is slightly different.

As my heating switches off when it reaches temperature, after being on for a while, something (possibly the hot water cylinder in the airing cupboard?) makes a noise like a kettle boiling. Then there are some bangs, and I can feel vibrations from the radiators. And hot water comes flowing out of the loft overflow pipe.

I had a plumber round but he was no help.

I've tried: turning the pump down to two. Turning the boiler thermostat and the cylinder thermostat down, because I saw a video that said this can be caused by the water being too hot, expanding, and being forced up to the loft.

Our boiler and whole system are pretty old. Our radiators are full of sludge, but they heat up fine.

Any thoughts on what the problem could be?

Thanks so much!

OP posts:
PigletJohn · 22/12/2022 18:28

Yes, and I think (hope) it is sludge related

Turn the boiler off NOW and turn its thermostat to off or zero.

I fear the sludge has built up to a point where there is actually a blockage. This results in water not circulating properly and the bangs will be bubbles of steam forming, and collapsing, in the boiler.

It is pretty sure to need professional attention.

One thing that might perhaps help is if you buy a litre of Sentinel X400 sludge cleaner (about £15 from Screwfix or a DIY shed) and add it to the feed and expansion tank in the loft. Before doing that, tie up the ball valve float to prevent more water running into it and making it overflow, as this will wash the chemical out. Take a mug or ladle, a bucket and a sponge up with you, and bale all the mud out of the tank as you don't want that to run down into the pipes and worsen the problem. Then pour in the chemical.

If you then bleed the raduators, and let a bucket of water out, either from a bleed valve or from the drain cock if you know where it is, this will draw the chemical out of the tank and into the pipes. You can then untie the float to refill the tank, and tufn on the heating WITH THE BOILER THERMOSTAT STILL AT ZERO so that the water is circulating but not heated. Leave it circulating, cold, at least overnight. You can then cautiously turn up the boiler to minimum temp for a few minutes. If it bangs just as much, turn it off again.

This might do some good while you wait for a repair person. I imagine this is nearly the worst day of the year.

The chemical solution might not work, because if any pipe is totally blocked, water and chemicals cannot flow through it and soften it. If it does work, it will buy you a few weeks to get it sorted. After about 4 weeks the chemical loses its power and the sludge settles again.

It is very likely that a repair person will tell you you need a new boiler and/or a powerflush. It is essential that a new boiler is not fitted before the system has been cleaned or it will quickly clog.

The reason I said I hope it is sludge....

If you had an old electric immersion heater it might have a failed thermostat and be boiling the cylinder. This is extremely dangerous and you must turn off the immersion heater if the tap water gets too hot to hold your hand in. There have been some terrible fatal accidents which I do not wish to describe. Luckily a new thermostat or element can be fitted at modest cost. You may need an experienced old plumber if the cylinder is very old as the thread will be seized.

PigletJohn · 22/12/2022 19:03

p.s.

I am sorry this will be no comfort to you, but for the benefit of anyone approaching a similar problem...

An old open vented system will very often have sludge. Often you will not know it because it settles as heavy sediment, and when you bleed a radiator the water looks fairly clean.

A DIY chemical clean and drain is a relatively easy job, and the cost is trivial.

By removing old sludge it may prevent a blockage forming and save much greater expense and inconvenience.

For best results a Magnaclean or similar should also be fitted to capture particles circulating in future. This does need someone with plumbing ability.

It's not as good as a powerflush, but it will not do any damage (the chemical is very mild) and may save you needing one.

Good luck!

LemonChiffon · 22/12/2022 20:56

Thank you for your reply, although it's not the greatest news!

We never switch our immersion heater on so I don't think it can be your second scenario.

Can I ask though, if there was a blockage wouldn't this stop the radiators getting hot? All the radiators in the house are working fine. And this only happens after the heating has turned off - never while it is running. There are never any bangs apart from at this time.

I do think we need to get a power flush though. I am hoping that will fix the issue!

OP posts:
PigletJohn · 22/12/2022 23:07

I think the banging is happening because the pump stops while the iron boiler is very hot. modern practice is to run it for a few minutes after the boiler stops firing to take away residual heat.

sediment blockages can reduce or prevent water moving by thermosyphon (gravity circulation) but the banging is typical of sediment and heavy scale. A DIY chemical clean has a chance to loosen and shift it.

PigletJohn · 22/12/2022 23:10

p.s.

if you are paying for a powerflush, please get a Magnaclean or similar fiited at the same time, and get the installer to show you how to empty it. it is no harder than changing a hoover bag, and you will be gratified to see the amountof of dirt it collects.

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