butler sink with quartz worktop or any other lessons learnt with quartz fitting

[butlersink]

Does anyone have the join in their quartz behind the butler sink or is it nor recommended? Presume we would need to reinforce the space behind the sink to take the weight.

Any lessons learnt from having quartz worktop fitted? Anything you wish you had specified or queried at costings or templating? Such an expense and I dont want to have any regrets.

Thanks.

We have a L shaped run of units and the join is to the right hand side. Our worktop goes into the window ledge. We used a small, local, bespoke company and they sat the sink on a piece of granite/ quartz ( I can’t remember which it is) we have been very happy with it.
I can take a photo later if you like.

The run that our sink is in is too long not to need a join so what our worktop lot did was join either side of the sink so that we just had two small joins there instead of one big one further along on the full depth of the worktop. It works really well and you don’t notice the joins at all- as you can probably see from the photo where it’s entirely invisible 😂

thank you

@Redsquirrel5 - yes please can you post a photo

@NoParticularPattern - yes yours looks great but our sink is the shaws with very thick sides and curved corners so i think the work top is normally curved at the back corners also our tap sits on the quartz not the sink as it doesnt have the triangular piece in the centre of the sink.

Any one have any lessons learnt/things they would have done differently or specified at costing or templating for the best result with quartz??

We had quartz in previous house. Our joins were either side of the sink, because the tap hole was in the worktop. It’s much easier to repair the tap (eg fit a washer etc) that way - much smaller lighter bit of worktop to deal with.
If it doesn’t add significantly to the cost, you could even get an extra bit of the small sink section made in case of damage.
We had window cills in quartz to match. I’d not bother next time. We also had a shelf made as we had an annoying offcut anyway. If I did that again, I’d get both sides of it polished...,

@Saz12 i had never considered that about the taps - i presumed access would be from below. would you need to remove the worktop? I will definitely ask that question now as that could be a nightmare.

Why do you not like the quartz window cill? I had thought of it as it seemed practical but dont really like the look of it.

Is there anywhere else i need to specify is polished?

How about upstands - any issues with walls not being flat or any issues in general as i am not sure about the look of 20mm deep upstands

Our tap had to be removed from the worktop a it was leaking - thinking about it, I’m not sure why they couldn’t just get it from below!
The cills just weren’t my taste really - there’s no practical reason to have them or not.
The upstanding will have gaps between it and the wall if the wall isn’t smooth enough. A bead of mastic makes that invisible though (unless they’re miles out I suppose!).

Don't go for one of those soap dispensers that has its own hole in the quartz. I don't have one but family does and its not working very well. Not easy to replace as hole made is specific to that.
Also awkward to top up.
I spent ages choosing the edge profile on my quartz. Chose one you like, mine is shark nose and I love it. Some chip easier than others.
Bring samples of quartz into your kitchen and check it in night and day.
Get as high an upstand as you can. I wish mine was higher. Its a little narrow and I still haven't painted or tiled the wall above it and it looks crap with splashes. Cant decide what to do with the wall!

@Thirder Thanks
How high is your upstand? I think everyone has said 100mm so presumed that was only option. Do you know which profiles chip easiest? I had presumed I would just have a simple bevel - would that work with a curve?

I have a spray/hose thing so have 3 holes to be cut but it is not for soap!

this type of rinse thing so 3 holes to be cut in quartz behind butler sink

Not sure of my height, probably 100mm.but higher would look nicer.
Any angle with a sharp edge would chip. Such as a right angle or ogee, bevelled would be better to reduce the liklihood.
Love that tap.

small bevel edge was the plan thanks

Has anyone else got any tips or got upstand higher than 100mm?

Think about how much you want your overhang to be and double check this is as you asked for on the template - Gemini worktops really screwed us over on this point and wouldn’t remedy it.

Also think about the edge! I hadn’t really thought about all the options and was rushed into choosing the standard one which is fine but I do wish I’d given it more thought.

Thank you.

My overhang is fixed as the tall cupboards are set 1.5cm in front of the base units so that the worktop aligns exactly if it overhangs 1.5cm so that is non negotiable on my specification. I will ask them to bring examples of edges but I presume I will have small bevel. Just need to understand if that is ok around curve.

I will make a mock up of cut out around sink as I want to think about angles of curve in slow time not during templating. Should the worktop just overhang the butler sink into the sink all round by a couple of mm?

@Blueberrywitch I guess you wouldnt recommend Gemini then. I had a cheap quote from them but have decided to go with someone local despite so many good reviews. Was there pressure to leave a good review?

Any other tips before I spend a huge amount of money (for me), thanks

@Blueberrywitch I guess you wouldnt recommend Gemini then. I had a cheap quote from them but have decided to go with someone local despite so many good reviews. Was there pressure to leave a good review?

Sorry I am having a lot of trouble logging on and staying on mumsnet. I took the photo but couldn’t get back on. Sending from my iPad so don’t know if that is part of the problem anyway will now attempt to load and post photo

Yeah result.

Finally managed to get back on mumsnet and I have posted the photos.😀Hope your plans are going well. I spent a lot of time on pinterest🤣
Still love my kitchen nearly four years on.

I wouldn't bother having grooves cut for a draining board. I use an absorbent dish draining mat instead. The grooves (which I had in my old kitchen) don't work that well

I'm wondering how it all turned out Butlersink? Hopefully you're pleased? I'm just starting out with new worktops, so a useful thread, thank you 😀